keithjh

Hi All, I have rebuilt a 1988 90 now fitted with a 300Tdi (origonally from a disco, fully rebuilt). I have fitted auto box also from a disco (also fully recon). The tyres are 235x85x16. I am now needing a Transfer Box what ratio is the best?, the 90 will not be used offroad as its for my wife, so tarmac with a fair share of motorway driving. I will in the future funds allowing get a larger intercooler and tweak the pump but at the moment its all standard. Regards Keith

Hi All, Am about to start the rebuild of a 300tdi to put in my 90, anyway in the past i have always used Graphogen Lube on bearings etc etc, intend doing so again unless anybody has news of anything better. If the bores are still good i was just going to re-ring the pistons, question is should i use Graohogen on the bores/rings or not? i have read conflicting advice on this. In the past i have usually used EP90 to coat the bores rings when replacing pistons. Regards Keith

Thanks for that Regards Keith

Hi All, I have been building a Defender 90 with a 200TdI from a Disco. Anyway obviously the temperature gauge is way out(reading very high all the time), so I am going to change to a VDO gauge. The Sender unit I have removed is a PRC 9917 does anybody know what thread it is so I can buy a VDO with the correct sender unit? Regard's Keith

Just totalled up the mileage in my 110 round Europe in the last ten years, 89000 miles (1994 110 300tdi). Breakdowns: Starter Motor changed in Germany Indicators packed up in Belgium sorted in 10 mins new 4 way flasher switch Lift pump in Croatia- changed in car park That's it, its all about preparation sadly which many seem to forget. Regards Keith

I used to run in convoys into Bosnia, anyway AA European cover does include ALL of Europe many only cover EU countries. Anyway I never had to use them but a couple of others did never had a problem with the AA including recovering a Disco with a goosed gearbox from Mostar. Also check on a yearly policy as against a one trip they are not much dearer as an example I pay £112 per year for yearly cover with the AA, plus I can change the vehicle covered up to 3 times a year at no extra cost, so for me it covers a 1994 110, 2002 Disco and a 2010 car. The European Breakdown offered by the NFU is also excellent had a friend burst a radiator in Spain a few years ago, all sorted out collected repaired and provided a hire car for the few days it took them to source parts required, but I think you have to be insured with the NFU to get this. Regards Keith

All sorted, had totally forgotten about slackening the sprocket retaining bolts. Regards Keith

Hi All, Have just changed the timing belt on the 200tdi (disco engine) in the 90, lined up using timing pin when removing old belt new belt installed (Dayco belt & new belt tensioner). Turned engine 2 revolutions as per book, woodruff key on crank looks to be about 1/2 a tooth off the timing mark clockwise. Pump timing mark is spot on, thoughts please before I go any further. Regards Keith

Okay which is the better gauge and where from, plus does it come with the correct sensor, sorry to sound a bit thick but electrics defy me Regards Keith

Hi All, Right I have a 200tdi from a disco fitted in the 90, all is running fine with the only problem being the temp gauge, reading stupidly high. I presume this is caused by the sender unit not being compatible with the TD temp gauge. So basically I would like to replace the gauge and sender unit with something better (VDO etc) SO what do I need? I keep getting conflicting answers when searching the net. Regards Keith

North of England to Bosnia 11 times Norway twice Gibraltar Southern Spain about 6 times Various trips into europe Bosnia was towing a 3.5 ton trailer all the others were towing the Sankey overland/trailer. Plus the odd trip to the supermarket if that counts. 110 300TDI 1995 now with 353000 miles on the engine. Converted to Auto box. Keith

Hi All, My wife has a TD5 (2000 Model). It started off with a blown head gasket, head removed and skimmed, pressure tested. Refitted with apart from head gasket kit (new bolts etc) it had new injector seals. At the same time I fitted new radiator and water pump. Also had a new (land rover) fuel pressure regulator and new air flow meter. Glow plugs tested all fine. Anyway after rebuilding started fine no problems and ran well. The problem is that when its cold ,after standing outside overnight it starts on and runs on 3 cylinders wont rev etc after a couple of minutes it goes onto all 5 and drives fine all day. Leave it again overnight it does the same, It has been on testbook and shows no faults when running. I have replaced the injector seals again in case this was the problem, all parts are genuine land rover, no Britpart carp has been used. I noticed a small diesel damp spot on the fuel filter so I replaced with a new filter head and filter in case air was being drawn in but its still the same. I am starting to pull my little remaining hair out and considering buying a gallon of petrol . Any ideas before I put it out of its misery and shoot the person I'm not that keen on. Regards Keith

