Red90

A CO monitor is cheap.

Traction control just has physical limits. You are good into moderate level tracks with it. Beyond that, you need axle lockers and there is nothing the best traction control can do. These newer LRs can come with rear lockers, but the ones I've seen won't let you force it on and it only turns on in a reactionary fashion. On a hard obstacle, that many times too late to be of help.

It does not force the rear diff lock to engage. Really...the center diff lock should be on 100% of the time when in low range. Turning off and on is stupid.

They really should just label the modes like this. carp - Slightly less than carp - Useless - Almost useful -What were they thinking IME, the reactive nature of them all makes them a large PITA. They need modes that force diff locks to stay on, for when the thing controlling the car, the thing with a brain, knows it is needed.

If you can plug into mains where you are parked, you can use a real heater (2000 W) or so with a cord run out to the grill. Plug it in and use a timer to turn on half an hour before you leave. This is the budget preheating system. Beyond that the diesel fired variety is the best choice, but they are a lot of work to fit properly.

And they have all come out on the web to tell us how great and capable this new thing will be. You try and explain that they really don't have the experience to make a knowledgeable comment. It is in one ear and out the other.

Lots of low cost stuff available, but like I say, you should have it on your solar charge controller. If you are not using a charge controller, that will be a bunch of the charging issue. https://www.amazon.co.uk/CPTDCL-Digital-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Capacity/dp/B07Q2Q6G8L/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=dc+watt+meter&qid=1575490336&sr=8-13 https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=dc+hall+effect+ammeter&ref=nb_sb_noss

Does not your solar charge controller not show amperage and power production? As far as producing adequate power when not driving, you need to sit down and work out the math for average daily power production and usage. This let's you properly choose the solar panel and battery sizes. If you want to monitor all this, you want a power meter that tracks usage and can then show you daily numbers. For most normal camping items, this can all be done with a decent solar charge controller by connecting the loads to its load terminals.

Measuring DC current is difficult and that is why the costs are high. I assume you understand that the Bluesea meter uses a remote shunt? This is the shunt you get: https://www.bluesea.com/products/9230/Analog_Meter_Shunt_-_100A

The image on the left is for shifting to low range (less than 5 mph). The image on the right is for engaging diff lock (less than 40 mph). The descriptions above are better, but that is what the warning labels are meaning to tell you.

I live in a place that has seven months of winter with temperatures into the -40s... I've had a Thermotop C for 15 years on my Defender. I half many friends with them. Greatest addition ever. Always works. Warm vehicle anytime, anywhere in half an hour. I use a wireless remote to turn it on. The critical things are to make sure it is mounted low enough and in a way to not trap air in the coolant an air lock in the pump will stop it. The second one is the fuel line setup. Follow the instructions carefully. Any air in the fuel will have it flame out quickly.

The two end horns move. Try the gasket on the head not the manifold.

The problem with some home made setups like that is they have seals or materials that are not compatible with brake fluid. So, it might work, but you might also end up with a seized pump over time. Here is a more local one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS820-Clutch-Bleeding-System/dp/B000ROARTI/ref=pd_sbs_263_t_0/259-4456809-5247053?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000ROARTI&pd_rd_r=4336776d-b865-43cf-8f06-df71fc098d49&pd_rd_w=FP8UX&pd_rd_wg=czHmp&pf_rd_p=e44592b5-e56d-44c2-a4f9-dbdc09b29395&pf_rd_r=840SX44AGRC1ARTVCP9R&psc=1&refRID=840SX44AGRC1ARTVCP9R

I've used the Motive pressure bleeder for year. Very simple and easy. Screw on, pump up and bleed. Works for the clutch as well. https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/import-power-bleeder-kits/products/0100-european-bleeder

The poor thing is 35 years old. Give it a funeral. Get a nice new OEM branded alternator and worry again in another 35 years.