Red90

2200 Ohms. Not Watts. Starting at £2.24 https://www.mouser.co.uk/Passive-Components/Resistors/Variable-Resistors/Potentiometers/_/N-blay9?keyword=2.2k&Ns=Pricing|0

All I see from those time spots is the TC not working at all. The wheels should not spin. Power cutting comes after two or more wheels are being braked.

Yes. It is much more than 30mm!!! And, yes, pretty sure the TD5 input shaft is completely different. Then there is the shifter relocation issue.

Low range. We are 30 kilometers from the nearest road. I think he tried all the modes. He did not know the procedure to turn it off completely and I have no clue. After that video, I threw a strap on him and pulled him up. There are much worse hills further on, so we ended up turning around because of the Disco 3. Ran the whole trail without stopping the next week plus some actual hard ones with locked Defenders and proper chains. This is just one example that I have video on. Get the same issue with newer RRs and Disco 4s. I'm sure they have fancier programming to help, but, in the end, removing power to gain traction is a bad idea....

Well that is not what I see. It seems to keep cutting power to try and stop wheel spin until you go no further.

You can buy a PC interface for little money on eBay for the Webasto and hook up to all of their units. Troubleshoot, monitor, read and clear codes and program.

Here is an example. This is a winter trip. There is around two feet of compacted snow on the trail. The Disco 3 was not making it up this little hill, so we stopped and put chains on him. He still kept on digging in. The root cause being the low profile tires and heavy vehicle. He could probably make it with more momentum, but the TC was killing him. When you watch it, you think he is backing off on the throttle. He is not. I talked to him about it as this went on for quite a few tries and he has his foot to the floor the whole time. The TC completely stopped all four wheels. After this attempt, I pulled him up. The other vehicles (three Defenders and a Disco 2) drove up the hill with no issue.

You can use any controller that you want. There is zero need to use a genuine controller. It is a simple on/off signal.

Go drive a modern Land Rover off road and get back to me. They can stop completely dead. I know it may seem crazy, but I'm only making statements based on real world experience.

No. The TC will completely stop the vehicle is the correct situations. Using brakes and cutting engine power to increase traction has its limits. Having TC and lockers is the best solution. Jeep can do it.... Rubicons have manual lockers on both axles and TC. It is not rocket science.

Not from a 1950s persepctive.

People commenting that they don't want to buy something that may be unreliable and unsafe on a Defender forum is very funny.

They are fine. Lots of people use them and I've not heard of a single complaint.

The problem with traction control is it removes power to increase traction. In certain situations, this prevents forward movement as more power is removed than is needed to move. I see this regularly with modern Land Rovers that rely on TC.

You should ALWAYS have a CO alarm if you are using any type of fired heater for sleeping.