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Ex Member

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Everything posted by Ex Member

  1. The stock wiring does not use a relay. You need to add one.
  2. It just means the seal between the swivel and the hub is leaking. This is a good thing, not bad, so relax.
  3. VNTs can be directly boost controlled. That is how the HS2.8 does it. If you do get that bolt on 200TDI VNT done, make sure you let us know. I would be very interested. What mods are you doing to the pump to control the high boost? In my testing the boost plunger bottoms out around 13 psi. Are you needing to install a larger spring and reset all of the fueling?
  4. Whatever you do, I would go for a VNT style turbo. It makes the engine much more useful off road.
  5. There are other options. Have a look here, some others would be suitable. http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/MTF.htm
  6. The Santana box won't fit to a diesel engine. IMO, it makes more sense to sell the whole vehicle to someone that wants a V8 and buy a diesel.
  7. If you are going that big, then Toyota 8" centers, with 4.1 gears, 30 spline shafts and Longfield CVs. You are wasting money staying with Rover centers.
  8. One other suggestion, if it is just for night use... The power feed to the indicator could be from the dash lights then through the switch. This allows the indicator to dim with the other dash lights.
  9. You need at least 285/75 to not look silly....
  10. Note that 4 - 100 Watt lights is 33.3 Amps, which might be a bit much for the relay and wiring. You might need a large relay or 2 relays or a solenoid.
  11. Yes, assuming that is what you want. It is basically telling you the switch is on.
  12. So you want the "light" to go on when the switch is on but not necessarily the flasher stalk? I assume what you are showing is that the spots go on with the high beam headlamps and the switch on? I think your only option is a double pole switch. The second pole on the switch is used just for powering the indicator light. Double pole switches are pretty common.
  13. Thanks you very much. Using that part number saves a lot of cashola.
  14. I should say that I am using the normal timer/relay with the output wired to the choke light. Works fine. I just thought the OP did not want to use the stock system.....
  15. Someone want to pop under a 1997 D90 300TDI and see if the exhaust clears where the rear tank needs to go? They don't exist on this side of the pond and checking things out is a bit difficult!!
  16. One day, I'll throw a meter to check, but I believe around 15 Amps each, so 60 Amps total. If you don't want to use the stock timer/relay, I would suggest a single high amperage switch for simplicity. I use a Pollak switch. Push/pull reated for 75 Amps. Cost around $15 and easily available, http://pollak.thomasnet.com/viewitems/swit...?&forward=1 There are also momentary switches that should be adequate, http://pollak.thomasnet.com/item/switches-...60?&seo=110
  17. The problem is that the diagram covers both part numbers. Early is TA to WA (1996 to 1998) and later is > XA (1999+). Neither can have silencers, I'm sure. The earlier ones are really cheap.
  18. On the exhaust question. I would like to change to the later 300TDI exhaust the allows for a rear tank. The silencer is ESR4526 and the rear pipe is either ESR4537 orWCG102890. Anyone know which is correct or when they started putting rear tanks into the trucks?
  19. But they are different sizes....are they not? How can they both fit the same place?
  20. Let's all start at the beginning.... The heater is not dismal. The condition of the heating system usually is, though... 1) Make sure your thermostat does not leak at all when closed. There should be no heat at all in the upper rad hose until normal operating temperature is reached. 2) Make sure all the heater cables are adjusted properly. 3) Open up the lower dash vents as they are quite restrictive.
  21. There is not much point. The horizontal style has a better heat exchanger, but it is smaller. I doubt that there is any measurable difference in heat output. Just get the proper replacement. Nobody has found a better scrap yard replacement that I know of. There are aftermarket uprated ones, but they are crazy expensive. Just do a good job sealing the matrix and adjusting the flaps and the heater should put out a lot of heat.
  22. Except with those, you will have to spend a bunch of time making up a mounting system. The Mondeo fan goes straight in.
  23. Look, you just go down to the breakers and pick up a Mondeo fan. They are cheap and the best for the job. The ones in the auction are junk as they won't mount well. The mondeo fans fit great and cover the radiator properly.
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