Warthog

Hi, I'm running a 300tdi and not using the alternator in its standard location. I have been told that there is a dayco drive belt that is available to bypass it. Does anyone know the part number? Cheers

Point 3 on: http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/ctrp_0806_dirt/viewall.html It would seem Ackerman has its benfits aswell as drawback.

X-Raptor The term "raptor" is derived from the Latin word rapere (meaning to seize or take by force)

Coming from a Conventional Milling POV. No NC... Yes i would expect to cut the Keyway in once pass. Plunge to depth and feed to end location in one hit. This i would do for Keyways upto 25mm. If larger then i would do 2 passes. One with a smaller slot drill and then finish with the specific slot drill size. (I dont neccesarily follow that 2 pass rule, its what you sense will be a comfortable option for your Mill size and material type etc) (General rule of thumb is that a Keyway wont be pass the depth of 1/2 the cutter diameter) Slots drills will produce Keyways to within tolerance range, using this procedure. If you do repeat passes, you find the keyway will have poor surface finish and have a step finish on the edges. This will impede key fit and fitting. Unless you you have NC and do as said above. Milling is all about Job set-up, and tool selection. Get those 2 areas nailed and the cutting procedure is a breeze. Having been trained up on the HSS tooling. I praise it for its value for money and availabilty. IMHO, Carbide tooling is good though but not essential. Yeah you gotta use Suds, but even with carbide, start smashing of lumps of material at speed, your work piece wil be scorchio!! Hope that helps? There will be differing opinions on how to do stuff, im sorta trying to see it from a home workshop scenerio. Where your tooling will be second hand and need to be cheap. What mill you running? Bridgeport.....?

No point really(in most applications) Even if you are just drilling a hole. Set your tool offsets on the DRO, put the slot drill in and move to your location. Plunge to depth and cut. Cant see any reason why you would take a single action routine and add Centre Drill and then Drill to the routine?

HSS 2 or 3 flute slot drills can be used to create perfectly acceptable slots and holes. Using a twist drill generally is just adding another tool change into the equation. (Wasting time on conventional Mill) All the keyways i cut are milled using a 2/3 flute slot drills. (Always start with a plunge cut to depth to start the keyways, slot drills dont like edge cuts)They produce good holes and keyways within acceptable tolerances. Material removal is paramount for cutting keywaysand slotting requirements. An end mill will/generally choke up if used on keyways and slots (Poor surface finish and tool wear) whereas a 2/3 flute slot drill will clear more easily. End mills are the generally for facing and edge cutting. Long Series Hss slot drills and Ends, however are a pain in the arse......But a neccesary evil. Carbide tip tooling is good, but not the be all and end all. HSS tooling can be picked up pretty cheap in comparison. In all fairness, a Couple of HSS Endmills say a 20mm and 50mm Dia. With a few slot drills and some twist drills will see the conventional miller in his shed good for most applications (Drill, Slot, Surface and Edge profiling) Hope that there is some sense in what i have written?

Cheapest i have found was just over £100 for "As New, surplus stock" 11/16 16tpi UNS tap. Not cheap Buggers know its important! The right hands about £25

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Professional-9-Piece-Hose-Clamp-Plier-Removal-Set-/120705333533?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c1a99391d This should cover it

Sell the little Compressor and put the money towards a bigger 2nd Hand Air Compressor. Then go out and buy a Budget Rattle Gun

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MACHINE-COOLANT-10L-/370140312846?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item562e14f50e

Spot on, that site Steve. Cheers for the quick response. Found the parts within seconds. ATB Mark

Can anyone identify this quick release coupling and fitting? Came of a jet wash lance i have. Been hunting around the www to see if i can identify it, but no specific match so far? Can find QR Couplings but none relate to the shape on the fitting? The QR Coupling has lost a seal or something and when attaching the fitting, water comes out all around the QR Coupling. Cheers for any advice Mark

If the vehicle isnt goin to see mud? Then surely just a performance itercooler would be best? If its gonna be chucked in mud? The intercooler is just gonna be jammed with Sh^T and the electric fan will be very hard pushed to be of benefit

Thats what i thought, But Not according to PayPal (international call rate ) Apparently because of the dispute. The funds are in "Holding" To release the funds to the seller, i would have to close the dispute. For the seller to refund me, he needs to contact Paypal to authorise a refund. the refund will also cancel the dispute. I have now left it in the Sellers hands to do the refund, I hope...

