Pepé le Pew

I wouldn't buy the BP one for sure. My experience is that they sell pulleys and flanges made from inferior metal and the splines or keyways are badly manufactured and out of true. Same goes for Bearmach. Cheers, Eric.

I use the truck and excavator wash at my workplace. Cocrete ramp to put the Landrover on so I can walk underneath to clean the underside. Oil- and sand-separators in the drain so no environmental issues and the amount of mud that comes off a Landrover doesn't compare to the amount that comes off an excavator and as long as I clean up after myself nobody complains. I know. I'm a lucky b*st*rd. Eric

I think the oil is leaking from the swivels into your brakes and not from the diff so draining the diff won't cure the problem. Eric.

In Holland its like this. You can tow a 2000Kg plated trailer behind a 1300Kg towing limit vehicle as long as you don't exceed that 1300Kg but you still need the correct licence (BE) even if that trailer(650Kg) is empty. I guess its the same in the UK. One Europe and all. Eric.

My daily commute serie 2a sits on 255x85x16 and I find the steering very light. Not heavier than the 235x85x16 I had before. I used to own a 110 without PAS and that had definitely heavier steering. Eric.

Does your 109 have a fuel sedimenter(water separator)? If so,have you ever cleaned it? It should be on the chassis next to the fuel tank. Eric.

The Zenith 8000 starts at 227 euro. Fixing the drafts makes a lot of difference,but not easy on a softtop. I closed of all the open bolt holes in the bulkhead with gaffer tape and that alone makes a huge difference in winter. Good sealing rubbers on the two vents in the bulkhead is also important. I have the stick-on Defender ones on the inside of the flaps and the original serie ones on the bulkhead. These two combined stopt all the draft from there. The serie 2a is my daily drive and during the winter i use the metal truckcab but as soon as the weather improves i switch over to a bikinitop combined with a fume curtain to close the back on rainy days. The truckcab is a bit less drafty then the bikinitop,but not a lot. Like i said, i never used my heater at the high setting and never felt the need to. What also helps is using a radiator muff in the colder month. I never close it off alltogether but leave the flap open. My thermostat works fine,but i find that with the muff the under bonnet temp is higher so there is less cold coming through the bulkhead and less heat dissipation via the pipes/hoses that go to the heater. End result is that warmer air comes out of the heater and less cold through the bulkhead. Closing the front with a fume curtain will certainly help even though yours is a stawag. Hot air rises so the gap at the bottom won't have a very big effect and you can always close that off with a homemade temporary bulkhead. Cheers, Eric.

But you don't drive it in 4x4 with the FWH disengaged every day i presume. Thats why i wrote "eventualy". Doing it your way is the equivalent of jacking up one wheel and letting it spin for a couple of hours at high speed. Cheers Eric

Sorry Koos, I realised later that i got your name wrong. Well 2 letters were wright anyway. Have a look at http://www.eberca.nl/downloads/# for dutch prices. I bought mine at Budget Parts in Drachten but that was a one off i think. It had been lying on the shelf for a while and i haggled and got it realy cheap. Eberca can no doubt point you in the right direction for purchase. Benefit of the Eberspacher heat- exchangers is that they come in 12V or 24V. Here is how i fitted mine in the passenger footwell. Cheers, Eric.

Hoi Joost, I use the Ebersbacher Xeros 4200 heat-exchanger in my serie 2a and its one of my best buys ever. It has roughly the same specs as the one in your link. I use it in a 88" truck-cab, so in a 109 it might not do the job. Edit: I only use mine at the slow fan speed so that gives 3Kw and 150m3/h At the high speed it does 4,2Kw and 200m3/h but the high speed wire isn't connected so i never tried that. There is also the Zenith 8000 and the Artik 10000. http://www.eberspaecher-marine.fr/en/download/blower-heaters.html Cheers Eric.

