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orange rover

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  1. bringing this up again - anyone knows the number for the anti burst door locks? cheers spec
  2. thanks - looked at the boat system. don't necessarily want (another) electric box on the truck, so maybe theres a easier solution? heard that one can use two diodes after each alternator preventing the electricity to flow back to the alternator. nounting on the td5 doesn't look to complicated cheers cheers spec would like the second alternator also for redundancy.
  3. it would be, but on the td5 the vacuum pump is on the alternator so it needs to stay also would like a alternator that sits on top of the engine so that it gets less mud and lasts a bit longer. looking for another 12v, no 24v planned
  4. want to install a second alternator on the td5. best place place would be the location of the aircon compressor. anyone done it? how do i connect two alternators to the vehicle electrics?` cheers spec
  5. hi david, do you have a picture of the 90 degree connector? the one that will screw into the calliper and connect to a braided hose pn the other? cheers spec
  6. david - thanks for your answer and email. we have stainless hose from the t all the way to the end of the axle. for protection, the stainless sits in a u shaped profile on top of the axle. we need the last bit, standard connection to a stainless and then 90 degree to a calliper. we prefer to not use one long special hose so that we can replace using standard LR hoses in case of failure. will have exact measurements tommorrrow. still wondering whether 90 degree bend or banjo ist the better choice. how does the 90 degree connector to stainless look like. is it a tube nut with a bent tube or a solid 90 degree connector. would prefer not to have copper tube if at all possible. cheers
  7. i've routed mine so that the chances of something getting caught are very low. rear, directly to a frame, front not straight up but sidewards on top of axle and then on top of trailing arm. has worked well.
  8. looking for brake connectors with a 90 degree bend that screw into a defender rear caliper. idea is to route the rear brake hose directly from the caliper out of harms way to the top of the axle. the rest of the pipe has already been relocated there, just looking for the last piece. anyone knows where to get connectors like that? cheers spec
  9. i jused the arb heavy duty airline to connect to the diff and then went 6 mm from there. http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/p191c12...y-air-line.html they are quite expensive for what they are but good idea to get rid of the plastic hose near the axle imho anyhow - i snapped that various times the other side of the arb heavy duty airline will accept a standard 6mm connector
  10. looking for the oil cooler adaptor plate for the r380 aka 'Housing - transmission thermostat, V8" FTC2687 anyone got any idea where to get one from, quite expensive from the main dealer. does it actually have a thermostat inside? cheers spec
  11. i found the part number of the felt strips, but don't see where 12 of the felt strips would go. from the picture i would have thought 1 at the top for each window. cheers spec
  12. just took the first trip wirth the new series doors and military door tops. i like them - you can keep the back window open and branches don't hit you BUT they make a horrible rattling noice weith the glas hitting the frame while driving. any cure for that? the other problem i found with the series doors is that the have no downward support throug the hath mechanism when closed, so the doors move donwards in the back when driving. so i needed to readjust them a couple of times. cheers spec
  13. P38 are supposedly zf and should be stronger than disco II i've seen someone using one from a nissan - seem to fit quite nicely
  14. i think the discussion is less fox vs OME but coilovers against standard setup. i am in the process of converting to coilovers and find that it has many advantages compared to the standard setup. coilover springs are available in all lenghts and rates at very fair prices (i paid 60 a piece for my eibachs) and when using 2 springs on top of each other one can realize a truly progressive setup. furthermore coil overs solve all the issues with springs leaving their seats and bending sidewards in articulation. furthermore one can adjust ride height and sag quite easily. if you look at the various coil over shocks available you'll find setups that don't necessarily come much more expensive than a good standard setup. one fox 2.0 coilover 7/8 shaft is about 300 sterling + 120 for two springs, not too bad for a very good setup. if one is prepared to pay just over 1000 sterling a corner then you get one coilover + one external bypass a corner which is pretty much as high end as you can go. the major difference between standard and coil overs is that fitting involve quite a lot of fab work, whereas a standard setup is a bolt on job. of course one shouldn't forget that using a standard setup in racing will most likely require dual shocks, and that again will result in some fab work, especially up front since none of the bolt on turrets are any good to my experience. IMHO - if one is prepared to do the fab, coil overs are the way to go. cheers spec
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