Jump to content


Settled In
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Red90

  1. You are missing the point. They should be creating a vehicle that is better off road than the previous model AND better off road than any other vehicle being sold for road use today. It should be a world killer. They should be setting a new benchmark that other would need to catch up to. While still being acceptable to drive on road by today's standards. They are not doing that.
  2. They have long arm independent suspension. Even then it is not as good. The serious off roaders tried it and all went back to live axles.
  3. Except, independent suspension with short arms is worse than live axles off road. This is just a plain simple fact. If you disagree, you don't understand the physics or do not have the experience. Multi link live axles with coil or air springs works better than leaves. Leaves as springs can be made to work, but there are still compromises and you really need to add some linkage and at that point, there is no reason to use them anymore. Leaves were used as they provide a simple linkage and spring in one, not because they were the best solution. These are pictures of the Defender. Production has started... This is not R&D. It is just reliability checks. As to the D5, this is a picture of one with the bumper off. Nobody with ten minutes of off road experience would put oil cooler in front of the front wheels.
  4. In the other video from that sighting, the guys driving confirmed is was the new Defender.
  5. Oh yes, it is there. But they don't show a different switch number. Typical Land Rover.
  6. Which makes sense as that is what was used with older gearboxes. There is probably another part number for that if you could ever find a part manual for a short bellhousing R380. The switch itself should not change.
  7. Test your switch carefully on the bench. If it does not close contacts with a slight press, it is bad. The aftermarket ones are usually bad.
  8. No clue. Is your truck a factory 300TDI with an R380? Maybe someone changed the connectors. If it was a retrofit from an LT77, that is what you would have.
  10. The only difference is the connectors. The older one CDU51 has bullets. The newer one AMR3918 has an econoseal connector. The switches are the same.
  11. Step 1: Burn Haynes manual. Step 2: Get real manual. You need the washer, part number 232042. Are you sure you have the correct hole?
  12. What part number did you buy? You never know... O-ring? It should have a flat washer and you are meant to tighten it right up. The manual.
  13. 12J, TD and 200TDI used 2.25". 300TDI used 2.5".
  14. Things that contribute to loose steering..... - Steering shaft joints. Already replaced - Internal steering box free play. Adjust as per the manual to remove. - Tie rod ends. Hold each of the four joints while someone moves steering back and forth. It is easy to feel if any are loose. - Panhard rod bushings worn or loose bolts. - Loose hub bearings. Make sure they have a bit of preload. - Swivel bearings. Make sure they have a bit of preload. With everything good, there should be very little play at the wheel. The tyre sidewall should be the main thing at that point.
  15. They are the 65 Amp units with upgraded internals. Came with a test certificate, so they might get them done somewhere in the UK.
  16. Only if they are a 3 bolt casing. Most casings are 4 bolt, so this does not work. A whole lot of work when you can just buy one that works... For a Disco 200TDI, you can simply buy the 100 Amp alternator for a 300TDI.
  17. The 100 Amp ones work fine. No belt slip. No overloading bearings.
  18. No. Disco alternators are opposite hand to Defenders. In addition, the space available on a Defender is much smaller.
  19. Had one for five years and know many others as well. No problems at all. Goes straight in.
  20. Plug and play. No screwing around customizing things or figuring anything out.... https://www.lrdirect.com/DA1195-200-Tdi-Defender-Alternator-Up/
  21. I used a Cole Hersee Switch. Fits the stock location and you get variable intermittent. Works great. https://www.littelfuse.com/products/switches/windshield-wiper-switches/electronic-windshield-wiper-switches.aspx They also do non intermittent ones: https://www.littelfuse.com/products/switches/windshield-wiper-switches/electrical-windshield-wiper-switches.aspx
  22. The only difference with two speed is there is one more wire to the motor. ULG is the high speed. NLG = off, RLG = low speed, LGB = wash, G = power. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachments/wiper-motor-connections-pdf.70470/
  23. The viscous unit is an on/off control device. It is not gradual. It is no different to an electric fan cycling on and off. I'm not sure that you understand how a viscous unit works.
  24. I'm sorry but you are wrong. I've been designing complex control systems for decades and building and designing testing facilities. Controlling on the engine temperature is the correct way and prevents swings in engine temperature leading to shock. This is how every car with an electric fan built in the world works.
  25. That is people setting up the fan control wrong. They use the radiator outlet temperature as the control. You want to use the inlet line as it is the engine temperature you are controlling, not the radiator. With the control in the right place, there are no temperature swings beyond what is normally seen with a thermostat. You certainly need a good fan in certain situations. Off road is most situation, it is needed. Any long climbs that are not at motorway speed. Basically any situation that you use it for what it was intended....
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy