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Jamie_grieve

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Everything posted by Jamie_grieve

  1. Have you any idea of the shaft diameter and spline count of that Mitsi rear output? I'd guess that most DIY types could get a hold of a lathe easily enough but cutting internal splines is hard for most of us. Could you match that spline to a CV joint inner which could be turned and made to fit in the gear? I notice that Mitsubishi shafts are often 25 spline which coincidentally is the same number as the splines in my portal diffs. I've been unable to find any diameters anywhere yet.
  2. O´Téunico: I'm jealous of your computer skills, I'd have no idea where to even start manipulating pictures like that. I've given up on Photoshop before I even got started on it. I cant really think of any realistic way to make a doubler out of LT230's either but did wonder with your skills of computer graphics if you would come up with something wonderful I hadn't thought of. Even getting a huge pile of them and just using the high and low speed gears I still can't really see a useful way forward. The configuration's wrong really. The LT230 is a good strong transfer case with the centre diff and better low gear reduction than any other off the shelf case I can think of but because the reduction isn't available in line with the main shaft it just doesn't lend itself. I don't know if any parts from the LT95 are compatible as it has high and low range at the PTO so a conventional doubler would be possible with it in front but without an overdrive gear possibility and only four speeds it wouldn't satisfy many peoples needs. An epicyclic reduction as Bill did makes a huge amount of sense. Huge reduction, strong and compact. The splitter box as above would be good on many trucks but I can't see the LT77 and variants as being strong enough to handle at least double the input torque as would be expected of a doubler as opposed to a splitter for a half gear for towing or whatever.. I think your Mitsi idea is completely viable but only question if the overall reduction ratio and the extra length could be more easily obtained using off the shelf parts?
  3. Now that you've lost the ability to have a Viking winch, ( it is a vapour build so no restrictions need apply ) I'd suggest that you should now look for an alternative transmission. The Mitsi setup you have here is very long, using 4 cylinder Defender or Santana components and a Rakeway short rear housing you could get a Land Rover based tranny down to around 29 1/2" or 79ish cm. If you sliced a couple of LT230's down the middle and made some photo shop of the intermediate gears what kind of tranny could you build us then? FTC5090 is the coupler you need from the auto to the LT230 which is probably the thing you'd modify putting something else on. Edited to add: This drawing from Rave of the LT 230 might come in handy for your scheming and photoshopping..?
  4. I seem to remember an inertia switch thing too, it cuts power to the pump. It was ages ago I had all this but it's coming back to me. I used a nibbler to cut the hole out the floor as the hoses and wires are right underneath but to be fair a grinder would do fine as long as you don't go daft.
  5. That on it's own'll no dae. The fact that you have bubbles in the line means the pump has probably failed if the spill pipes are good and no leaks from the injection pump. You'll be trying to suck fuel through the original pump filter which is probably blocked and sucked itself into the pump and through the valves that are there too. The cutting the hole in the floor isn't a big job. You bridged the fuel pump relay yet? That's where the other end of the wire is you're looking for to energise the pump You measure how much fuel comes out in a minute to see if the pump's working or not. I got like 120ml and changed it and no dramas after. The spec was 180ml I think.
  6. Why would the winch have to be approved? If it wasn't being used for hire or reward you can carry as much scrap iron as you want on your truck and if it happens to be bolted down to stop it falling off and as your preferred method of carrying it I don't see how they could say much unless it had projections not compatible with pedestrian safety? Have you got any links to any good photoshop tutorials? I got a copy of Photoshop CS4 now and a thing called adobe bridge and I cant make any sense of anything at all. The whole thing's a complete mystery to me but I quite fancy a bit of vapour building while my back heals up. I use a Mac if it makes a difference. I've got a bunch of ideas and drawings on paper but I think being able to show them to others would be fun and Photoshop seems to be the way forward. Even changing the colour of something would be cool.
  7. I'd check it's not the relay by bridging it with a bit of wire then seeing if you can hear the pump and see the fuel move. Check your spill pipes too, although there'd be a leak. I'd also suggest if you do need to replace the pump then it won't be the last time you're in there and to aid future diagnostics I'd recommend the 'cutting a hole' approach. The carpet's really thick and makes the 'repair' more or less invisible.
