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    "Your Interests" You do realise this is an off roading forum don't you?
  1. DirtyD's about right- the diff casings between cruisers and landrovers are about the same, but cruiser have hypoid diffs with the diff nose at the top of the case. the front half shafts and CVs in an 80 series are definitely stronger than rover stuff- there's not many rover CVs that will take a 2 tonne vehicle, nose down in a rocky ravine, on full lock, with 35" MTs, with the locker in, and a huge bootful of power in reverse- the cruiser has done it time and time again (and don'tforget the engine is a 4.2tdi so not exactly underpowered). And these are standard axles straight out of the factory. In the states you can also source all sorts of different ratios without trouble. They are in my opinion a better design than the rover axle in terms of layout of seals, size of stub axle, and strength of drive member- certainly they tend to have far fewer seized bolts, or rusty internals. Having said that, the locker isn't as positive as an air locker, the fronts of 80s don't like running in reverse (being hypoid and all that- hence they are weaker than the frankly mahoosive rear- not uncommon to have a set of diffs with the front diff with tripped teeth) and when parts do break you either end up with very very very cheap stuff which is only marginally better than the rover stuff or you end up having to buy longfields. To boot the cruiser axles seem to wear quicker than the rover stuff- certainly most cruisers will star to get clicking cvs at the 130-140k point (althouh they often go on to do 200k miles without breaking). having said all that, on a pound/strength analysis they are good value- with lockers, good strength, 4.11 ratios as standard and value for money parts (CVs and shafts excepted) they certainly aren't a bad choice. Oh and i just happen to have a spare pair of cruiser CVs if anyone needs a pair - as mentioned the front has a stripped crownwheel!
  2. yo don't need a GPS Camera what you need is: that can record track data at a per second level One GPS unit One Camera with EXIF info One Laptop One clever piece of software basically you plug the GPS unit and the Camera into the laptop, and the laptop syncs the time of each of the three pieces of hardware to the nearest 1/10th of a second or so. you then just start the GPS unit to create a track. Then every time you take a photo, the camera records the exact time you took it. When you've finised for the day you re-sync the camera, GPS and laptop. The software pulls the GPS track along with the time stamped photos and compares the time to the GPS track to work out exactly where you were- it can then write the GPS data to the EXIF info. Its amamzingly simple in practice, and works really really well and is no more work then just normally downloading your photos from your camera. I used it with an in -car PC wihlst travelling and used the car GPS as the track recorder, but you can happily just a handheld portable GPS device in a pocket! once i get home i will see if i can find the piece of software!
  3. will cost you a huge amount of money to keep one of these in fine fettle. has 6 injectors- at 10 years old they will all need replacing at some point (at least every person i know, including me, who has owned a 330d has had to do this), and this costs at least £190/injector. They should be considered consumable parts- and considering the pressure they run under thats not surprising! the turbo isn't lke an old 300tdi turbo, but a modern turbo under very high performance- mine lasted 80k miles over 160k miles and cost getting on to £700 to replace on each occasion. The engine on top will cost you a pretty penny just to purchase. As to the performance curve- for low speed work it might struggle- it wasn't very powerful low down, bt really came on boost strongly. Would work really well offroad attached to an auto, but you could struggle with a manual. Would be a great enginefor comp safari though as its small and reasonably light for so much power. They can of course be tuned to 260bhp odd. On the flip side it might be better value installing a TD5, with a variable boost turbo, a big intercooler and propane injection and you'll probably get similar power! I do know that the 4.2tdi as found in the landcruiser and nissan stuff can produce 320bhp with mahoosive intercooolers and a "bit" of a pump tweak.
  4. I've used VHT caliper pain t from Frosts in the M-i-Laws oven She never found out- its no problem as long as you are careful with drips and clearing out the fumes a fan oven seems to help in this respect- but obviously reduce by a few degrees and a few minutes otherwise it'll burn.....
  5. going to get in trouble for this- but its very rare to find a siezed thread on the cruiser and thats a 1993 vehicle. All of the bolts are pssivated fine thread M6, M8 or other metric with 12mm, 14mm and 17mm heads. is it down to thread, quality of metal, finishing, or something else?
