firemannotsam

Hi you are normally looking at 1-2 gallons, but obviously letting it run really low there is more chance of picking up any carp off the bottom of your tank which your pump wont like. Also if you are driving off road at odd angles there is a chance the pump won't pick it up properly especially at steep side slopes. firemannotsam.

Hi I had the same issue and my Disco was a 1998 Spec, all i did was change the 2 rear light clusters as all the wiring was there and the relay was the correct one anyway. If you just check that the wiring plug to the rear cluster has more wires going to it than pins there are in the existing socket in the old cluster if it does then the wiring is correct for the earlier cluster with indicators and tail lights. Hope this helps

Thanks for that, they did come off pretty easy so I will not put them on very tight.

Update on this guys, I have ordered all the parts from Rimmer bros as they are only up the road and after speaking to them I discovered they had a pattern part water pump which was over £100 cheaper than the LR one! All the stuff can be picked up by my Girlfriend later today apart from the new drive pulley for the pump which will take 2 days to get here. Just one question really left and that is how important is tourqeing the bolts up correctly as I don't have access to a tourque wrench at my girlfriends but dont want to buy one as I have one at home - would it be ok to to just tighten to the same feel as when I took it off and tourge properly when I get home? thanks

Hi guys I need unrgent info on where to get a problem sorted away from home. My water pump decided to die on the way to my girlfriends Last night, it looks like the bearing on the pulley has seized and it has chucked the pulley off along with the belt etc. Luckily I was not to far from my girlfriends and she popped out and towed me to hers. The problem is that I am in lincolnshire and away from my tools in the garage and need to fix it in the next couple days with minimal tools and need to get the parts as cheaply as possible. So I need some info, firstly what basic tools do I need to remove the old water pump and renew. Is it just a basic socket set needed to remove the bolts and is there anything I need to be wary off. Does anyone know of anywhere local that I could get a water pump complete with pulley in good condition without paying silly new prices. I know Rimmer Bros is nearby but obviously I dont want to pay £EEEK new prices if I can help it. I think the parts I need are; Water pump including pulley Serpentine belt Water pump gasket Anti freeze Threadlock for bolts going back in. Instant gasket for seating gasket My vehicle is a 1998 3.9V8 EFI Discovery 1. I am in sleaford at the moment. Any info and help would be most appreciated as I'm stuck at my girlfriends untill I get it fixed and need it fixed by friday. Thanks in advance guys.

Hi, I am running 235/85/16 on my disco - Discovery's come out of the factory with a 6% over read (with 235/75/16) on the speedo (as do a lot of cars). 235/85/16 is about 11% larger circumfrence which means they would cause the speedo to read 5% under. i.e at 100MPH they will read at about 95MPH. I have checked this with the use of my satnav and measured distance timing. I tend to drive with the needle at just below the speed I intend to drive at. Hope this helps.

when I first got it it was standard. After a bit of fiddling. Getting it wet. Bit more fiddling. and now It's a 3.9 LPG'd V8

I have seen plenty of LWB with these fitted - wheels will have quite a safety factor built into them as they are a critical item - plenty of people load up their discos to the limit+ and I have never heard of a wheel breaking. I personally would not worry as with what you are carrying daily is not putting the weight above the GVW of a laden disco - in fact the 110 is probably lighter unloaded anyway and you would have to put a lot in it to get close.

Hi with rregards to the rear pair of seats as guy said smaller kids cant use them now. With regards to the law using the seatbelts on sidewards facing seats is optional and they are not tested for MOT. Centre middle seat is Lapbelt on all disco 1s and cant really be changed. My disco 3.9 V8 Auto has only been off the road for 1 day in 2 years! when the ignition amp died. it is LPG converted but is still cheaper to run a diesel( and they are cheaper to service as no plugs dizzy stuff etc) but they are nice to drive and with the auto box are fairly bomb proof - if you carry out regular servicing and fix stuff as soon as it starts playing up. you will get a much newer V8 with leather/toys etc for loads less than a diesel one as MPG is rubbish. my 1999 cost £4500 2 years ago already converted and never been off road so no rust anywhere. for the same money I was looking at 1996 manual basic model. prices are much better now plenty out there for 2K 300 series much better inside and outside lights much better at night. aircon leccy sunroofs leccy heated seats abs etc all nice but more likely to go wrong and can be a pain to fix - mine has aircon but manual sunroofs and no abs or heated/leccy moved seats. cruise control always stops working but usuall just means a hose has split, but never really use it. a disco will cost more than a normal family saloon to run but you will like to drive it more.

