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paradigm shift

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About paradigm shift

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  • Website URL
    http://www.landroverads.co.uk

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  • Location
    Ventnor, Isle of Wight
  1. paradigm shift

    Tips for racing a Defender

    Autosolos have limits on the length of straights etc to keep speeds down and allow folk to compete at an entry level motorsport in road legal cars and without race licences - 1st and 2nd gear usually, so I think using the low box might give me more options for finding a 'right' gear for some awkward mid speed corners. The emphasis is on being controlled and smooth, which is where I think my technique can improve and there's a lot of satisfaction to be had from hustling the 110 around a tight course. Never gonna beat the Imprezas, but it's good fun chasing the lower powered hatchbacks and learning a bit more about car control. I've done their tarmac events in my kit car and Ford Puma, but the loose surface is brilliant too.
  2. paradigm shift

    Tips for racing a Defender

    Here's the link to the vid - this was my first run of the day, so not the smoothest and about 5 seconds slower than my fastest, but it gives you an idea of the kind of speeds involved. Nothing too serious without some common sense applied :-)
  3. paradigm shift

    Tips for racing a Defender

    Thanks guys, the 110 will stay absolutely standard. It's my daily and this is just a bit of fun. If I was going to the trouble of building a race car, a diesel 110CSW wouldn't be a sane choice of starting vehicle. Photo two is a tad misleading - that section was across some track ruts so the wheel is off the ground as it had just come off the top of a bump, rather than any impending doom rolling over. Apart from the one exciting moment mentioned above where I slid downhill (learnt that limit and not to be repeated) I'm not pushing so far that I'd expect it to fall over. The centre of gravity is still reasonably low, it's just the springs let the body roll around all over the shop. Cynic-al I think you're right about the line and accelerating out of corners rather than barrelling in to them. Dampers were new OEM the other year so work reasonably well. Left foot braking makes some sense, but I don't think my feet are disciplined enough for that without some practice! I won't win anything, but if I can have fun and feel like I've driven well and safely then I'm happy. There's a nice bit of aerial footage from a quadcopter which I'll dig out and post up later if I can find it.
  4. paradigm shift

    Tips for racing a Defender

    My local car club (IOWCC) runs an unsealed surface autosolo championship and for a giggle I took my completely standard 300TDI 110 Station Wagon along with the sole aim of not coming last. Ended up coming 22/28 (beating a few fwd hatchbacks) on a grass field. Had a complete blast and went back for more - 18/21 at the next grass event and 27/31 on gravel. Mission accomplished in terms of having fun and pushing my skill and bravery to the limit. I'm never going to win with the worst power to weight ratio out there but there are a couple of things I think I can do better to get more out of the Land Rover. So, some tips on the best way to handle the following would be great... Bravery (or lack of) - I'm not going to push corners that hard as it's my daily driver with no safety gear fitted. It's hard to gauge some of the corners with the excessive body roll and at the relatively low speeds involved the tyres do tend to grip rather than let the car slide. So far I've only had one really scary moment where the back end came round on a downhill corner with a lot of adverse camber, which I'd like to never ever repeat. Managed to steer into it and gently stop the slide that time. Tight turns - Occasionally the course has a tight loop around a single cone and at the last event I barely had enough space to get round. Is there any way of reliably getting it round something tightly that you might handbrake turn in a regular car? I've had it oversteer neatly through 90 degrees or so when shifting from 2nd to 1st around a tight corner if enought weight is over the front axle from braking. Low box - Any reason not to use low box? On the last event there were a few corners where the top of 1st was a bit twitchy but 2nd would have been too long and I felt I wasn't as stable as I could have been. Perhaps using low box 2nd/3rd/4th would mean I could find a nicer gear to be in. The Land Rover's staying absolutely standard, so any improvement needs to come from my skill increasing - I'm just keen to see what I can get out of the old girl without breaking anything.
  5. paradigm shift

    Category B Driving Licence questions

    Apologies for resurrecting an ancient thread, but it's first result on Google and after I'd wondered about my 12 seater 110 I came across it, before coming across the gov.uk page which has a rather crucial exemption so I thought I'd update the thread with recent information in case anyone else does the same. See https://www.gov.uk/driving-a-minibus as any vehicle able to carry over 8 passengers is a "minibus". Specifically the section regarding usage being "not for hire or reward". Essentially, if it is private, social use and you are over 21, having held your licence for 2 years you are able to drive a vehicle with up to 16 passenger seats. https://www.gov.uk/vehicles-you-can-drive is a surprisingly decent little tool given that it's on a government website!
  6. paradigm shift

    Door top seal retainer brackets

    Thanks UdderlyOffroad, some standard angle it is then - will be covered up by the seal itself anyway, so hardly an issue.
  7. paradigm shift

    Door top seal retainer brackets

    Just replaced my 110 CSW roof with a 110 van roof, but of course have a couple of large gaps above the rear side doors as there is no bracket for the door seal to slot onto. They appear to be bolted and also crimped onto the roof - I'd rather not grind them off my CSW roof as it's perfectly serviceable and will be going on ebay, but I can't find part numbers for the brackets. I'm wondering if just a bit of regular angle with some holes drilled in the right places wouldn't be less hassle and cheaper...?
  8. In a bit of a dunce moment, I've binned the rusty old tailpipe with the hanger bracket still stuck on it before finding a replacement. I've been told that part number ESR95 is what I need but it doesn't look anything like what I remember taking off or what's left on my 110. I've got a horizontal plate with an oval hole in it which I remember a bolt going through with a rubber bush on it, and I believe it attached to the exhaust with a U-bolt. Any ideas on part numbers?
  9. paradigm shift

    Clutch problem

    Yes, they're still attached.
  10. paradigm shift

    Clutch problem

    mm just did that and it all looked alright. suspecting the bearing may not be sitting on the fork properly or something.. guess it's coming off again! thanks for the input guys
  11. paradigm shift

    Clutch problem

    is anyone able to say how much free play the slave rod should have? because mine is moving back and forth i guess nearly 3 inches and disappearing almost into the housing before it contacts with anything which sounds like the fork hitting the back of the housing.
  12. paradigm shift

    Clutch problem

    That's what I thought at first, but nothing's leaking from the slave or master..
  13. paradigm shift

    Clutch problem

    I hadn't had the box off, the clutch bite was just gradually disappearing in to the floor so I suspected a cracked fork. Fork seems fine, but I guess the bearing could have slipped off the fork previously and on refitting the box?
  14. paradigm shift

    Clutch problem

    With the gearbox on, the fork has no resistance and the slave pushrod can move backwards and forwards easily which is obviously not right. Thought I might be suffering from a bent clutch fork, but after taking the gearbox off (only enough to check the fork) everything seems fine. At a bit of a loss and think I might be overlooking the obvious. Anybody got any ideas?
  15. paradigm shift

    Rear knocking

    This afternoon the 110 developed a loud knocking from what sounds like the rear nearside wheel. It speeds up as the vehicle does and can shake everything around 30ish. Strangely though it goes away when you put power down and accelerate. I have consulted my Haynes which suggests a worn hub bearing.. can anyone confirm this or suggest what it may be?
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