Ex Member

Could be a bad starter. Could be a bad connection. Could be an amperage drain when off. Could be a bad battery. Could be a bad alternator. YOU need to test things to figure out which.

1) Don't know. 2) It varies with temperature. The relay has a temperature sensor to adjust the glow time. 3) No sorry. 4) No, the temperature sensor is inside the relay unit.

That sounds normal. Can you measure the spring heights when parked on a flat surface? Also do you want the front any higher? If so, how much? Lastly do you have any non-stock weight on the front? Bumper, winch, etc..

If the trailer has a non-rotating ring, when off road, you need something to rotate to prevent the hitch from binding.

First thing..... Measure the height of each spring and post here. Do you want the front higher than it is now? Those are normal 110 springs, http://members.shaw.ca/red90/NRC8044_5.html and look normal. If you want a bit of lift, fit regular 90 rear springs to the front. They are the "normal" 110 HD front springs. One assumes you can get some for free. If you don't like free, then there are many choices for aftermarket, but it depends if you want any lift or not and you current weight.

You said £1000, now you say 400...... I was refuting the 1000...... 400 is a fair mark-up on their list. edit, I understand your pain as the HD kit for a 200/300 (less flywheel) is around £50

Ummmm, the DA2357HD kit is a heck of a lot less than that from Britpart...but you can't buy direct normally.

Or buy a timing kit. They include the correct pullers and don't cost that much. You can lend them to friends for beer.....

Sounds normal. The timing is set via a pin into the injection pump through an access hole in the timing cover and another pin in the flywheel through the drain hole. You "can" use drill bits or get the proper timing pins. Best to read the workshop manual.....

You could copy your records or tapes to the computer. All that you need to do is run an output from your amp into the sound card and record away. It will take forever, of course......and results vary. Once on the puter, it is quick and easy to make a CD.... But, as stated, CDs are a 1990s thing..... I haven't used records or tapes since the mid 1980s sometime. Did they not stop making them over 10 years ago?? Does this factory unit at least play MP3 CDs?? If not, that is appalling in a modern vehicle..... Can you fit aftermarket. The deck in my 90 has a front USB input. A small portable hard drive holds every album that I own easily.

If the shocks are not changed, no. The shocks are what limit extension travel.

That is what is should do. Stock dampers are not gas pressurized (and should be either). You don't really need a sterering damper if the rest of the steering system is in good order. I did not have one for years and noticed very little difference with it on.

As you insert the stub axle, pull back on the CV to make sure it goes up onto the bush before bolting it up to the swivel housing.

The one on mine (orginal 2.5NA) never goes below the chassis. It goes over top.

Thanks. So under the chassis. I had not wanted to go that way to avoid damage to the pipe off road, but I suppose it is fairly out of the way.

I think I need a picture. I've looked at how to reroute it to avoid the area where a tank would go and I can't see how to avoid getting it too close to the tyre.

Does anyone have pictures of the exhaust? I'd like to see how it avoids the area behind the axle.

Here is a picture of the parts page. #11 bolts to the vacuum pump and #12 connects to the pump. The cable should have a clevis end, but I suppose you could rig something up.

There should be a linkage assembly that attaches to the vacuum pump. The cable goes into that and there is a rod that connects to the pump.

Just think of this as a nice lesson in working on Rover front axles. Everyone should know how. As a minimum, replace the hub seals while you are there. That is the nice thing with these early axles, the halfshaft at the diff is weaker than everything else. You can normally be assured that is where it will break.....

If you are good at welding aluminium and machining the face after welding.

Anybody know how much lift these things give?

Linky no worky.

http://www.safari-equip.co.uk/index.php?page=4

It is better to get the 90 two piece doors. Used on all MOD 90s and early models. They are a better design than the Series ones. If you weren't on the wrong side of the world, I would swap with you tomorrow.....