phil200tdi

Thanks Paul If there is no articulation to be gained then I think Gwyn Lewis' kit is a better option for me(tried and tested).. Cheers Phil

I cant find a decent image on their website (or anywhere else showing them set up...! But you can find this on Page 53 of this months LRO magazine...

Sorry that should Read MIB Flex Kit. Anyone got any comments on the front mount? The shock will now be outside of the spring which I would expect should give more articulation? I'll be using terrafirma +2" springs and +5" shocks so would have to go down the LT shock mount route (a la Gwyn Lewis etc) but these look interesting...

Anyone running these shock mounts? http://www.mcdonaldlandrover.co.uk/parts/mib-flex-kit-hardware.html Just spotted them in Lro and front mounts especially look interesting.. Pricey though.

Could just be one of those Landrover idiosyncrasies... but as always its buyer beware with no history/paperwork etc.

On the DVLA is says not marked as export which I'd have thought all ROW specs would have. The enquiry is complete The vehicle details for HX03 AWU are: Date of Liability 01 04 2012 Date of First Registration 01 04 2003 Year of Manufacture 2003 Cylinder Capacity (cc) 2495CC CO2 Emissions Not Available Fuel Type Heavy Oil Export Marker Not Applicable Vehicle Status SORN Not Due Vehicle Colour WHITE Vehicle Type Approval Vehicle Excise Duty Rate for vehicle 6 Months Rate £118.25 12 Months Rate £215.00

Just saw it on ebay whilst flicking through and immediately thought it looked dodgy. 03 plate Tdi Engine on td5 chassis and td5 dash, no history, loose location info and just a mobile number.. I wouldn't touch it. If someone on here with ties to the police feel it worth investigating further - so be it. Too many landies going missing round here to ignore something like this.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2003-LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-110-TDI-WHITE-LOW-LOW-MILEAGE-/170637052608?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item27bac2cac0

Hi Les Yep thought it would be something serious, the clutch is relatively new less than 10,000 miles (AP Racing). I won't attempt that job tho, too much for me. As a mobile mechanic, I don't suppose you want to do the job for cash? PM me if interested. Cheers Phil

Hi Les, Yep the pushrod was still attached to the fork, kept in place wist a small screw through the plastic clip. I can push the pushrod all the way in to the gap for the slave cylinder, there is a very slight resistance at the end of the movement (hence I have tried 7 or 8 times to fit the slave to see if this changes the solid pedal).. but as said before the arm feels like its not attached to anything at the other end and doesn't seem to be moving anything.. Symptoms in the first place were reduction in clutch pedal pressure - only operating at the bottom of the pedal travel. I had been topping up the master cylinder for a while which was curing the problem. First changed the master cylinder which promptly caused the slave to fail (leaking hydraulic fluid from the bellhousing drain plug. Then did the slave, everything was going fine bled the system fine but then the pedal was solid. Advice on from here was that it was the clip, so I bought one and then found the old clip was still attached. Refitted the slave a few more times and still no change so tried to give it some welly, blowing the clutch damper out the back of the car.. I had been moving the truck backwards and forwards on the drive way by starting in gear, could this have caused any trouble inside the clutch? Could it be a faulty slave cylinder? Cheers in advance.

Cheers for those documents, they are really useful. Unfortunately I have only changed the slave and master cylinder so was trying to diagnose the problem just incase I didn't need to split the gearbox... Bugger, sounds now like I do need to split them so will try to get a tow to my friendly mechanic - unfortunately thats 15 miles away!! Unless any mobile mechanics on the forum are keen to do this on my drive way for £££? I'm right between Aylesbury and Oxford - HP18..

Definately not fine.. the clutch pedal is solid. I thought coaxing it with the size 10s might help but instead the clutch damper blew off - literally flying 3 metres out the back of the vehicle.. now need a new one of those too. Is it possible for the damper to have been the problem? i just dont understand what the problem is. the clutch arm could literally be pulled to the end of the slave cylinder hole and pushed up and down as if it were not on a pivot or connected to anything at the other end..

Having now bought a new clip and split the slave from the Bell housing (again!!) I have found that the rod is still attached to the clutch arm.. however, there seems to be alot of play in the arm and it moves very freely (release bearing?). Any ideas what the problem may be? I am slowly coming to terms with the fact that it may be a job to pass to someone competent... cheers phil

Unfortunately after having stripped the holes and tried a number of times to refit the slave cylinder it seems the operating rod came loose and has now (subsequent to retapping the holes) left the clutch solid... On Les Hensons tech archive he says: "Be very careful about removing the slave - if it's tight on the operating rod, then there's a chance you will pull the rod out of it's clip inside the bellhousing". What do I do if this has happened, do I need to split the Engine/gearbox? Cheers Phil

Unfortunately after having stripped the holes and tried a number of times to refit the slave cylinder it seems the operating rod came loose and has now (subsequent to retapping the holes) left the clutch solid... On Les Hensons tech archive he says: "Be very careful about removing the slave - if it's tight on the operating rod, then there's a chance you will pull the rod out of it's clip inside the bellhousing". What do I do if this has happened, do I need to split the Engine/gearbox. Cheers Phil