Okay all thanks for the advice, the HVLP guns are not a problem. The workshop is 30x30ft so plenty of room. my compressor is a 200L tank 15CFM, so i will probably need to borrow another compressor to run outside for the air fed mask, which at the moment is my main stumbling block, still will get round it some way. Regards Keith

Hi All, Some advice help needed. My 110 is in dire need of paint, its Metallic Blue Clear over base (South African import 300tdi 1995). Anyway though many years ago i used to paint all my Series trucks i only ever used cellulose. Questions i have are:- After i have prepped and etch primed any new metal should i use a sealer over the complete vehicle like Barcoat (if it still exists)? Which High Build Primer is suitable? What type of laquer? Any tips on generally painting Base Coat, then applying the Laquer. Regards Keith

Hi All, I have a 300TDi 110 which I have converted to Auto. When the vehicle has been stood overnight, it will not change up into second until I am doing 3000RPM or over. The rest of the gear changes are fine. Once its warm the gear changes are no problem only when its cold . The other problem is that it wont drop into "Lock Up" until I am doing 65 MPH. In the Disco TDI it dropped into lock up at around 52MPH. The Transfer Box is the original Defender one. Any thoughts ideas fixes etc etc Regards Keith

Hi All, Vehicle is a 1995 300Tdi CSW (South African Import) Truck has been in daily use, only recent faults have been to replace the light switch. Symptoms are Ignition on click click, glow plug relay starts to chatter starter just clicks dash lights go dim. So fully charged battery still same symptoms Changed Starter for a new one- still the same (also changed glow plug relay) Replaced earth, starter motor to chassis. Have put another battery on charge from my project will charge overnight to ensure that its fully charged. Any ideas before I burn it for bonfire night I am suspecting the battery is goosed or possibly the ignition switch has a fault? Any ideas Regards Keith

Absolutely agree with the above, i am a good welder and i would not do he repairs on that, not that i could not but the amount of hours it would take to do it properly are just not worth it, if you can get a good one for £250 i would buy that and change it, a damn sight quicker and easier. If you take into account the steel, good quality flap discs, slitting discs you will go through its much more sense to change it out. Keith

I`m a PLONKER Thats me!!! All sorted thanks Regards Keith

Unable to clamp goodrich braided hose i think? Keith

Hi All, Need some help ideas here. Brakes will not bleed. HISTORY 1988 110 F reg changed from 2.5na to 300 tdi. Replaced all flexi pipes with Goodrich braided flexis Replaced front brake pipes, replaced pistons and seals in calipers, (genuine LR) Rear brakes adjusted correctly(Drums) Bled the system 3 times, no dirty brake fluid left in system, there was plenty but its now clean when bleeding. If i pump the pedal several times i get a fantastic pedal, release pedal and its back down to the floor after about 5 seconds. With the pedal pumped up and held i have checked all unions etc no sign of any leaks, there are no signs of the master cylinder leaking down the bulkhead wtc. The vehicle has been stood for several months (though run up and moved at times) but up till last week the brakes were fine I am starting to think the master cylinder has given up, but would appreciate any ideas solutions etc Thanks in advance Keith

Taking the rad out is really the only way to make sure, its only a 10 minute job to do. They have a habit of looking fine from the front but on inspection out of the vehicle you can see the rot easily. Take it out and make sure. Regards Keith

Hi all, Really as it says do i need a reversing light for the MOT? Reason for question i have fitted a 300tdi + Auto box to a 110, and have no idea how to wire it in, i was going to wire it to a seperate switch but not sure if thats allowed. Keith

Hi, I think you will find you actually need to carry 2 not 1 Keith

I have 3 vehicles insured with them 2 Discos and a 110, went up from just over 900 to 1300, no claims, 65% discount etc age 59 they are taking the tiddle. Time to move on i think have already had one quote for £910 for all 3. My son phoned for a quote on a Corsa 1400 petrol to replace his TD5 Disco they wanted an EXTRA £150 for the Corsa, according to NFU its a higher insurance group, so he is moving as well. Keith

Also check the "P" Gasket Keith