Ex Member

?? That is what they all have. 7" rims made for RRC and Disco 1 all have that offset. Stock Defender wheels have a 20.6 mm offset.

He says it is a 1991 model, so should be factory normal. No point in changing.

Just stick with the stock setup. It make life much easier to not have random custom stuff.

You need wider arches to cover and clear a 35x12.5. Around -10 mm offset to maintain clearance inside. A lift by itself does not affect clearance. You need taller bump stops. You need at least 1" higher bumpstops. 2" is better, especially if you have flexible suspension.

It will be fine. If you want to keep the spacers, you can use Disco 1 steel wheels as they have the 33 mm offset. Otherwise most after market 16x7 steel wheels are around 10 mm offset and will work well without spacers. Or Wolf 16x6.5 at 20 mm offset without the spacers. 235/85 is a stock size and you have lots of room.

If they wanted to do something useful, the screen would include complete diagnostic access with troubleshooting guides and full workshop manual. That is what should be expected for a true vehicle designed for remote travel.

Actually you can buy repro units. Not cheap, but available. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Off-Road-4x4-Land-Rover-200tdi-Air-Filter-Housing-Case-Bracket-OBPXAFB01-/172367282809 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/obp-4x4-Air-Filter-Housing-Defender-200-Tdi-OBPXAFH001/173603416048

The real problem is 15 years down the road. The screens will start to fail as do they all and there will not be replacements available as the tech will be too old. With important functions only capable through the screens, the vehicles will be scrap.

So the rads are in front of the front wheels.... I guess Lucky8 lied last year.

I'm guessing the person that asked that question figured it out or gave up 10 years ago.

The stock oil temperature sensor port is M16x1.5. You can buy a VDO sender that screws directly in. Part 323-056. Simple and reads better as the tip is properly in the oil flow. This is for 200TDI and earlier engines. They removed the port for the 300TDI.

11 year old thread....

The problem the new thing compared to the old things in those videos is all in the tyres. They new more sidewall and lower pressures.

You need to adjust the linkage as FF states. Anything else is a hack.

I have one. It is plug and play. I did grind out the turbo inlet though to match the manifold. The turbo inlet is oval and smaller than the manifold, presenting a step to the flow. Other issues... The manifold studs frequently break. It is a good idea to have a spare set in advance. The oil return lower fitting usually needs grinding to fit. Performance wise, it is not a big difference. Boost comes on a bit earlier, but it is only 2 or 300 rpm. EGTs do drop at the same boost level, so you can increase fueling some. They can put out a lot more boost, so there is more power available if you want to increase boost.

I personally would not use a xW30 oil seeing how low is the hot oil pressure. This is solely set by the hot viscosity. The 30 number is set by the viscosity at 100 C. 40 is a range above 30.

Your latest pictures look as if the wire is too small for the terminals.

Pretty much the same as mine.

Sure. You need fairly skinny seats to have enough space to sleep between them. My 110 has cargo area side facing seats in custom frames in the second row, facing forward. This leaves enough space for a 45 liter fridge between them, which could work for sleeping.

You are still doing something wrong or have the wrong size terminals. The wire should break before it comes loose

They are all available.

The open side goes to the female side of the crimper with the curves to curl them around. One side should be larger for the crimp over the wire insulation. Try this video.

The crimper looks fine. You are using it wrong. There is only one right place for the terminal to sit in the crimper.

You need to have the matching crimp die for the terminals. Those dies do not look like what is normally used for uninsulated terminals. Your photos are not very clear. Make sure you do NOT twist the wires. They need to lay straight for the terminals to wrap around them and clamp down.