That is a good option if you want to ruin your front diff. When you drive the diff without the FWH engaged the forces will follow the route of the least resistance. The halfshafts are different lenghts and weight so don't offer the same resistance, and when in a turn the UJ's in the swivels create resistance which will not be the same on the left and right. The result is that most of the time only 1 halfshaft is turning(the one with the least resistance) just like 1 wheel is spinning, which will destroy the planetary gears in the diff eventualy. Cheers, Eric.

Read this. http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/new-engine-mounts-cure-vibration/ The engine mounts labelled as Genuine from the box shifters are still no good. Get original ones from Landrover which are softer rubber. LRDirect can supply them. Eric

GIYF. I just took the partnumber from O_Teunico and put it in Google together with "waterpump". You get a lot of hits then. Mainly from spanisch sites. In less then a minute i found it was the same as the Dolz L110 waterpump. So all the credit has to go to O_Teunico for supplying the partnumber. Eric.

This should be the one then. http://www.autobilon.com/lstProdBus.xhtml?nodo=&descripcion=dolz%20l110 Eric. Edit: The link doesn't work but if you google "Dolz L110" you will get there.

I think the serie 1 and 2 had a locating pin for the main bearing carrier as standard and that was replaced by the bearing seating compound in the serie 2a. But like Snagger says. That pin will stop the carrier turning in the casing but not the leak. Eric.

I did find it over here in The Netherlands. Different name,same thing. http://fire-fighter.nl/index.html They also have a webshop. http://www.quicksecurity.nl/index.php?route=product/category&path=161_169 It uses potassium which is kind of salty I think. There might be some corrosive issues after you use it on your pride and joy. Eric

That channel is the breather for the transfer box as Snagger states and should not be closed off. I have a recon box here and they fitted a length of hose inside the channel and sealed the channel with silicone gasket. The end of the hose is high in the chamber. Frankly I don't see the point in doing it like this. If there was oil coming past the selector shafts it would just accumulate there untill the level reached the top of the hose. On top of that,I have never found any oil in that chamber in all the boxes I have had and I am convinced that is oil is migrating only via the main bearing carrier and the thread of the bottom bolts that hold the transferbox to the main gearbox. Eric.

GIYF APN http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Access_Point_Name

Does it have to be Landrovers?

According to the Owner Handbook from David Sparkes link, the chassisnumber should be on the rear left hand side on a serie 1. So yours is in the right place then. Eric.

The Defender engine is a bit harder to find then the disco unit and thus more expensive. You could put the defender manifolds on a disco lump. The Defender manifolds were hard to find as wel but apparently sombody produced a batch because most of the suppliers(LRseries,Paddock, Craddock, ect) have them in stock now. If you use the disco manifolds you will have to make your own exhaust downpipe or get one from Steve Parker for to much money. Apparently the downpipe from a Saab 900 can easily be adapted to fit. Bin the metal coolant expension tank from the 2,5NA and use the disco expensiontank. The disco uses a 15psi cap and the 2,5NA 9 or 10psi IIRC. You also have to use the 2,5NA temp sender with an adapter or a 200tdi Defender temp sender. When you use the disco sender your meter will go in the red. Eric.

To make a test complete it might be better to test a genuine teflon ball next to a pattern teflon ball, a genuine chrome ball and a pattern chrome ball . I find it hard to beleive that the teflon coating(or the process of applying it) might have something to do with the failures. The grade of steel used seems more plausible. Eric.

There is somebody in Holland who has one on sale. Don't know his asking price though. http://landrover.paginamarkt.nl/bovenklep-helemaal-gaaf-/438394.html Eric. Edit: Sorry but he just removed his ad.

So do I. The route to take than would be to have the steel of an original one and a pattern one analysed and compared. Any expert in metallurgy could tell you then if the pattern one is of the correct quality and up to the job. If not than you could use his/hers findings as evidence. Eric

This all makes me wonder about the quality of the chromed serie balls that are sold these days. Are they any good? I found that the original balls had "EN15R" cast on them which says something about the material used. I have a new one here still in the box which i bought a couple of weeks ago with no markings at all. And i have a old genuine one from a 1986 110 which has "C4" stamped on the edge. No idee what that means. Cheers, Eric.