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ronnie_rotten

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ronnie_rotten last won the day on September 29 2015

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About ronnie_rotten

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  1. The chassis leg is probably my biggest concern about the vehicle too. If I were looking to buy then rot is the first thing that turns me off a motor. Luckily I know a guy who is plenty capable of putting it right and giving the chassis a once over at the same time. I'm pretty resigned to it not selling for what I need to get for it without me doing the bits I don't currently have time for. Oh well, it's waited this long, another couple of weeks won't hurt!
  2. Yep. It's no doubt worth the effort to get it sorted and registered. I recon a good couple of days tinkering will sort out all the little bits, maybe spend a few quid on new door bolts to make rehanging them less miserable. I know a guy who will sort out any welding, and then I guess it's a case of whether to have it painted or not. If I wasn't embroiled in building a camper van which has to be done by April I could probably get down to it and have it all sorted before the classified ad expires! Gotta get it registered then I guess. I kinda knew that all along, really. I got an offer on it earlier. £2345, which I politely declined.
  3. Based on prices I've seen I recon tested tidied and registered it'd be worth 6-7k. There are some insane valuations out there which I've tried to ignore, but the average price of a 2002 110 on eBay (excluding 'csw' in the search term) is £4600 at auction and £9000 as a buy it now.
  4. @I opted for the 'overly honest' approach because I'm sick to death of viewing motors described as perfect only to find out they're sh!tters. I also wouldn't mind not showing it to a hundred people who are expecting something perfect for small money! And yes, I have to agree, testing and registering it again would be the key to selling it easily. I can see exactly why that would put people off. I'm not going to have chance to do anything to it until April really, but then I'll get stuck into it if it hasn't sold. I recon the price might creep up a bit then too. The pictures are a bit cack, cheap camera phone and it shows I guess! Thanks for the replies.
  5. Put this up for auction on eBay and it only got 2600, which I couldn't take for it. Is my head up my backside with the 4 grand price? Maybe I'm out of touch? The listing is pretty accurate, no surprises outside of what's mentioned. If you have a minute and nothing better to do, peruse the ad, value the 110 and let me know what you think. I'd appreciate the feedback. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/292038472379
  6. Can I just swap the banjo bolts for normal ones as a temporary fix until move it to the garage and take it apart properly?
  7. Good stuff. I really just want to get the thing so I can move it without filling the cooling system with oil! I don't suppose you happen to know what bolt/seal sizes I'll need to blank the outlet?
  8. Is it possible to essentially blank off and remove the oil cooler from a td5? Can blanking bolts or similar be used to remove a leaking cooler rad from inside the housing until a new one is sourced? What are the likely consequences in UK climate, is the oil cooler absolutely critical to the engine?
  9. ....that said, it should work once you've bent it to shape.
  10. Could I get a quick run down of symptoms of oil cooler failure? I've had a bit if a read around, but if you think you can sum it up in a nutshell, I'm all ears. Thanks
  11. It's a setback, but there are bigger problems in the world, so no use crying about it. My missus (she's an odd one) is of the opinion that rather than fit a used or reconditioned unit we'd be better buying a brand new one from Turner's and knowing it's going to be right from the start. It does mean waiting to get it back on the road, but I have a car to see me through until then. And peace of mind when it does get done.
  12. My suspicion is that the head has been welded before I bought it and it's just given way spectacularly. The engine bay is clean, which was one of the things that attracted me to the thing. In hindsight, too clean maybe... I've not seen a td5 with a blown gasket before but the sheer amount of foam makes me think it's most likely the head. Which is a bit of a kick in the goolies really.
  13. Now I think I know what the answer is here, but before I resign myself to driving a 'car' for months and squirreling away pennies for a an AMC...... Td5 2003 Discovery. 15p engine. Bubbles in the header tank. Loads of em. To the point of 'foaming' out of the top. Engine runs smoothly as ever. Radiator seems to remain icy cold down by the thermostat. No sign of oil in water, water in oil or dielel in sump. Heater only blows hot at higher revs, not idle. Loads of pressure in top hose and seemingly endless bubbles when the bleeder I'd opened. So, apart from what you are thinking, is the ANYTHING worth checking out before I face the inevitable. Cheers.
  14. Now I think I know what the answer is here, but before I resign myself to driving a 'car' for months and squirreling away pennies for a an AMC...... Td5 2003 Discovery. 15p engine. Bubbles in the header tank. Loads of em. To the point of 'foaming' out of the top. Engine runs smoothly as ever. Radiator seems to remain icy cold down by the thermostat. No sign of oil in water, water in oil or dielel in sump. Heater only blows hot at higher revs, not idle. Loads of pressure in top hose and seemingly endless bubbles when the bleeder I'd opened. So, apart from what you are thinking, is the ANYTHING worth checking out before I face the inevitable. Cheers.
  15. Its a 1998, so woild have that feeature. Is the passive immobiliser somthing to do with the 'spider'? Solenoid sounds like a nicer solution, I could live with that if it started. I ran the truck not too many moons ago but pillaged the good battery for the 110 and put a naff one on it, which a cold night seems to have finished off.
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