ashtrans

reverse is made in 2 parts and beam welded together, I would think the weld has broke, ie it selects fine but has no drive, the cone clutches in the GKN overdrives also fail which loose reverse which is why I asked, if you lose 5th as well then the layshaft has sheared Dave

Hi, A couple of questions : Do you have an overdrive ? Have you also lost 5th ? Dave

we are on it and have a plan !! will post up soon, Dave

Are these all auto ? I can't see any manuals on auto trader or eBay, I guess the auto would be electronic and will add a lot of complexity, The manual would be much easier but it may be too long for a 90 if run divorced / remote, Dave

Hi Michelle, This text from ARB refers to the design change from the old ARB design RD56 to the newer RD128 which on the rover design was about 5 years ago, ARB will tell you this design change was done so they could supply an improved product, I suspect it was because the patent on the RD56 ran out so they made a new patent on the RD128 design (which improved something which never failed anyway) We sold lots of RD56's and we sold lots of RD128's, both designs have their own problems and in my eyes the new one was no better, they just had different shortfalls, Feel free to ignore my thoughts as I am obviously biased but we don't see these issues with our lockers, Dave

It's a Detroit locker, due the the way the dog clutches work internally they will add backlash, They are not indestructible, the disengagement teeth inside fail then they don't unlock, Dave

they are cast and regularly crack, ours are billet EN24T and don't !! Dave

long shot I know ! any ideas ? preferable that speaks english, my Turkish is a little rusty ! thanks Dave

Hi Nige, some do, some don't, it depends if the 24 has the big converter or not, the early ones were big, later medium diameter like the 4.0, if you can let me know the box codes I can be more specific, Dave

The 2 wheel drive LT77 mainshaft is totally different, the one in the photo is only 4 wheel drive, The thread is just for assembly tooling, Dave

You will have to dry sump the Autobox next ! Dave

not necessarily, if it was driving OK and it just needs a mainshaft swap it's £ 200 + V all in, Dave

Hi, if you wanted to keep the cost down you could steam clean it and drop it in for a repair, the cost would depend on whats required but this is usually cheaper than a full rebuild, Dave

Hi Landy Novice, Firstly I am sorry to hear that this unit has had problems within 12 months of it being purchased, It is unusual to wait over 12 months before notifying us of a problem, but if you would like us to look at it I would ask you to send it in for inspection and I will have a look at what has happened, Our usual policy if a unit has a problem after a 12 month period would be to offer an 'at cost repair' , this translates to us doing the labour free of charge and charging for only the carriage and our cost of the parts which typically is £100-£150 + v, We get all kinds of 'warranties', I am not suggesting your problem is not genuine but some we have had are : " I bought a 3K auto kit for my defender from you and now it only does 20 mph, you have ruined my landrover, I want my money back", I down tools, drive 150 miles to see this irate customer and find he has it in low range, I don't even get an apology, " my gearbox has broken and its only just over 12 months old" , actually sir you bought that 6 years ago, sorry but that's an average lifespan, " my diff has broken, I've only had it 6 months" the bearing have failed as you are running it on a mixture of mud and water, " my transfer case is stuck in diff lock" that's because you didn't lock it when you were off road and have blown the centre diff, Don't get me wrong, sometimes parts fail and sometimes we build it wrong but a good 50% of 'warranties' are fitting issues/ misdiagnosis, We do take customer care seriously and I always try to put myself in the customers shoes and give them the benefit of the doubt where possible, I don't think we would be where we are now if we didn't treat customers fairly, Dave Ashcroft

Hi Daan, yes James is right, it's a combination of them being quite expensive and not a fast seller but also 2 other factors, although they were quite a lot of money, they were not particularly profitable considering the amount of time that went into them and also I would struggle to find the huge amount of time that would be required to produce another batch. If we did do another batch I would make quite a few changes which would make them cheaper but it's still a lot of time and money to gamble. Bit of a shame really but I can't do everything ! Bill, we looked at existing ring and pinions but there are many factors to consider when designing a comercial product and using an existing R & P would mean other compromises, ie wouldn't fit a stock locker, special drive flange, and pinion bearings etc, and the only reason to use an existing would be to buy off the shelf different ratios but in reality 98% of the target market will want stock ratios and we deemed it not worth the additional work/cost/compromise for the other 2% Dave Dave

