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Getting Comfortable
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About The_Menace

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  1. I can confirm that having looked I appear to have a 0:1 compression ratio engine as i can see a 0 but cant find the other half to make it an 8 for the life of me. I will go with 8:1 plugs. Thanks for the advice.
  2. Thanks i know it is square but couldnt see a stamping, guess i need to look a little harder.
  3. Hi All, My "new" S3 has an ex-military Lightweight engine fitted (engine number 951xxxxx) when I look at plugs they seem to mention 7:1 and 8:1 compression module plugs. Which do I need? Thanks Rob
  4. My new RTV trialler, to be tidied and painted when i get time.
  5. I think I need to adjust the fast idle on the choke of my Series III. On cold start the engine fires and idles fine with your foot a bit on the accelerator. The first part of the choke seems to make no difference to revs until you pull it most of the way in which case the mixture seems to get too rich and kills the engine. It seems that the fast Idle setting on the choke does not open the throttle enough to idle fast. Any ideas how to adjust this on a weber 34ICH carb? Is it a case of making the link to the actuator longer?
  6. So is that 1/2" more on the outside , meaning 1/2" less on the inside as offset is usually measured from outside of nave plate to outer rim?
  7. I have just bought a series 3 88" for trialling (RTV) and have been advised to change the front rims from the standard SWB rims to improve the turning circle by having a smaller distance, inner side of nave plate to inner edge of rim. I have been advised the following: 1 ton rims - Perfect but expensive 8 spokes - better but offset varies modulars - same as 8 spokes LWB rims - i have had mixed reports. Can anyone shed any light on the difference between LWB and SWB rims as far as the offset goes, I will be fitting 750r16 tyres. Thanks Rob
  8. The_Menace


    I think they can handle it like this one: The Old Dog And if it means getting things paid I would do it. Rob
  9. I have the following symptoms on a 1984 3.5 V8 90: Charge light comes on as normal before starting engine, When I start the engine it goes dim but as you rev the engine it gets brighter. According to the bible it is the main output diode that has gone open circuit. Is this something that 1. I can do anything about (without complete new Alternator) 2. My normal landrover garage can deal with or do i need a specialist auto-electrician to refurb the alternator. also why does my alternator not look like any of the ones in the manual Any advice is appreciated Rob
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