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Bearing are bearings.....
Measure the OD, ID and width and look at the type, ball, roller, whatever. Any bearing supplier should be able to supply or take it to them.
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Maybe it is a UK thing.
Traditionally "overdrive" MEANS speed increaser. In the past, gearbox top gears were always 1:1. When they started building ones with less than 1:1, the were called gearboxes with overdrives...... Whether or not the overdrive is in a spearate gearbox or in the main gearbox matters not.
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/overdrive
Main Entry:over·drive Listen to the pronunciation of overdrive
Pronunciation:
\ˈō-vər-ˌdrīv\
Function:
noun
Date:
1926
1 : an automotive transmission gear that transmits to the drive shaft a speed greater than engine speed
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Yes, "overdrive" can refer to any gears that are lower than 1:1 thus making the gearbox a speed increaser.
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Of course the air DOES get hot when it is compressed. That is why it is important to use tubing and fittings that can take heat. The stock stuff is specified to take that amount of heat.
The clear tubing shown in that photo is not very heat resistant.
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You shouldn't need everything. Whack the rollers out of the outer hub bearing. That should free the hub. Then you just need new bearings and spindle (stub axle in LR speak).
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Looking to replace both front break calipers on my 83' 110. The old ones are "ab" brand and the numbers are 3247 682C and 3247 681C what is a suitable replacement, as well as pads to go with them? And just out of curiosity why are some $500 or more and can 90 breaks work on a 110? Thank you.
I assume you mean "brakes".....
Calipers should be AEU2537/8 as far as I can tell assuming it is original, which does not match any 90. Now....keep in mind people change things on these vehicles and that might not be what is on there. These are the non-vented ones.
Craddocks prices are 60 and 75 UKP, so around $270 USD for both. Pads are $20.
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Do any 300TDIs have curved pipes?? As I said "W" is 1998, so the start of the TD5....
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The straight pipes must have come out before the 300TDI as they are clearly shown on the 200TDI parts drawings that I've posted above.
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Yes at the TD5 intro.
Just get a VDO Vision. They look great and don't cost a lot. The senders are cheap as well.
The only downside is that after you get one, you'll want to replace them all as the old gauges look horrid afterwards.
~$25
or
~$50
Senders are $7 if you make a bushing from the old one. $40 for a direct fit one.
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on the heater connections the hose that runs along the engine should be on the heater matrix rear [nearest bulkhead aka firewall] connection & hose from cylinder head to the forward connection.
Why, cos the flow of water would be the same direction wheter right or left hand drive, the matrix won't know any different. & the hoses on the engine are at the same location regardless of L or R drive.
OK, I've just looked at the manual and your description is backwards. The feed hose (from the rear of the engine) should go to the heater core nearest the bulkhead. The return hose (feeds back near the thermostat) should be from the farthest from the bulkhead. This ensures the heater is counterflow which will gives slightly more heat.
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Just get a matching sender. It won't match anything else.
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in the initial post
LOL, I know that is what he said...but it took him three month to identify the transfer case. Maybe he is wrong on the gearbox.
Weird that someone would go to the trouble to custom fit a Quadratrac in the UK. A bunch of extra work for a hard to find and inferior box. It would be interesting to see how it mates up. Maybe they just bolt up... That would be really strange.
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So Gromit....
What about the main gearbox? Can you see what it is?
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WOW!!!! Who knew you could do that!!!
BTW, the low range planetary gear is what some people have built under drives out of for both Series and LT230 transfer cases.....
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/...sc&start=60
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread....;highlight=1339
Too bad they only have 2.5:1 low range.
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thx again for the advice all!!, naturally i'm going to check the timing first!, no evident oil loss since oil change a couple of months ago, is the timing on a diesel something for a mechanic?, or something a fairly competant diy mech like myself could undertake!, havent dissed the other advise of more major engine work yet !
cheers Wade
By the book, you are suppose to use the timing pin set. You can buy these from a few places, or find someone local.
However, with these pumps, you can just advance it a little and see. Scribe a line on the pump and timing housing, so that you know where you started. Loosen the pump bolts a little (3 on timing housing and one at back of pump). Rotate a couple of mm (counter-clockwise as viewed from the front of the car) and tighten up. If it is too advanced, you will hear excessive pinging under load and it will not want to rev as freely. Just be carefull and adjust to what seems right. If it is too advanced, it will be hard on the engine.
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By the "book" you are supposed to bleed air from the steering box via the bleed screw.
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Don't believe everything you read on the internet.
Is it consumming a lot of engine sump oil??? If not, I'm right.......
Go out and retard the timing on a 2.5TD, go on..... see what happens.... Tons of smoke at idle and on overrun, just like the OP says is happening.
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Think my power steering pump may be on the way out the steering has gone a little heavy and jerky.
It looks quite straight forward, whip the belt off, unbolt old one plus pipes and refit. Could'nt be that simple or can it?.
Yes, simple as that. Just be careful to not load it up before bleeding all the air out of the system. Could be other things though. Maybe the steering box. Maybe something amiss in the linkages or swivels.
I assume you checked the fluid level
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Most likely the timing is simply retarded.
Blue smoke on a diesel on overrun happens when the timing is retarded. Adjust the timing and I bet it is all better.....
Engine oil consumption does not give blue smoke on a diesel, that is for petrol engines. On a diesel, blue means unburnt fuel or oil. This can only happen if the fuel is injected too late or if it is getting in after the cylinder such as exhaust valves or turbo seals. However, your description of smoke only on idle and overrun is exactly what happens when the timing is retarded (injecting too late).
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IMO, no.
Biodiesel is ONLY for old style diesels, period. No modern diesels can run it.
Silicone hoses kit for 300Tdi
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I bought mine from http://www.siliconhoses.com/ for my 200TDI. Just purchase standard elbows and trim to fit where needed. Good prices and their elbow have a good length of straight which was needed on one of the elbows. Make sure you get their clamps as well as they are quite a bit better than normal ones.