Says in my handbook 28(front) and 34(rear) for all loads/conditions on and off road. I tend to run my rears at 32 unloaded. 100KG is nothing I have had 400KG in the boot no problem.

Hi my Discovery when it was standard (3.9V8 1998) did about 16-17ish MPG on average normal daily driving if I drove carefully. On LPG it did about 14ish but it is an old singlepoint system. With roofrack light bar and 2" lift with 235/85/16 fitted its more like 12MPG It has 145,000 on it at the moment so is probably getting in need of tlc.

Hi guys I agree that to get more power in braking you need biggger discs to get more leverage, one thing I noticed when putting larger tyres on my Disco is that the braking was not as good due to the 3" larger Dia tyres. To help combat this I fitted stanless steel brake hoses and EBC pads which are a grippier compound but wont last as long so all the force is going to the calipers rather than the rubber hoses ballooning, the gripper pads give a bit more bite for the same effort- My brakes are back to as good as if not better than before - and IMHO this is better than buying vented kits unless as stated you intend to drive fully loaded over hilly country quickly. Lindley

Just an update on this guys. Thanks for your help. I check when I had bought this from paddocks and I was just inside 12months so I spoke to them and I purchased a new replacement exhaust which they sent free of charge. Once I had taken off my exhaust I discovered a split in the top of the centre silencer which was not even on a seam it seemed like a failure of the metal. Paddocks inspected the exhaust and agreed that it was not damaged by me and refunded the cost. Sounds like its supposed to now. Lindley

Land rover engine oil seals! Are they designed to gently drip to remind you you have to check the oil regular.

Hi guys thanks for the replies, much apreciate people with more knowledge than me. Reng thanks for your reply but think you may have your figures a bit mixed up, I agree with the others that a charged battery with no load should be 12.5ishV I agree that it should be 14V+ when running with no load. I got a reading of 13.98V considering Its an EFI with lots of electrics running I think this is close enough at Idle. If I had revved the engine I am sure the readings would have incresed even with everything turned on, but I was simulating stuck in traffic so Idle measurements were what I wanted. For the rare times I will be overloading the system I think the expense of a new alternator and wiring is a waste but a shiny new battery with a bit more guts than the 60A 280CCA bosch one fitted at the moment that has been on there for at least the 2 years I have had the Disco and probbably alot more will give me a bit of reserve if I need it. I will also get myself a voltmeter to fit to the dash so I can monitor the battery/alternator and if I am starting to use to much I can turn stuff off. So last couple of questions guys, anyone Know of a nice easy to read voltmeter that I can just place/stick to the dash area for sensible money or am I looking at one of those pods from car tuning places? Is there a nice easy to get at grommet on the bulkhead drivers side that comes out somewhere easy to get at that I can run the feed for it through without lots of hassle - had a quick look but the only one I see looks like it may be difficult to find the other end! Thanks again for your replies guys Lindley

Hi Yoda, they have worn very well I think (tons of tread left - at least 75%) nice and even have sustained no damage from off road or road driving. They have rarely started to let go on road unless I have been pushing really hard and even then have been very predictable. The sidewall is well protected with grip down the sidewall they are a stiff tyre and when I have towed/loaded the car to max (including 500KG of shingle in the boot) they fely very stable and did not flex much or even look like they had much extra weight on them. Underbraking they have been fine no worse than my BFG AT in the wet and possibly better in the dry. IMHO they do cost a bit £100ish but I am very happy with them. wont last as long as BFG AT or be as good in the mud as BFG MT but i prefer them to my ATs It's only a personal opinion but I would buy them again no questions. Lindley

