Red90

You are missing the point. They should be creating a vehicle that is better off road than the previous model AND better off road than any other vehicle being sold for road use today. It should be a world killer. They should be setting a new benchmark that other would need to catch up to. While still being acceptable to drive on road by today's standards. They are not doing that.

They have long arm independent suspension. Even then it is not as good. The serious off roaders tried it and all went back to live axles.

Except, independent suspension with short arms is worse than live axles off road. This is just a plain simple fact. If you disagree, you don't understand the physics or do not have the experience. Multi link live axles with coil or air springs works better than leaves. Leaves as springs can be made to work, but there are still compromises and you really need to add some linkage and at that point, there is no reason to use them anymore. Leaves were used as they provide a simple linkage and spring in one, not because they were the best solution. These are pictures of the Defender. Production has started... This is not R&D. It is just reliability checks. As to the D5, this is a picture of one with the bumper off. Nobody with ten minutes of off road experience would put oil cooler in front of the front wheels.

In the other video from that sighting, the guys driving confirmed is was the new Defender.

Oh yes, it is there. But they don't show a different switch number. Typical Land Rover.

Which makes sense as that is what was used with older gearboxes. There is probably another part number for that if you could ever find a part manual for a short bellhousing R380. The switch itself should not change.

Test your switch carefully on the bench. If it does not close contacts with a slight press, it is bad. The aftermarket ones are usually bad.

No clue. Is your truck a factory 300TDI with an R380? Maybe someone changed the connectors. If it was a retrofit from an LT77, that is what you would have.

No. There was a change during production. CDU51 - SWITCH-REVERSE LIGHT MANUAL TRANSMISSION TRANSMISSION R 380 ALSO SERVICED AS PART OF A KIT [ - (V)MA949874 ] AMR3918 - SWITCH-REVERSE LIGHT MANUAL TRANSMISSION TRANSMISSION R 380 ALSO SERVICED AS PART OF A KIT [ (V)MA949875 - ]

The only difference is the connectors. The older one CDU51 has bullets. The newer one AMR3918 has an econoseal connector. The switches are the same.

Step 1: Burn Haynes manual. Step 2: Get real manual. You need the washer, part number 232042. Are you sure you have the correct hole?

What part number did you buy? You never know... O-ring? It should have a flat washer and you are meant to tighten it right up. The manual.

12J, TD and 200TDI used 2.25". 300TDI used 2.5".

Things that contribute to loose steering..... - Steering shaft joints. Already replaced - Internal steering box free play. Adjust as per the manual to remove. - Tie rod ends. Hold each of the four joints while someone moves steering back and forth. It is easy to feel if any are loose. - Panhard rod bushings worn or loose bolts. - Loose hub bearings. Make sure they have a bit of preload. - Swivel bearings. Make sure they have a bit of preload. With everything good, there should be very little play at the wheel. The tyre sidewall should be the main thing at that point.

They are the 65 Amp units with upgraded internals. Came with a test certificate, so they might get them done somewhere in the UK.