Ex Member

The wiring sounds correct. Make sure to run a heavier gauge main wire back to the starter lug due to the larger alternator. Yep, Discos and Defenders have different water temp gauges. Not sure the part to use.... The tube goes to the air filter outlet end (between air filter and turbo). It is the positive crankcase ventilation system. Where you actually connect it would depend on how you are planning to makeup an air inlet system.

Take an upper swivel pin bolt off to let the air out.

Yes, always test your snorkel. Put a plastic bag over the head. The engine should die and the suction should be held on the bag.

Just go to a welding shop. They will sell you the cables and crimp the ends on for you...

The gearing ratios are different as well. 5th is lower and driving on the highway will not be as nice.

As stated.... Purple from the fuse to the switch. Purple/Black from the switch to the horn. Start at the fuse and work towards the switch. This diagram should be fine for the horn. #83 is the horn.

They have only VERY recently released some 16" and 15" sizes. http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/specs/mud-t...a-km2/3930.html

KM2, a much better tyre. It has been out more than a year, so is not untested.

Wait until you are fully at temperature, then adjust until it is smooth. Simple.

IMO, no. An MTF is a much better choice as the friction modifiers are better designed for the synchronizers to function.

The Prestone/Valvoline synthetic DOT4 is 260C and available anywhere. http://www.prestone.com/products/functionalFluids.php Not that the 260C matters in a Land Rover....

You want the 75W90, not the 75W90NS. "NS" is for limited slip diffs.

My suggestions Engine - Esso Extra XD-3 0W-40. Available at Walmart for $23 per 4 liter jug. 10000 km changes or once a year are very conservative. LT77 - Red Line MTL (not the synthetic ATF) Transfer box & diffs - Any synthetic or semi-synthtic 75W-90. Lots of choices available, but the Redline is a good price and one of the best. IMO an 80W-90 does not have an adequate temperature range for Canada. Brake fluid - Any DOT 4 is fine Grease - I use a synthetic, but it does not matter much. Grease is only used in non-rotating sealed components.

I remain skeptical. You need to be on full boost (i.e. full throttle) for at least 30 seconds. Sure you can be full boost for a short period, but not sustained. As soon as you go off boost the intercooler cools very quickly from the inside.

Not sure about the UK, but there are special dual tank valve that you can buy at any automotive store here. They are 6 port (2 fuel in, 1 fuel out, 2 return in, 1 return out) and they do not cost very much. Or if you are cheap, you go to the breakers and take one of a truck. I think most are the Pollak brand http://pollak.thomasnet.com/viewitems/fuel...?&forward=1

The problem with a fan on an intercooler is that it restricts the natural flow, so on the road, you will get less performance from the intercooler. Basically, do you ever need sustained high boost when moving slowly?? If not, there is no point. I can't really see when or how you would ever be able to do that. One thing I have found is that on the 200TDI Defender, the stock fan couling substantially restricts air flow through the intercooler. Removing it improved intercooler performance by a huge amount.

Are there no hills in SA??? How to make sure you do not overrev the engine on steep hills?

Oil in the intake system comes from the crankcase ventilation system. It is NORMAL for every engine in the world.

egauges.com http://www.egauges.com/vdo_mult.asp?Type=T...ion&Units=E $72 USD. Other stuff is cheapish.... $25 for an F temp gauge plus a sender. $25 for the fuel gauge (uses stock sender). $115 for the speedo plus a Disco or TD5 sender.

VDO Vision fits straight in and matches the other instruments. They are fully adjustable, so can be made accurate no matter what they are hooked up to. If you do not have a W terminal on the alternator, it is easily added.

Really? And the length of the shafts was OK? That is really interesting as it sounds like a good and simple way to change to disc brakes. Too bad there are no early (10 spline) Discos here.

Just so you understand the Disco 24 spline shafts are substantially weaker than the 24 spline shafts that were on the 90 "HD" axle.

I've never had any understeer problems. Never noticed anything strange in tight corners. Like I said, I keep "waiting" for all the bad characteristics that people say will happen. I've noticed no change whatsoever from the open diffs other than more traction. Sure selectable lockers are "nicer", but Detroits are much simpler and much cheaper. I paid $250 for my locker....and it just works

Bah... All the Detroit haters have never used one. I've had one for two years and I'm still waiting in anticipation for the "bad" things to happen. It just works. You can't even tell it is there other than you just drive up everything that the normal people can't.... I've had zero bad handling. Nothing strange has happened in a corner or on a side slope.

There is no need for special charging for an AGM. There is either something wrong with the battery or the charger.