Thanks again Luke I think I will pop down to somewhere like Halfords and look at what they have that will fit in my battery box and has the highest AH and CCA possible. Might get some looks measuring batteries but at least I know I can physically see the battery. Might be a bit cheaper than something like an optima. The voltmeter is a good idea think I will get one of them - at least I know when the battery is getting abused and can shut stuff off to keep it in good nick for starting. Thanks again for your time and info Luke. Lindley

Hi I have a disco 1 but fitted with 235/85/16 I used to have BFG AT which were very good but when I changed them I bought Cooper Discoverer STT which are a MT. BUT in my experience after about 10,000 miles on these tyres I feel they are as good on the road as the BFG ATs but far better off road and actually better than the BFG ATs in hard on road braking. This is just my opinion. They seem to be wearing well too. they look great too firemannotsam

Thanks for the figures Luke, looks like you know what you are up to with electrics I appreciate your time taken to explain it to me. I think the Kenlowes are 30A and the inverter is 300W I think but the total would still be over what I produce when the Kenlowes are running full tilt. I posted some test results just a few mins ago so which you may have read which makes me think that genearally its the kenlowes and inverter tipping it over the edge. The Battery is a 65A (so it says on the tin!) Is it worth the expense of a new alternator to cover the very rare occaisions when the Kenlowes are working hard and the inverter is in use or as the battery is a few years old anyway replacing it with a much more powerfull which can cope with the short periods of extra demands.? My passenger(daughter) was bored sand using my laptop, inverter is rarely used - don't use the aircon much (my passenger wanted it on - I prefer the window open) and rarely is it hot enough to warrant the Kenlowes getting such hard use. Obviously best option is belt and braces i.e. both but already chuck enough money into the tank of the Disco!! Based on what you have said and the fact that it will involve a fair bit of money to get an alternator that can cope fully under the worst case scenario (which is very rare) and modify the wiring etc, I am leaning towards the more powerfull battery option thinking that enough power to cope with the short periods of over use will usually be well compensated by good charging in between periods when the Kenlowes are being used, and not putting high demands such as the inverter on the system whilst the kenlowes are working hard and the vehicle is at low speed/ stuck in traffic. In two years this is the only time it seems to have failed to cope and I was stuck in traffic for well over an hour in stop start traffic on a very warm day. would something like an optima Red top be suitible or is there another battery that you would reccommend I fit - Must fit in the standard battery box. Thanks for your time. firemannotsam

Thanks for the figures luke, I think the Kenlowes are 30A and the inverter is 300W I think but the total would still be over what I need when the Kenlowes are running full tilt. I posted some test results just a few mins ago so which you may have read which makes me think that genearally its the kenlowes and inverter tipping it over the edge. The Battery is a 65A (so it says on the tin!) Is it worth the expense of a new alternator to cover the very rare occaisions when the Kenlowes are working hard and the inverter is in use or as the battery is a few years old anyway replacing it with a much more powerfull which can cope with the short periods of extra demands.? My passenger(daughter) was bored sand using my laptop, inverter is rarely used - don't use the aircon much (my passenger wanted it on - I prefer the window open) and rarely is it hot enough to warrant the Kenlowes getting such hard use. Obviously best option is belt and braces i.e. both but chuck enough money into the tank of the Disco!! Thanks for your time. firemannotsam

Hi guys, just been out to the car to run some basic checks with my multimeter. all measurements across the battery terminals. Engine/ignition off. 12.48V Engine up to temp and at idle. 13.98 V Idle with aircon on (fans running) blower on max. coolbox plugged in, inverter on, lights on full beam, 4 spots on roof on, radio/phonecharger/satnav on. 12.5V Idle with all of the above + manually turned both Kenlowes on to full speed. 11.6V do these numbers look right? The alternator is the Lucas A127 100A Am I simply using more than I am producing when everything is on at once. Im sure someone will correct me! Would a more powerfull battery have more reserve to cope with the short periods when everything is running full tilt and more starting power even after it has been used hard for a bit? Is there a more powerfull alternator I could fit? Without any modifications or silly money spent. Thanks again for your time and expertise guys.

