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Those are factory sealed connectors. Just splice into the wires. Solder and heat shrink and it will last forever.
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The chalk rpocedure is the go....
Please note, the OP was asking about a 110....
SOME people are talking about 90s........ These are (strangely engough) DIFFERENT......
:rolleyes: It is quite important on these vehicles that the rolling radius of the rear tyres is not less than the front. If it is, highway handling goes to hell. I'm quite serious here..... So in the end, when loaded, measure the front and rear hub center heights and make sure the front is lower than the rear. As you load up, you need more pressure in the rear tyres.....
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If you have play as the pinion flange.
1) Check that the big nut is not loose. If it is loose, tighten it.
2) If #1 does not fix it, you have a bad pinion bearing and they need replacement. This is a job for someone else........
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Maybe it does that because the sender is fitted to a brass plug on top of the thermostat housing. So it is on the radiator side of the thermostat. I also only go 10 miles to work.
Your engine temperature sender is AFTER the thermostat?? That is not a good idea. If the thermostat failed, you would not know the engine is overheating.
My engine gets to normal operating temperature well before 10 miles. Feel the upper rad hose. There should be NO heat at all untill the engine reaches 88 C. If there is heat, the thermostat is leaking.
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...My VDO gauge registers less than 80c on the way to work...
Then you have a bad thermostat..... If it budges before 88 C, it is bad....
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I've said it before and I'll say it now. If you believe the standard Defender temp gauge you obviously also believe in Father Christmas and the Easter Bunny. Throw it away and fit something that works.
From what I have seen, that is only a 300TDI problem. The 200TDI gauges seem to read properly. I have tested mine and it read very linearly throughout the range and is accurate.
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Sounds fine. I was testing some thermostats the other day and the ones that opened at the correct temperature sat about there on the stock gauge.
Where it first stops climbing is where the thermostat opens. As long as it does not climb a lot above that point, you are good. It takes a lot to make the fan necessary unless it is really hot out.
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No, just unbolt and pull off the engine. It is pretty simple. With the rad and support off, there is lots of room to play.
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I quite fancy putting the oil in the LT230 as these boxes run very hot (as you will know). Redline do make a 75w90 GL5 gear oil which I reckon would be about right - or would you recommend one of the other gear oils
That is what I use in my LT230 and is what I would recomend.
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Correct me if I am wrong but anti squat is a measure of how much the back end squats under power, much the same as anti dive measures how much the front end dives under braking.
How much power would you need to make a differnce? I would have thought the run of the mill lr engine would struggle to make anything squat.
Yes, at 100%, there is no movement. Below 100%, it squats, above it rises.
In low range, there is a lot of force available.....
It is more a question of how the tire behave dynamically when climbing. With a very high AS, the tires will push down, with very low, they will lift up. These forces will cycle with power application. When you are a long way from 100%, you can get the wheels hoping and makes climbing difficult. Some people like some AS (>100%) as theoretically under power the wheel push down adding to traction. Others like to get close to 100% to prevent the load cycling.
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It is just not good for the injection pump to run dry as it uses the fuel to lubricate itself.
It takes all of 30 seconds to bleed the filter. Not sure what the big deal is....
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I could say so much after the tone of the last email I received, but I won't...
Really?? I just bought from them. I have NEVER seen a Rover parts supplier that prompt and friendly to deal with, both by email and phone.
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A strange thing - when I check my front diff oil it is always overfull - is it migrating from the swivels? Not that I worry about this very much.
Yes, the swivel fill levels are higher than the axle fill levels. It always migrates as those seals never hold. I always discard the seals between the axle and swivels when they are apart.
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I've done it the following way at least a dozen times...
Unscrew old filter, drain and discard.
Screw on new filter.
Start engine, but don't rev it just let it idle.
There might be a slight drop in revs as filter primes but its never ever failed to start or stalled once started.
You "can".... but you shouldn't. It is not good for the injection pump to have air going through it. Best to prime the filter.
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I hadn't, but I can't see one on their site for the Puma?
Phone and ask, I think they will do anything.... They are very friendly and helpful.
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Have you considered Southdown? The nicest IMO. Only 159 UKP delivered.
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Thanks Jim. It also seems to be the cheaper than the older Disco models.
Could you also look up the plug part number? Thanks a bunch.... I really should load up Microcat...
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Can domeone look up the part number for the TD5 speedometer sender? I just want to compare prices with the older Disco ones. Thanks.
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I'm looking at: http://www.siliconhoses.com/content.asp?in...&cat=0022DC
I'm running it from the vent on the side of the wing into the air intake.
For that hose, it matters not what you get as long as it won't collapse under suction. Also that hose is larger than 2". 2-1/2", I think. We have been only talking about the pressurized intercooler hoses. Also, for that hose, stock would probably be cheaper.
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can get 315's for a 16" rim, they'd fit on a 2" lifted 90. if you got busy with the scissors you could most likely get them on an unlifted one too.
if you roll on to a thread in the 'out and about section' jimfoo has posted some trail shots and there's a disco 2 running a set. not quite sure what size though.
OK, there is that one size 315/75/16, which is 35" x 12.5"..... Don't ask for the price!! Really, though, IMO, if you are doing 35s, get a full off road tyre.
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I'm guessing I'd only need the ones that can handle up to 150C?
Sorry, what are you looking at? There should be only one choice.
Elbows: http://www.siliconhoses.com/content.asp?in...amp;cat=0022A90
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Order 51 mm hoses. I ordered from Siliconhoses as well. Make sure you get clamps, HC45-60 They are much better than the stock stuff.
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I am on the cusp of replacing my MTs. Getting rather worn. Whats the score on the new version? Any idea of when they are due to be available?
They say September in "normal" sizes, at least in North America. As stated, they have been out around a year in 17 to 20 rim sizes.
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If you are not in a huge rush, I would wait for the new version of these tyre to arrive. They will be MUCH better.
:rolleyes: 
Fuel Filter Price
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
2 micron aftermarket. Higher quality, better filtration, more options AND less cost (than genuine).
http://www.stanadyne.com/new/ppt/ppt_dffs.asp