Jump to content

Red90

Settled In
  • Content Count

    2,942
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

Everything posted by Red90

  1. Lots of low cost stuff available, but like I say, you should have it on your solar charge controller. If you are not using a charge controller, that will be a bunch of the charging issue. https://www.amazon.co.uk/CPTDCL-Digital-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Capacity/dp/B07Q2Q6G8L/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=dc+watt+meter&qid=1575490336&sr=8-13 https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=dc+hall+effect+ammeter&ref=nb_sb_noss
  2. Does not your solar charge controller not show amperage and power production? As far as producing adequate power when not driving, you need to sit down and work out the math for average daily power production and usage. This let's you properly choose the solar panel and battery sizes. If you want to monitor all this, you want a power meter that tracks usage and can then show you daily numbers. For most normal camping items, this can all be done with a decent solar charge controller by connecting the loads to its load terminals.
  3. Measuring DC current is difficult and that is why the costs are high. I assume you understand that the Bluesea meter uses a remote shunt? This is the shunt you get: https://www.bluesea.com/products/9230/Analog_Meter_Shunt_-_100A
  4. The image on the left is for shifting to low range (less than 5 mph). The image on the right is for engaging diff lock (less than 40 mph). The descriptions above are better, but that is what the warning labels are meaning to tell you.
  5. I live in a place that has seven months of winter with temperatures into the -40s... I've had a Thermotop C for 15 years on my Defender. I half many friends with them. Greatest addition ever. Always works. Warm vehicle anytime, anywhere in half an hour. I use a wireless remote to turn it on. The critical things are to make sure it is mounted low enough and in a way to not trap air in the coolant an air lock in the pump will stop it. The second one is the fuel line setup. Follow the instructions carefully. Any air in the fuel will have it flame out quickly.
  6. The two end horns move. Try the gasket on the head not the manifold.
  7. The problem with some home made setups like that is they have seals or materials that are not compatible with brake fluid. So, it might work, but you might also end up with a seized pump over time. Here is a more local one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS820-Clutch-Bleeding-System/dp/B000ROARTI/ref=pd_sbs_263_t_0/259-4456809-5247053?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000ROARTI&pd_rd_r=4336776d-b865-43cf-8f06-df71fc098d49&pd_rd_w=FP8UX&pd_rd_wg=czHmp&pf_rd_p=e44592b5-e56d-44c2-a4f9-dbdc09b29395&pf_rd_r=840SX44AGRC1ARTVCP9R&psc=1&refRID=840SX44AGRC1ARTVCP9R
  8. I've used the Motive pressure bleeder for year. Very simple and easy. Screw on, pump up and bleed. Works for the clutch as well. https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/import-power-bleeder-kits/products/0100-european-bleeder
  9. The poor thing is 35 years old. Give it a funeral. Get a nice new OEM branded alternator and worry again in another 35 years.
  10. An alternator is an A/C generator. Exactly the same as an A/C motor.....
  11. Get it fixed ASAP. The AC voltage that comes with a dead diode kills other items in the vehicle really fast. If you do not already have a 100 A alternator, it is a good opportunity to upgrade to one.
  12. Paddocks? That won't improve things!
  13. Next year they are releasing pictures. Production for 2021. https://ineosgrenadier.com/faqs
  14. Just buy new ones. They are really low cost.
  15. They don't have easy recycling in the UK. That amazes me. Do you understand the purpose of the urea?
  16. Sounds like two unrelated faults then. Just a coincidence.
  17. The oil light circuit is very simple. Switched power to the light. Other side of light ot the oil pressure switch. The switch grounds on low oil pressure. Disconnect the wire from the switch and the light should turn off. If not, there is a wiring issue. If it does turn off, either the switch is bad or the oil pressure is low.
  18. Is the charge light turning on with the ignition? If so, disconnect the charge light wire from the alternator. It should then go out. This will prove if the wiring is correct.
  19. You will need to talk to your local supplier. They will know the correct one.
  20. I would get this one. https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod_5497988-Uprated-Billet-HYBRID-Turbo-CHRA-Core-465171-465175-Land-Rover-Defender-Discovery-200TDi-Turbocharger-Cartridge.html This is the regular one: https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod_3501596-Genuine-Melett-UK-Turbo-CHRA-Garrett-TB02-TB0243-4438540033-fits-465171-4651750001-LANDROVER-200-Tdi-25D.html
  21. Do you have the nuts off? If so, yes, tap the housing and it should work loose. It is a good time to drill and tap the manifold for an EGT gauge if you ever want one.
  22. JLR were attempting to trademark not only the Defender shape, but all Land Rovers back to the Series 1.
  23. Yes, you need to remove the pulley and knock the front casing loose to rotate. Or you could just buy a 100A alternator already setup for a 200TDI Defender. They are available and not expensive.
  24. Obviously..... The point being is that an MOT is meaningless. The UK car market is a bunch of criminals.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy