Red90

Get a dial gauge and set the timing that way. Do not trust the pin method at this point. This needs to be step 1 and then adjust fueling second. Set TDC by looking at the slot through the drain hole and not with the timing pin. There is too much play with a flywheel timing pin.

Put one of each combination in different locations and you can then do a study on which works best.

The air can't get out if it is on the bottom.

Your new description sounds nothing like a vacuum issue. If you lose vacuum, the pedal will become "normal" instead of light. This has zero to do with shifting quality. What fluid are you using in the gearbox?

Go need a vacuum gauge to see if it is producing adequate vacuum and if there is a leak.

In order to get over 18 psi, you need to have unsafe levels of fuelling. 18 psi is all you will get with fuelling limited to the maximum safe EGT levels.

There is actually no way to get more than 18 psi out of a 200TDI turbo. You can happily lock the wastegate closed for the rest of time. They just don't make much boost. A 300TDI turbo is a bit bigger and you can dial up more boost.

That does not help the jets. If you use a fluid that freezes, the jets freeze and there is no way to get the warm liquid to the jets. It also freezes in the container. Hot water on a cold windscreen also leads to broken glass.

All seat belt bolts in all cars are 7/16" UNF. It is an industry standard.

We just used an old radius arm and a johnny joint. Cheap, quick and easy. Works great.

Had a look. Yes, all 5/16" UNF. Anybody working on LRs should have a stock of 1/4" to 3/8" UNF fasteners as they are super common.

Actually, it is more like that BSF and UNF can be mismatched. They are the same diameters and many pitches are close or the same. There will be no metric fine thread bolts on a 1980 RR. You are simply confusing the situation. It is simple enough for anyone to look up the part numbers. No idea why you want Western to do it.

Almost all fine thread bolts on Series 3s, 90s, 110s, Defenders are UNF, not metric. If it is fine thread, it is most likely UNF.

An NRV there won't do anything. Your problem is a leak in the tubing or the tank. Fix the leak.

You have the NRV between the pump and the tank, correct? If you put it on the outlet, you would have a problem. The NRV is there because the pump will bleed off the vacuum when stopped. The tank should have a ton of vacuum available for the starting up phase.