  8. There's not much not to work really, you can take the pins out and take it apart and clean and lube it and it'll be fine. Take any corrosion off any sliding surfaces and maybe stick an inner valve spring in where the vertical spring goes to make it more reliable in the mud,
  9. Hard to understand why when some vehicles are fitted as standard with them. Move over here and bring your weather when you come
  10. Those 'cut to fit' axle shafts also totally lend themselves to folks making their own difflocks from machining dogs on the back of extra spider gears and sliding them up and down to lock the diff.
  11. I love the proportions and look of Jeeps. Really interesting build this. How are you notching your tubes?
  12. The four cylinder LT77 with short bellhousing and Milner adapter as Gremlin says above is what I would say too, this gives a total length of 32" from front of adapter to rear of hand brake drum. This can be shortened by nearly 3" with a Rakeway short rear shaft and housing. 813mm and 70mm for the Metrics amongst us. Hope that's of some help. I have Santana axles and discs on mine, not much help maybe but if you want something measured let me know.
  13. The wheel hubs don't have any reduction in them like the forwarder in your picture but one other interesting thing is the pipe joining all three sections is to provide positive air pressure to prevent the ingress of dust and water. Sometimes the regulator fails and oil blows out of the damaged seals. I see you are a leaf sprung enthusiast What do you think I should do with the old Stage one?
  14. I love the swear filter on here!!!!. I didn't even realise my language was so carp carp **** turd until I read that. You're exactly right, Whatever shifts this lot is probably gonna have a 6BT Cummins and I've this notion of building a monocoque. The tyres are 16.00 x 20. I'm very lucky with regards to access to terrain and project 'B' the LWB Renault transporter will help with additional play grounds further afield. One of my problems is between the Praga and the Volvo they just out everything the Land Rover so many times over in every kind of terrain and they're the daily drivers! The Land Rover as the 'toy' is the least capable and does need reinvented. I could fairly quickly finish it as is and have a quite uncompetitive challenge type motor that's mostly reliable and could be kind of entertaining. The second winch could work off the same PTO with use of the free spool levers but would just be a bit of a disaster in any kind of competition but would be handy as a wee road motor pulling old carp onto the trailer.The leaf front suspension is dreadful but still better than dragging a track rod hanging below the axle through the tree stumps that surround the house and has more travel than a standard coiler. With the engine so far back there's plenty room for four links and a transverse leaf spring.. Or not. Hmmmm, dunno what to do..... WARNING: For those not interested in Engesa 25's please look away now. Bill, sorry, when I said I really thought I did, maybe I don't after all. The only ones I can find are from one we cleared on a mined road in Angola: I don't recall their being a planetary gearset in there, I think there would be some reduction as not all gears are the same size but I wouldn't like to guess how much. I'd say these trucks are really strong and well made. Loads of them laying around in Angola. Maybe possible to guess from the spacing between the gears on a better example than this one.
  15. LOL, kinda are though but would hopefully keep the wheels pointing down most of the time. That weight is for the fronts, I think the rears are about 50 Kg's lighter. I would like to weigh them myself somehow just to know. Same with the GMC 6.2. I've seen weights around the 300Kg mark for it but not sure. It is tiny and it is quite light. Getting one of these in the post in the next few weeks if all goes according to plan: You can add a Praga V3s portal axle weighs 332Kg. Same stud pattern as the TRM which is handy for me.
  16. I would like to continue it but can't seem to find a direction to go in. I'll write down the ingredients I already have in the shed apart from what's on the motor already: 2 x LR PTO winches + 1 x Heavy PTO winch. 3 x ZF S5 24 gearboxes, 6.35: 1 first gear, SAE 3, one with hydraulic PTO. 1 x LT77S with short bell housing and Milner V8 adapter plate 3 x Rockwell portal axles, 2 rears, one steer. 3 x rockwell transfer cases, one with rear facing PTO. 1 x LT 230 with PTO for front winch, 1 x LT 95 overdrive That's the 'goodies', in addition to that, probably the same carp anyone who's been into Landies for years would probably have laying around. I think after all this I'd rather gouge my own eyes out with a wooden spoon than put coils on!! I hate the way the steering rods and track rod is on them. I've been left high and dry a few times and seen it on others plenty too. Why they would design an off road vehicle with the track rod hanging below the axle I will never know but it's common on most 4x4 / 6x6 trucks too. I was thinking of just finishing it as a road motor then using the parts above to build something else, maybe a monocoque with independent suspension. I don't know how I'd go about putting it on the road again as there's not much original left. I keep Sorning it but really don't know how that's gonna work either when the thing that's sorned keeps changing. Keep the suggestions coming please!!
