Ex Member

The pressure in the exhaust ports is always higher than the pressure in the valve cover. This forces exhaust gas to flow into the valve cover if there is a valve stem leak. There is no way for oil to flow counter to this. As to oilways, there is only one oilway through the head gasket and it is not near any combustion chambers. In addition, any oil entering the combustion chamber (more likely via the rings) will be burned. If so much was entering that it could not be completely burned, the engine would run on the oil and it would not be possible to shut the engine down through normal means.

I will guarantee it is not engine oil. There is no way for engine oil to get into an exhaust port. I can explain if you wish.

It is just exhaust leaks. With the engine cold idling, half burned diesel will come out the exhaust. It is not oil. Put it together and drive it. Cold idling destroys the engine. If you just rebuilt it, you are ruining all of that work. It is critical to get load onto the rings immediately.

If the manifold gasket is leaking, fix the manifold gasket......

It is pretty sad when a factory engineer can't figure out the problem after a week. With an engine that has been in production for a couple of years. Imagine being a normal owner, where your only hope is the barely over minimum wage monkeys to troubleshoot.

Pretty much anything electrical can be damaged. It sucks when you need to start replacing everything electrical in the vehicle. In addition to the high voltage, it is most likely pumping high voltage AC into everything. Being in Sweden, he is sitting on the battery. It is not fun when one explodes and catches on fire. There is nothing like a battery box full of hydrogen.

Best to not drive it until repaired. You will damage electronics and if long enough, cause the battery to explode.

IME, it does not stick long term to rusty surfaces either. Sand blasted rough is the only thing I've seen make it past 5 years. Now, this is on a vehicle that is used, not a garage queen. Driven all winter in snow, salt and gravel. Normal polyurethanes or enamels are fine and don't peel off with standard surface prep. The POR-15 does not like attaching to things. If you want a durable under vehicle coating, I would suggest regular two part polyurethane or epoxy.

I disagree. I've used it for 20 years and getting it to stay on for long term is very hard. Sand blasted surfaces are the only thing I've seen it stay attached to. 3 to 5 years and it starts to peal otherwise. Normal paint preparation does not work. It comes loose eventually.

Sure. As long as you can sign off that you will accept no government funded health care when injured. This would help reverse the anti-Darwinism that is currently destroying the species.

Getting POR15 to stick to something (long term) is much harder than most coatings.

Yah. I mean does it really matter if the kids die in a collision? It is always fun to make more of them. We really should go back to the time before seat belt laws.

Well.... It is not standard everywhere. Japanese standard is 12 mm. You must never have seen a Japanese car.

If it is not a floating spline, but one that is hard bolted, it should not matter. There should be no spline movement to cause wear.

Side facing seats are not legal in most parts of the world.

M8. Most likely 12mm heads. 12mm heads are common for M8.

If I read right new tread depths is 13.6 mm. Zero depth id 1.6 mm. That puts you at 48% depth. So the wear rate sounds pretty normal.

I have one and know many people that have one. It adds a slight self centering action under power. You would only notice when driving back to back with the open diff. If the tyre pressure is less on one side, it pulls slightly to that side. What you are describing means something is wrong. Did you ensure the diff internals were correctly arranged for a front install? Are the tyre pressure even side to side?

It astounds me why people put themselves through the pain. This is the sort of story I hear from every single new Land Rover owners I have talked to. It will be an interesting story in February to see how it fairs after a period of -40.

From Series 3 manual 2.25 petrol Intake lift 10.236 mm, Exhaust Lift 9.85 mm Inlet opens - 6 B.T.D.C. Inlet closes - 52 A.B.D.C. Inlet peak - 113 A.T.D.C. Exhaust opens - 34 B.B.D.C. Exhaust closes - 24 A.T.D.C. Exhaust peak - 94 B.T.D.C. 2.25 diesel Intake lift 9.85 mm, Exhaust Lift 10.26 mm Inlet opens - 16 B.T.D.C. Inlet closes - 42 A.B.D.C. Inlet peak - 103 A.T.D.C. Exhaust opens - 51 B.B.D.C. Exhaust closes - 13 A.T.D.C. Exhaust peak - 109 B.T.D.C. From the 90/110 manual This is the 2.25 diesel and petrol and 2.5 diesel Inlet opens - 16 B.T.D.C. Inlet closes - 42 A.B.D.C. Inlet peak - 103 A.T.D.C. Exhaust opens - 51 B.B.D.C. Exhaust closes - 13 A.T.D.C. Exhaust peak - 109 B.T.D.C. This is the 2.5 petrol Inlet opens - 11 B.T.D.C. Inlet closes - 47 A.B.D.C. Inlet peak - 108 A.T.D.C. Exhaust opens - 46 B.B.D.C. Exhaust closes - 18 A.T.D.C. Exhaust peak - 104 B.T.D.C.

No different than a diesel 2.5 cam other than the price....

Just use a 2.5 diesel cam. Don't get too carried away. You can only get so much from this style of engine.

Assuming he lives in Lethbridge as stated in the video, a 2 hour drive each way to the dealer would suck. Hopefully he does not get many issues.

Your best way forward is to connect a computer and watch all variables during start as it appears to not be throwing a code.

Ummmmmm. That pipe is the turbo inlet.