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Everything posted by Red90

  1. Is the charge light turning on with the ignition? If so, disconnect the charge light wire from the alternator. It should then go out. This will prove if the wiring is correct.
  2. You will need to talk to your local supplier. They will know the correct one.
  3. I would get this one. https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod_5497988-Uprated-Billet-HYBRID-Turbo-CHRA-Core-465171-465175-Land-Rover-Defender-Discovery-200TDi-Turbocharger-Cartridge.html This is the regular one: https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod_3501596-Genuine-Melett-UK-Turbo-CHRA-Garrett-TB02-TB0243-4438540033-fits-465171-4651750001-LANDROVER-200-Tdi-25D.html
  4. Do you have the nuts off? If so, yes, tap the housing and it should work loose. It is a good time to drill and tap the manifold for an EGT gauge if you ever want one.
  5. JLR were attempting to trademark not only the Defender shape, but all Land Rovers back to the Series 1.
  6. Yes, you need to remove the pulley and knock the front casing loose to rotate. Or you could just buy a 100A alternator already setup for a 200TDI Defender. They are available and not expensive.
  7. Obviously..... The point being is that an MOT is meaningless. The UK car market is a bunch of criminals.
  8. MOT means nothing. I've seen many UK trucks arrive with current MOTs with chassis that you can put your arm in.
  9. They are there because Land Rover put them there. There is no more logic than that. Maybe someone in the factory in the 80s could come up with one, but even that is doubtful. The parts catalogues are only a good 90% accurate. Land Rover and quality control are not to be used in the same paragraph. The big question is why you care? If they are rusty buy a set of stainless ones.
  10. They were also sold in Japan. Back to the original question. Buy from a dry part of mainland Europe. There are a few trustworthy companies with a lot of exporting experience. UK Defenders are mostly horribly rotten and it is nearly impossible to find a trustworthy person to purchase from. Really there is nothing wrong with driving a RHD truck. But the UK is a bad place to get one. South Africa or Australia are a lot better. I would not suggest looking for a BATUS truck from Canada. They are mostly in very bad condition. I live close to the base and there are hundreds of them running around and have seen many at the auctions. Maybe once they start to part with the Wolfs it will be a different story.
  11. See if either of these are right. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-90-110-Decal-Label-Badge-AMR5718-Fuse-Box-Information/272102220659?hash=item3f5a8e6373:g:wZAAAOSwGotWlDMw https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-90-110-Decal-Label-Badge-AMR5861-Fuse-Box-Information/271950770056?hash=item3f51876f88:g:1hUAAOSw7R9b52BR
  12. The 720 number is the continuous maximum specified by Garret for their turbos. Nobody really knows what is the safe maximum. A lot of people run much higher and are not destroying the engines. 720 is probably a nice safe temperature to run fall of the time. What boost are you running?
  13. Yep. Never ever had an issue opening and closing doors while sitting on two wheels.
  14. How? It is a simple and completely isolated system. Switch to motor directly. There is no way for it to cross feed with anything.
  15. IMO, you are best to remove the whole thing with manifold and oil cooler lines. Then change the cartridge on the bench. I would also get new OEM oil cooler hoses and a quality (Lemforder) manifold gasket. You will need the turbo to manifold gasket as well. If in a hurry, buy studs and nuts for the manifol to turbo connection. You can leave the turbo exhaust outlet in place. Seized nuts and broken studs are common.
  16. Red90

    Drop Arm

    Sure, but taking the box off of the car is a lot of work. These pullers will get them off in place.
  17. It is also in the workshop manual. It says 0.030 mm (0.012") maximum.
  18. You don't need M18 bar. It is not a lot of pressure. You need to be very careful not to spread too much. In fact, there is a very clearly specified maximum spread that is allowed to prevent the damage. You are only spreading enough to remove the side gear preload. Read this: https://www.randysworldwide.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Dana_Spicer_Housing_Spreader.pdf No more than 0.015" housing spread.
  19. Nope. You need the later style pedal box that came with the 300TDI.
  20. It is a serious bitch to install these person I'm not that keen on, horrid devices.
  21. Step one in these situations is to understand exactly how wiper wiring works and then use a meter to troubleshoot the offending part. It beats changing parts and hoping. Personally, I change my old trucks to the later style intermittent stalk. It is all plug and play with a loom from Autosparks.
  22. There are no relays....in this era for the wipers. Wiper relays were introduced with the "Defender" in the 91 model year, giving intermittent and wash with wipe functions. It is straight wires from the switch to the motor.
  23. I asked them directly and they said automatic only.
  24. No. It is not. Like I said, there are MANY vehicles with both manual and automatic options. Fuel consumption and emissions are the same as long as final gearing is the same. Don't drink the Kool-Aid. I work daily with German engineers. They run a good line. Don't fall for it.
  25. Oh BS. There are lots of cars made with autos and manuals and there is no difference in emissions. Complicated is the wrong choice for THIS vehicle.
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