Hi Bill, Jim was running our original prototype F9 axles which were built approx 3 years ago and were built using the True High 9 4.11 gears and a modified ARB RD99, when running the 4.11 gears we found that the needle support bearing on the end of the pinion was failing abnormally quickly, I think 2 or 3 were fitted in the rear over a 2.5-3 year period, I attribute this to the high side loads from the tooth angles on these Hi9 gears, just before the KOH event, Jim wanted the ratios swapped to 4.86, again from Hi9 in the US, the diffs came in and again the needle roller bearing was a mess and the bore in the casing that it sits in was also a little damaged, the new gears were built up with new bearings etc. The first failure of the ARB journal bearing I would put down to high loading due to both the tooth angles, ie driving on the coast side of the gears but also one of the mods we had to do to the ARB was to pull one of the journal bearings in 20mm which would increase loading, The second failure was a classic tooth off which I would strongly suspect was because the gears came out of mesh due to the needle roller bearing collapsing, again related to the Hi9 tooth profile. Whilst I doubt we will be making more F9 axles the whole experience was a big learning curve, and it has allowed us to use some of this knowledge on other products such as the new replacement diff we have designed for the 110 post salisbury rear, for this we have designed a hypoid ring and pinion with 1.5" low pinion offset, new bolt in housing, longer pinion to pull the pinion bearings apart and it uses a stock Rover (not P38) diff centre, air locker, ATB etc and you can use the stock shafts or our HD ones, I am not sure we would have done this without the knowledge we accumilated when doing the F9's. Dave

From our LT230 FAQ's : I have checked the adjustment but it won't come out of diff lock. This is often reported after recent off roading, the centre diff is there to allow the props to turn at different speeds when cornering to stop drivetrain wind up, the speed difference is quite small and the centre diff gears are only designed to cope with these low speeds. If you are off road on snow or ice and you get wheelspin from one front wheel, what will happen is the rear prop will not be moving, the front will thus be going double speed, this means the small centre diff gears will be spinning like fury and after a matter of only a few seconds the plant gears will friction weld to the cross pins and the gears will fail etc, the result of this is that the diff will then behave as if it is locked as it in jammed with gear debris. The can happen if the driver forgets to lock the centre diff on a low traction surface or due to incorrect linkage adjustment, Please note this failure is not covered under warranty as we deem this driver error, the diff will never fail for any other reason other than excessive spinning, in which case the diff should have been locked by the driver. Dave

Hi, yes either option will work, 1) use the P38 R 380, the diesel will be a type 65A (first 2 digits of the serial number) ideally you want the stronger suffix K or L, you will have to change : mainshaft rear casing selector rail & yolk top shifter housing 2) use a defender R 380, TDi or TD5 (type 56A or 68A) note all 68A's are the stronger suffix K or L and change : bellhousing, 2 part type pinion shaft, all are 22 teeth so will fit the layshaft OK, Dave

You will have to change the rear Ali casing, Also some shifter parts if its going in a defender

Hi, I have managed to get some this morning so if you still need one let me know, dave

Hi, just the pinion and bellhousing assuming you are not changing from long to short stick etc, Dave

If the disco serial number ends in G then yes it will fit, if H then it won't Dave

No, 380 is about 30mm shorter, Dave

sorry to 'out anorak' you ! but if it's a 1999 it will be a 1.211 ratio and you can only fit the 1.410 if you also change the front prop flange, hi/lo lever and plug the speedo drive, you will also not be able to fit the low range switch in the front housing as it's not drilled and tapped on the 1.410 Dave