  17. I think the best use for it would be to stick it in a SWB series something where you could have a blast with it and it would be able to handle the sand. It could be a kind of retro thing and a pleasure for many to see rolling around the streets there amongst the bling. The LT 85 and LT95 and any automatic fitted to a V8 would be a pain as a whole gearbox would be as easy to find as a bellhousing. Basically, anything that had 4 cylinders of any vintage will fit. Now hopefully, without sounding rude and even though I'm a completely new guy here, BUT!!!! Why on earth would you even contemplate taking a V8 out of a Defender to replace it with a 300Tdi when you live in the UAE? Especially if you're even contemplating driving in sand. V8's have more torque, more power are quieter and vibrate less. The only reason they are transplanted most places is because of fuel consumption and no other reason at all. They can be made waterproof, in fact are far safer in the water than a TDI, a teaspoon of the stuff will bend a rod in a Tdi. They can be made to run in any direction with efi or gas and are less susceptible to bad fuel. The only thing the Tdi has on the V8 would be longevity and more maintenance free as long as the cooling system is looked after. No replacement for displacement!! Yes you can tune a tdi but you can tune a V8 too and tuned Tdi's don't last long in desert heat.
  18. That is exactly the dimensions of a series 2 or three SWB chassis. Stick 8+2's on your old Santana and you'll have exactly the same thing. I've really enjoyed reading some of your mental posts on here, half the reason I joined actually. You had a mad 6x6 thread somewhere putting wheels in the middle of a Discovery, I can't find it now but I've loads of 6x6 info. I was really surprised to see the Engesa 25 come up.I've got photos somewhere of inside the walking beam.
  19. Fantastic build thread. I have a pair of PTO winches I did consider putting motors on. They are 63:1 I think, one Fairey and one Superwinch. Very similar construction to yours. I have the preload on the clutch set at 90 Nm and used one for many years in all gears in all conditions and never had a problem. I think your 20hp is quite conservative. I also have some portal axles laying about and the engine already sits back to accept a pump. Hmmmm..... Have you any more details on your pump drive setup? What would your 'ideal' setup be that you mention earlier?
  20. I think Tirfors are wonderful things. Between a tirfor and a highlift you've covered most bases. You really need to spend some time using them though to become really familiar with them. I've got both the TU 16 and TU 32 and would strongly suggest getting the 3.2 ton one, the little 800Kg one would be no use. They are bulky but are easily stored and the extra space a bigger one would make over a little one would be inconsequential with a 100 and Sankey. The best way to keep the cable is inside a fat rear motorcycle tyre. You can put this on your shoulder and carry it for miles unlike the spiky jaggy thing designed to wreck your interior and draw blood at every opportunity the give you with the winch new. Make sure you have a long extension as the tirfor ropes are heavy and seldom more than 25m which is too short. The new synthetic winch rope might not be good but get 11 or 13mm, not 8mm equivalent. You'd be surprised at the pull you can generate with one of these things. You should be doing recovery with other people but if not you can attach a snatch strap to the vehicle (shock horror etc...) and get some pull on it depending on how much you tighten it then you can drive a bit and make the pull easier. I'd only consider a 3.2 with a 110. The bigger they are the easier they are to work. They are also handy things for dragging things in tight spaces, shifting trees, pulling logs over rivers, making bridges and righting rolled over vehicles. Set up is a bit of a faff and they are very physical but they always work and they are the most versatile form of recovery there is A buried spare wheel with wheel brace across the middle makes for a good but time consuming anchor. Hope this is of some help.
