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Ex Member

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  1. Maybe it is a UK thing.

    Traditionally "overdrive" MEANS speed increaser. In the past, gearbox top gears were always 1:1. When they started building ones with less than 1:1, the were called gearboxes with overdrives...... Whether or not the overdrive is in a spearate gearbox or in the main gearbox matters not.

    http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/overdrive

    Main Entry:

    over·drive Listen to the pronunciation of overdrive

    Pronunciation:

    \ˈō-vər-ˌdrīv\

    Function:

    noun

    Date:

    1926

    1 : an automotive transmission gear that transmits to the drive shaft a speed greater than engine speed

  2. Looking to replace both front break calipers on my 83' 110. The old ones are "ab" brand and the numbers are 3247 682C and 3247 681C what is a suitable replacement, as well as pads to go with them? And just out of curiosity why are some $500 or more and can 90 breaks work on a 110? Thank you.

    I assume you mean "brakes"..... :lol:

    Calipers should be AEU2537/8 as far as I can tell assuming it is original, which does not match any 90. Now....keep in mind people change things on these vehicles and that might not be what is on there. These are the non-vented ones.

    Craddocks prices are 60 and 75 UKP, so around $270 USD for both. Pads are $20.

  3. So this is the right way round? hard to make out on your picture Ralph.

    Based on the way I understand the drawing in the parts catalog, that is backwards. It also makes more sense from a heat exchanger persepctive to have it the other way around.

    post-608-1204654034_thumb.jpg

  4. Yes at the TD5 intro.

    Just get a VDO Vision. They look great and don't cost a lot. The senders are cheap as well.

    The only downside is that after you get one, you'll want to replace them all as the old gauges look horrid afterwards.

    310-105.jpg

    ~$25

    or

    310-010-002K.jpg

    ~$50

    Senders are $7 if you make a bushing from the old one. $40 for a direct fit one.

  5. on the heater connections the hose that runs along the engine should be on the heater matrix rear [nearest bulkhead aka firewall] connection & hose from cylinder head to the forward connection.

    Why, cos the flow of water would be the same direction wheter right or left hand drive, the matrix won't know any different. & the hoses on the engine are at the same location regardless of L or R drive.

    OK, I've just looked at the manual and your description is backwards. The feed hose (from the rear of the engine) should go to the heater core nearest the bulkhead. The return hose (feeds back near the thermostat) should be from the farthest from the bulkhead. This ensures the heater is counterflow which will gives slightly more heat.

  6. in the initial post :D

    LOL, I know that is what he said...but it took him three month to identify the transfer case. Maybe he is wrong on the gearbox. :lol:

    Weird that someone would go to the trouble to custom fit a Quadratrac in the UK. A bunch of extra work for a hard to find and inferior box. It would be interesting to see how it mates up. Maybe they just bolt up... That would be really strange.

  7. thx again for the advice all!!, naturally i'm going to check the timing first!, no evident oil loss since oil change a couple of months ago, is the timing on a diesel something for a mechanic?, or something a fairly competant diy mech like myself could undertake!, havent dissed the other advise of more major engine work yet !

    cheers Wade

    By the book, you are suppose to use the timing pin set. You can buy these from a few places, or find someone local.

    However, with these pumps, you can just advance it a little and see. Scribe a line on the pump and timing housing, so that you know where you started. Loosen the pump bolts a little (3 on timing housing and one at back of pump). Rotate a couple of mm (counter-clockwise as viewed from the front of the car) and tighten up. If it is too advanced, you will hear excessive pinging under load and it will not want to rev as freely. Just be carefull and adjust to what seems right. If it is too advanced, it will be hard on the engine.

  8. Think my power steering pump may be on the way out the steering has gone a little heavy and jerky.

    It looks quite straight forward, whip the belt off, unbolt old one plus pipes and refit. Could'nt be that simple or can it?.

    Yes, simple as that. Just be careful to not load it up before bleeding all the air out of the system. Could be other things though. Maybe the steering box. Maybe something amiss in the linkages or swivels.

    I assume you checked the fluid level :lol:

  9. Most likely the timing is simply retarded.

    Blue smoke on a diesel on overrun happens when the timing is retarded. Adjust the timing and I bet it is all better.....

    Engine oil consumption does not give blue smoke on a diesel, that is for petrol engines. On a diesel, blue means unburnt fuel or oil. This can only happen if the fuel is injected too late or if it is getting in after the cylinder such as exhaust valves or turbo seals. However, your description of smoke only on idle and overrun is exactly what happens when the timing is retarded (injecting too late).

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