Now im sure someone can help me out here, as we have all used Paypal i bet Started a dispute through Resolution Centre on PayPal, for non receipt of goods. The seller was a bit late on shipping and had no response from the texts i gave. The amount i had paid was substantial, so i thought this would be the best way to get the sellers attention. However the item turned up 2 days later and the seller was sorry for the delay. But upon fitting the item, found that it was faulty and not as described. So called up the seller and he was happy to take the item back. So booked a courior and now in the process of it being shipped back to him. I have informed him that its on its way and when he has received the item and is happy. Could he refund me the money through Paypal? However, the seller has told me Paypal have taken the money already? Now im sure that paypal are "Holding" the monies until the dispute is closed, Correct? Am i correct (not been a seller and had a dispute and need to refund) in thinking all that the seller needs to do is. Go to his account, log into the dispute. Select an option to refund monies and thats it job done? I have my monies back and the dispute will automatically close, Correct? If anyone can correct me on the proccess, please do. As im sure i'll be explaining this to him at some point. Cheers Mark

I stand corrected

Belleview 8000 The Daddy to the Warn8274 Do a web search and thers info out there on them. Also came in a 6000 model too.

Have a 150Ltr 14CFM Ingersoll Rand Air compressor (second, maybe third hand??) 5.5hp motor 13bar max, usually have it run up to 8 bar and kick back in at 6bar Shot blasting takes a lot of air With my set-up, stripping old paint off a steel rim became very time consuming. An axle casing has taken a couple of hours Spray painting works o.k, Depending on atmosphric temperature and length of use. Moisture build up became a concern, in both applications. Use of an inline "Coalescing Filter" helped with this problem. Air drying unit would be ideal. Air tools, only use an impact for beasting the odd bolt, Works well. Air tools such as Disc and Die Grinders, and other rotary abrasive tools make the compressor work hard. You need to take the approach of "Do a bit, wait. Then do a bit more" IMHO the air compressor i have is adequate. Hope that helps?

Mig with "Pulse" (not spot time) function on works well with lighter gauge material. Worth a look into... ATB Mark

Cheers Steve, Will give a few places a call. Funny thing is, not know the exact name of this type cylinder/pump? Make for entertaining conversation over the phone :-)

Cheers Guys, But no one has a supplier to recommend then?

Looking for a supplier for the Air Pump that sits on the side of an air operated jack? Like the ones in the linky: http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/asthyd01.html I may well have the in-correct name for the item though? Cheers

Those were the only numbers I could source over the www?

Pretty sure the list below, is all the parts/numbers to retro fit series door to a Defender? But if anyone can confirm these items? Mucho Gratis Hopefully help anyone else who is thinking of fitting the series doors too? FF005084 Button for door lock handle LH Vehicle: Series IIA/III £4.00 FF005085 Button for door lock handle RH Vehicle: Series IIA/III £4.00 FF005872 Door handle LH Front - ANTI-BURST type no barrelkey Vehicle: Series IIA/III £27.50 FF005873 Door handle RH Front - ANTI-BURST type no barrelkey Vehicle: Series IIA/III £27.50 FF005875 Striker Plate for Door handle LH Front - ANTI-BURST type Vehicle: Series IIA/III £9.50 FF005876 Striker Plate for Door handle RH Front - ANTI-BURST type Vehicle: Series IIA/III £9.50 FF005874 Lock Barrels with 2 Keys 2 locks - for ANTI-BURST type handles Vehicle: Series IIA/III £5.05 SET

Genuine Mech Parts http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/c82/mechanical-spares/0.html Bowmotor: http://www.dborc.co.uk/goodwinch/ Splined drive gear needed to upgrade to modern motors: http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/p271c82/0/multi-splined-gear.html