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Everything posted by ashtrans

  1. I dont think they really caught on, from what I remember they were either too loose and slipped excessively like these or they were too tight and didnt slip at all, defeating the object.
  2. you can use this flywheel, adapter ring and LT77 bell housing but you have to redrill the flywheel and fit the 9.5" diameter clutch from the 4 cyl Dave
  3. the lock ring is skipping over the side gear engagement teeth when loaded, thats what making the ticking noise, Dave
  4. Hi, I suspect the arm that flicks the reverse idler gear has come off the gear and the lever then cant return, I think you will have to strip the box, Dave
  5. Hi all, a short note to make you aware we have recently taken delivery of two new LT230 ratios we have designed and made. One is 1.100 : 1, ideal for those with tuned TD5 Discos or tuned TDCi Defenders who 'want another gear' The other is 1 .301 : 1 ratio, good for those who have put bigger tyres on their Disco or TDCi Defender and find the 1.211 too high, or those with a TDi or TD5 Defender who want to gear it up a little but think the 1.2 ratio may make it a bit too high. please take a look and let me know what you think, New LT230 ratios the ratio calculator is quite useful to see the difference any changes will make : Ratio Calculator Dave Ashcroft Ashcroft Transmissions
  6. Hi, I dont know why it was clocked in Landrovers but it runs flat in most 2 wheel drive applications with a different sump, filter and oil pickup pipe, Dave
  7. Hi, if you are using the M57 and ZF 4HP22/24 see : https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/m57-bmw-engine-to-zf-kit.html Dave
  8. Do you have the short R380 or the ‘normal’ longer bellhousing 300 tdi type ?
  9. Hi, not so much backlash, it’s the crown wheel runout that may need checking Dave
  10. you can use the D1 or D2 disco box to fit our adapter to along with the defender top housing, forget the P38, very different, Dave
  11. Hi, once you have removed it, get it on a bench, remove the sump and give me a call and I will talk you through removing the gear, changing the intermediate bearings and dropping the gear back in, or you can stick it on a pallet and send it to me , if it just needs these 2 bearings, with new spacer and nut only about £75 parts and labour and about £60 return carriage, Dave 01582 496040
  12. Check for any front to back float in the intermediate gear, if it moves then the intermediate bearings have failed, quite a common failure
  13. Hi Richard, the LT77 is not the same as the oil pump is internal so cannot leak externally, Dave
  14. Hi, who was the collar from ? about 2 years ago we had some leaks which we found to be due to the poor surface finish on the collars so we now make our own with a much better surface finish, another area they can leak from is the oil pump, (often misdiagnosed as the mainsheet seal above) sometimes down the pump screws, sometimes around the outer O ring (can get cut if the pump does not go in true) and also sometimes from the gasket under the steel cover, always fit new, note the britpart pumps are good but the gaskets that come with them are not, we change them, Dave
  15. Hi, yes, ours are dearer but not £ 108 / corner, ours are £ 108 (inc VAT) for a pair, we don't have a huge margin on them, this is just what they cost with UK sourced EN24T and being machined in the UK, thanks, Dave
  16. Hi, not really, the diff is only locked if the viscous coupling has siezed, the rear is not locked to the drive constantly. think of it as the same as the LT230 in terms of it having a centre diff but instead of manually locking it, the VC does this by limiting the amount the diff can differentiate ie only allows a low speed difference in the diff side gears, (propshafts) Dave
  17. Hi, it's not too bad, the hardest bit is removing the rear mainshaft collar, then the rear housing can be removed and you can then get to the bearings, You will find a PDF of the R380 manual online : Manual here I would ensure you only use bearings marked 'RHP' or our 'NKE' ones, there are 3 other brands, all of which are rubbish, will fail in 3-4 months Dave
  18. may well be one of the 2 rear support bearings in the 5th speed housing, these are a common failure on the R380 which is why we do an upgrade by fitting bigger bearings, Dave
  19. These gears are the same as the 36D 1.211 gears,
  20. Yes this will fit fine and yes the 1.211 are termed 'Q' gears for quiet, these have the fine tooth, 38 tooth input gear, quieter but maybe a bit weaker than the earlier ones with fewer fatter teeth.
  21. Hi, the 36D set will drop straight in place of the 22D sxG, the 15A won't, different length input gear and different dog teeth on high gear and roller bearings on the intermediate gear Dave
  22. Hi, whats the serial number of the 1.4 ? Dave
  23. Hi, we made I think 3 of these kits which used a 15mm adapter plate, 4.6 4HP24 with the big converter and with the adapter plate they ended up the same length as the 2.5 diesel ZF box so the engine stayed in the same place, I think a good M57, big converter, 4HP24 and compushift to control it would be a good setup, the compushift has advanced significantly recently, we can now set both lock and unlock tables in each gear, so it can shift 1-2, then the converter (TCC) can soon lock, then shift 2-3 and unlock, then lock etc, i.e. use the converter like a splitter gear, with these tables the TCC is no longer a fixed value at X speed, you can set it to lock for example just in 4th and at low throttle (MAP) lock earlier and at high MAP lock later if you are nailing it. Dave
  24. Hi, its not so much we don't know, more like this is not an exact science which is why you can't find any set figures, different engines with different converters will all have different stall speeds. As a general rule of thumb, small converter means a higher stall speed but you can also adjust the internal vane angle to change the speed, this is useful if you want a lower stall speed but you can't fit a bigger converter in the bellhousing ie a tuned P38 diesel, has the small converter but the medium one won't fit. i am also not a great fan of the 'stall test' this involves putting it in drive, foot hard on the brake and then foot on full throttle, even for a few seconds anyone with any mechanical sympathy will cringe at the strain the engine and gearbox are put under and the heat generated is considerable even for a short period. the stall speed is important to a vehicle driving well, too high and it's all revs and no go, ie a waste of fuel, excessive revs, excessive noise and you rev past the early torque of a tuned engine, but too low a stall speed and the engine will just bog down and won't rev, ie you need to let it Rev enough to get onto the turbo to get the torque up and get moving, Thanks, Dave
  25. Hi, it was us that made these but was very hard to measure their effectiveness and thus justify the cost Hi Nige, the GKN hubs were a good idea but in reality we found then very hard to setup, if the preload was too loose they just slipped and burnt out and if too tight they didn't 'give' at all, a very fine line Dave
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