  6. the vast variety of bolt types you find on the same vehicle- a stage 1 v8 was the worst for this- had metric and imperial interspersed all over the place- oh and the fact that none of the bolts are fine thread so rust ridiculously quickly!
  7. 404 Axles can be picked up pretty cheap- last set (admittedly a few yeras ago) cost £250- that would give you 4 portal boxes to play with. NO idea if they would take the speed though- perhaps getting something cheap, then cryo-treated and REM finished.
  8. Hey Ford Prefect parts for Stage 1 V8s are very very rare- you could be better of flogging the CVs and then buying some 252s
  9. the main weakness is the front R&P- the rear is nigh on indestructible- if you look at the similarity in sizes between salisbury diffs, the R&Ps (of the rear of the yota axle) is slightly thicker, and the 4 pin diff is slightlier chunkier. Very very rare to break front CVs unless caused by wear. The relative weakness (and this is relative) is the fornt ring and pinion- its a bit smaller and thinner. you aren't going to blow the diff (at least i've never seen one that didn't fail due to an external issue- ie running it free of oil etc)- but what you may do is strip the teeth on the ring gear- the pinion is solid. The fault lies with wear in the diff. The pinion is fixed in place with bearings and a crush tube- over time the tube collapases every so slightly- this gives play in the pinion, which is forced away from the ring slightly- the pinion is then acting on the outer edged of the ring gear. If you have the time and money then rebuilding the diff with non-collapsing torque tubes (it takes more setting up though) takes all the play up and is the toyota equivalent of diff pegging. having said all that, the weakness we are talking about only really shows up with fairly extreme abuse- larger MTs, competition (or equivalent) etc etc, and only in rare cases.FWIW the axles under an 80 series are toyotas Heavy Duty axles- their design brief was to work in commercial and harsh enviroments under heavy weigh vehicles- they are frequently used under 7.5tonne+ vehicles. The equivalent of a rover axle (ie from a design perspective) is the "light duty" axle found under the prado and a lot of KZJ70s etc
  10. the yank axles ARE different to UK ones they don't get the fully floating rear with a 9.25" rear diff- there's was only 8.5" iirc. Also as most of them are manual they mostly get 3.8 R&Ps not the 4.11s you will often find in the UK. as to them being weak. Umm can't think of anything outside of a 101 salisbury setup to get close and even then i'd be surprised. CVs are significantly larger and stronger- diffs are hypoid front and back- although the front is weaker than the rear (especially if you run it with no oil for a few thousand miles). The actuators can be a little sensitive- the magnets inside can start to fall off. One reported case that i've come across of a weld failure on one bracket at the front. BUt nothing more. You can fit the internals to LR cases if you're clever without too much work. Front and rear standard setup is a 4 point rear with a panhard rod, and the front is pretty much the same as LRs- although the links are positions significantly higher than on an LR.
  11. Si you'd be more than welcome mate can heartily recommend steve Clinch- proper old school mechanic and just what i was looking for- didn't get arsey about the odd dent, and quite happy to make small adjustments to get the vehicle through. £20 more than i'd usually spend on an MOT but well worth it. Think he's just got all my vehicle servicing! top recommendation thanks Si jim
  12. Cheers Chaps Si- have moved to Tadley- not a squillion miles from your neck of the woods. will give Steve Clinch and Newbury 4x4 a ring and see if either can help- if anyone knows anyone else then please don't hold back Cheers Jim
  13. Can anyone recommend a MOT garage who are 4x4 friendly- ie don't mind the occasional dent etc in the Newbury or Basingstoke area? Just moved to the area and don't know anybody suitable. Thanks JIm
  14. hmm 100 series pads fit in 80 series calipers (although they are trimmed a tiny bit in 2 places) so you may get 80 series to fit- you'll have much more luck finding a 80 series being broken rather than a 100! have you tried www.brakesint.co.uk - they do new ones for £97 inc vat iirc
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