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This what he is talking about. http://www.etrailer.com/faq/aboutwd.asp You pretty much need a class 4 receiver and then you could mail order the hitch parts. Probably tough to get a receiver hitch in the UK as they use those silly plow shaped things on the back. http://www.trailersnhitches.com/receiverhitchindex.htm http://trailersnhitches.com/putnam/hitchac.../weightdist.htm You could probably mail order a receiver from the States, but as stated, it probably is not legal in the UK.

OK, 3rd line is low range. You can figure out your own speed/1000 rpm 2007 Defender Gear Ratio High Range Overall Ratio 1st 5.443 23.334 63.0 2nd 2.839 12.171 32.9 3rd 1.721 7.378 19.9 4th 1.223 5.243 14.2 5th 1.000 4.287 11.6 6th 0.742 3.181 8.6 300TDI/TD5 Defenders Gear Ratio High Range Overall Ratio 1st 3.692 18.4 43.4 2nd 2.132 10.6 25.1 3rd 1.397 7.0 16.4 4th 1.000 5.0 11.8 5th 0.77 3.84 9.0

First column is the gearbox ratio. Second is the overall drivetrain ratio in high range (gearbox * transfer box * axle ratio). Low range is not shown.

2007 Defender Gear Ratio High Range Overall Ratio 1st 5.443 23.334 2nd 2.839 12.171 3rd 1.721 7.378 4th 1.223 5.243 5th 1.000 4.287 6th 0.742 3.181 300TDI/TD5 Defenders Gear Ratio High Range Overall Ratio 1st 3.692 18.4 2nd 2.132 10.6 3rd 1.397 7.0 4th 1.000 5.0 5th 0.77 3.84

There is a hose from the airbox to the left hand side wing vent.

I call BS, let's see some proof.

Also what years?? Axles have changed over the years. From Maxi-Drive catalog Salisbury (110 to 1994) with drums. 665 and 985 mm Salisbury (110 1994 to ~2002) WITH DISCS 650 AND 970 mm Don't show the 90 numbers, but again they would change when 24 spline came in.

Look here: http://www.landrover.ee/est/files/manuals/...0Tdi%20info.pdf

Check that the boost sensor line from the turbo to the injector pump is clear. I would pull the top of the pump diapharm and make sure you have a clear line through to the turbo. Are you losing any engine oil?

Well I have a 200TDI and have driven many. It warms up as fast as any other diesel I have driven (I also own a VW diesel). With a diesel, you need to do some work to warm them up and then it is as fast as a petrol. If you idle it cold, it will never warm up, plus it is REALLY bad for the engine.

IME, the warm up time is no different than any other diesel engine.

If you really want heat in the winter, put in a Webasto or Espar coolant heater. Set it to turn on 30 minutes before you leave and everything will be nice and toasty.

I have run my 1991 model in -40 without trouble...... I have a lot more insulation than stock however. Nobody would be able to answer on the 2007 models as winter has not arrived yet.

Adjust the smoke screw back.

285/75/16 just barely fit without trimming using the correct wheels. You would need to adjustthe steering stops, but that does not count IMO.

No, they should act very much like glow plugs. It needs to be on before cranking just like a glow plug. The normal manual or automatic glow plug systems would work fine.

270 kg according to the factory installation manual.

Actual compressors are between isothermal and adiabatic. For adabatic (no heat loss) compression of air: T2 = T1 * R ^ ((K-1)/K) K = specific heat ratio = 1.4 for air R = pressure ratio, say 2 for 15 psi. T1 = Inlet temperature in K = 300 K T2 = outlet temperature (K) T2 = 300 * 2 ^ ((1.4-1)/1.4) gives 93 C worst case with no heat loss during compression. In addition, the water vapour in the gas reduces the temperature increase quite a bit if saturation is reached.

Yes, but the flowrate of air is the engine size and the turbo pressure. The maximum turbo pressure is regulated with the wastegate. If you have not changed that, then the flowrate and temperature of the air leaving the turbo is no higher than stock. When you increase fueling the air rate stays the same. The extra fuel is supplying the extra power by itself. In order to add more air, you need to do things to the turbo.

Just to be clear the air supply have nothing to do with the fueling. Air and fuel are independent. It is simply the engine size and the turbo boost levels. Increasing fueling on its own has zero effect on intercooling requirements.

Certainly.... The intercooler only controls EGT if it is not cooling the air enough. At stock boost levels, the stock instercooler is more than enough. Don't hold your foot to the floor until you get an EGT gauge. Mr. timebomb we'll call you.

Smoke at low revs won't worry the EGTs. Boost does not come on until the revs are up and EGTs do not become high until you are on full boost and increase with engine speed. Adjust smoke off boost with the smoke screw. You'll want some smoke IMO to keep the turbo lag down.

You need a long extension (or 2?) and a universal to reach it.

The method in the workshop manual (which I find easier) is to lift the engine, remove the engine mounts and lower the engine down without the mounts. All flywheel nuts are then accesable.... As to the flywheel housing, you should be able to seal it with any normally sealing method that suits your fancy....

Except that running the injection pump dry is really quite bad for the life of the pump.