Thanks for your replies guys, As I said alternator is fine the two big draws on the batteries above the normal standard vehicle usage is the inverter and the Twin Kenlowes on full speed wich both have a big draw on the battery( although normally only for short periods) and are above the normal usage levels the original battery was designed for. My alternator is the 100A standard Lights and aircon etc are all normal levels as it was fitted with these as standard I just think I was taking out more than I was putting into the system and that possibly a more powerfull battery possibly with a deepcycle capability would give enough reserve to cope with these extra demands on the rare occasions I put the extra demand on the system without going for the second battery option to run things like the inverter/coolbox etc Hope this makes sense. Im sure some techy person will come on with figures etc to back up or more likely discredit my opinion! I will later today dig out my multimeter and check alternator output and battery again, I will try to recreate similar circumstances by turning on lots of stuff and getting it warm enough to turn on the kenlowes etc but it is difficult to recreate an hour in hot traffic with everything running to check how much I am running the system down by. firemannotsam

Hi guys, I am looking for some advice from those that know about batteries and electrickery stuff (not my strongpoint). My 1999 Disco 1 V8 has just a standard battery fitted but since I have fitted a lot more electrical stuff I think I need a more powerfull battery to supply all the stuff. I have fitted twin 13" Kenlowes (set to run on full speed(boost) when needed as I think cooling it down faster is better) Light bar on roof with four spots Inverter to run laptop etc ( only really used when vehicle is running but wired direct ) coolbox Powered through ciggie lighter circuit It has aircon fitted so obviously the fans will run once the engine warms up causing more draw. It let me down the other day! I was stuck in traffic in the heat on the motorway, I had coolbox running, Laptop was being used by passenger through inverter, Normal lights were on as I had turned them on as had just been in tunnel, Kenlowes running quite a bit due to stationary for ages Aircon fans running Aircon being used Satnav plugged in phone charging Radio on. Car was running fine, pulled into services turned off went bought drink etc came back and no start!!! Unplugged everything/ turned everything off - inverter had already been turned off when stoped. Still no start!!! Noticed that as soon as the ignition was turned on that the engine was obviously still hot enough to need extra cooling as the Kenlowes and aircon fans were firing up. Decided to stop those using electricity when trying to start by pulling fuses for all of them. Engine turned slowly and started yippee!!! replaced fuses and cracked on no problem. Sorry for the long winded explanation just wanted to be clear what happened. It has not had a problem the last few days and never gave me a problem before - the battery is healthy and the alternator is ok too, just think it was too much for the battery to handle? I dont want to go down the second battery route for two reasons; 1. I very rarely will be in that situation were I am using everything to that extent and don't think my usage justifies the expense of twin batteries. 2. I have very little room under the bonnet as I have lots of lpg gubbins behind the passenger headlight where it would go easiest and the innerwing on that side is where I have put the kenlowe electrics etc - the only place really is where the washer bottle is that I can see. I think replacing the original spec battery with something more powerfull would solve the problem, I have been looking at the Optima range of batteries as they have got good press generally, athough any other suggestions would be welcome. Would I be best going for a "red top" starting type or would I be bet going for the "yellow top" starting and deep cycle type to cope with the times when I am using lots of stuff (especially the inverter) ? Any help advice would be appreciated Thanks in advance Firemannotsam

Hi My disco V8 with aircon has the 100amp as standard - should be a straight swap. firemannotsam

Hi I have a '99 Disco 1, with the aircon fans and mine come on fairly early once the temp guage starts to move and work well for a few cycles but TRUST ME they will only cope in moderate traffic once you heat the engine up enough they will not cope and it will fry your engine quickly. I fitted two 13" Kenlowes behind the Rad and these are set to kick in when the needle gets about 2 thirds and which is where the aircon fans start to lose the battle. I used the Kenlowe relays and Temp switch ( I know they are not the best but its not let me down yet and I have a spare) My vehicle is an auto and has larger tyres fitted plus other extra bits of metal bolted on to it which prob makes it work harder, If yours is modded too expect it to work harder. Today in the heat on the M25 stuck behind an accident omly moving 20-30M at a time it got so the Kenlowes were only off for a few minutes each time before coming back on as there was no airflow to the rad at all in the hot traffic. Be aware also that all the extra draw on the batteries from anc equip(aircon/coolbox/lights/radio etc and electric fans can run your battery down if fans are running constantly, make sure your battery is good and alternator is working. firemannotsam