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Red90

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Everything posted by Red90

  1. Yes. I'm pretty sure it is impossible to fit them any incorrect ways.
  2. You need to drive more than that for the oil to get up to the oil thermostat temperature.
  3. Red90

    Rear discs

    Yes, there is not really any benefit, but put do it anyway. It makes them feel good.
  4. I would disconnect the filter discharge line (that goes to the injection pump). Disconnect the injection pump solenoid wire so that the engine does not run. Rig up a funnel to the line. Run the starter until you get say 500 ml in. Then let sit over night.
  5. Around 9:30 or so. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqBlqdeP3uE
  6. The pumps give maximum fueling during starting. When they get over around 500 rpm, fly weights are meant to move the spool to the idle location. When they sit, the spool gets stuck and it just sits there at maximum fueling output. Fill the pump directly with diesel fuel conditioner and let it sit. It usually fixes the problem after a few flushes.
  7. No. The diff center with the pinion flange. a long nose and short nose look quite different. You are just showing the a arm mounting point and a bit of the axle housing.
  8. Take a picture of the diff. It will all be obvious.
  9. I assume you mean the water boiling. I assumed a flush is not needed as he states the slave and master are new. Just put on a heat shield. Exhaust wrap will rot the pipe, but you could try it for a test.
  10. Do you have the heat shield in place next to the clutch slave? The exhaust runs very close. Item 19.
  11. What engine and gearbox. Is the heat shield in place for the clutch slave?
  12. http://www.madman.co.za/ https://www.4x4overlander.com/?s=madman&post_type=product He will have a new version(s) out soon apparantly.
  13. The only way is a severely bent axle. That is why I suspect he is just doing something wrong.
  14. Are you saying the string is touching the rear tire at the front or back and has a 15mm gap at the other side? Then your axle is seriously bent. I suspect, though that you are doing something wrong. Take a picture further back of what you are doing.
  15. As I understand it , you are running a line straight from the front tire to the rear. If there is a gap, you have toe in. Adjust the toe. That said, what you are doing is not at all clear..... And that tyre is garbage.
  16. That is not how I read it. His description is quite vague. All you are looking at is the toe, so the line from the front tyres to the rear is all that matters.
  17. Sounds like you have toe in. You should have toe out.
  18. You need to get the wiring diagram and check for the fault. I would probably first look at the ground for the flasher relay.
  19. The computer controls the alternator. Yes, when it drops to 12.6, the alternator is off. Here in the land of winter, new cars go through battery in 2 to 3 years. Before they started this silly alternator control, you would get 10 years.
  20. AGM are better from physical damage, but they are no better as a "battery". Cycle life and sulfudation resistance is worse than a properly built flooded battery. Unless you "need" one do to hard off road use, they are a waste of money. The problem with modern cars and I'm sure the D4 is no exception is that they turn the alternator off as much as possible with the goal of saving fuel. It kills batteries.
  21. It won't have a manual. Their plan is to have every electronic gizmo conceivable and they are too hard to integrate with a manual. There will be no attempt to sell this as a working vehicle.
  22. Red90

    1988 90 Brakes

    If you are getting new calipers, get the later ones. This makes it easier to get pads and such in the future and makes sure you are getting the larger pistons. You can fit rear discs. There are a few writeups on the forum on what to do.
  23. Manual version? There won't be one of those.
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