  21. I took loads of photos rebuilding the front one, I should make another thread called 'santana axles' or some such or add it to this one? I'd keep the TRM 7.5" centres as they're so much stronger than a Toyota 8" and already have diff locks. It's the axle tubes that are the problem, they are 1/2" thick and weigh nearly half a ton complete with centre and portal boxes. Altogether I have 2 front axles and 3 back axles but two of them are busy converting a six cylinder phaser engined Renault midliner to four wheel drive. If I used the front portal boxes they would make fantastic independent units. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/924706-portal-axle-rockwell.html is an old thread about these axles. I'm at about the same place now as i was back when I posted it. I've been back for a few months but couldn't do anything because I had a properly prolapsed disc that was stopping me from walking properly or doing anything. I don't know, I want at least the capping, waist line and something to keep it looking like a Land rover. I don't like the look of tray backs but the upward wheel travel means the wheel boxes are level with the waist line. I had some made from old road signs when it was on the road. The problem is it's just a toy with no purpose. If it had to carry something it would have a tub, if it had to lift something it would have a crane and if it had to pull something it would have a huge winch and that's kinda the problem with where to go. The roll cage stays would dictate the shape a litle but I'm not sure I want to keep using this chassis. Can I ask what would you guys do with it?
  22. I'm not sure if this post should go in this section or the members vehicles? It's my first post so be gentle!! That said, I see a few names I recognise from elsewhere so I don't feel like too much of a stranger. I have many off road projects but this one's kinda relevant to this forum. I got an old Landrover in 1990, a 1983 stage one. I'd done two fairly comprehensive 88" rebuilds by then and figured It was time for a long wheelbase experience. I got it home (on a trailer pulled by a 2 1/4 petrol 88"!!), took the tub off it and was dismayed at the rust on it for a seven year old motor. It had been used as a caravan park tug and I reckon it must have had salt in the back judging by the holes in it. Oh, well, took the restrictors out it, took the doors off and saw how fast it went with no body on it. I was impressed!! I was also young and stupid. I decided I hated long wheelbase land rovers and dumped it in the woods to rust as much as it liked. I dragged it back out the woods a few years later and made a rear chassis for it using a standard 88" rear prop to give a 90.6" wheelbase between the LT95 and the Salisbury diff. It put the rear wheel in the middle of the wheelarch on an 88" tub where it should be and scratched an itch for me ever since I'd had land rovers. I ran it like this for 15 years or so. It grew an overdrive and Firestone SAT's (remember them..?) then it got a 3.9 after the lumps wore off the camshaft on the 3.5. I used the front cover and carbs off the 3.5 and was surprised again at how well it went. I discovered 900 x 16 Petlas one winter and never looked back. It could sit at 80mph on the motorway with the overdrive in as I found out going to the vets one day. The overdrive got sacked in favour of a Fairey PTO winch with the lever shifted to the front and a new fabricated front section of chassis. The new back and front met in the middle by cutting the bottom off the old chassis and stuffing lots of box section in there. I kept bending 'normal' Land Rover chassis doing jumps and pulling them with dumpers and diggers so I really wanted to make one that would last. It's incredible that a standard chassis is only 2.1mm thick / 14swg. I've since worked on the heavy duty Wolf chassis which are still the same but reinforced. It grew a set of 3" angle iron 'rock sliders' and some heavy duty outriggers at some time before we knew to call them that. I'd sussed out that a high lift jack was my best friend and in the years since never went shopping without it rattling around in the back held on by two spare wheel clamps on the rear tub bulkhead, It grew Santana PS 10 axles (which don't just bolt on contrary to popular opinion) with the disc brakes and wider track the last time it went into the shed and also got treated to a GMC 6.2 litre V8 diesel engine on an LT95 from a 101. It's still the strongest gearbox Land Rover ever made and regardless about the measly torque those V8's make on paper it pulls like a train and got me up a hill climb I'd been trying for years with the petrol V8's. I actually got the engine and 'box to put in my Volvo C304 6x6 but thought the Land Rover was a better test bed before I cut up my nice Volvo for it. Another useful modification I made at the start was to put the petrol tank across the chassis above the rear prop where with a bit of body chopping it sits perfectly and can be made to fit the standard filler point and I could still have my batteries and storage under the seats and not worry about grounding the tank out every time I went shopping. The old bulkhead was pretty shot by this time so I made one by mistake after getting carried away with my new plasma cutter on the old one and some handy sheets of chequer plate I was going to make a pickup bed for the Volvo with. The first time I put the engine in I used the original engine and gearbox mounts which was handy but I felt the engine would be better further back and lower down to get a little bit of it's weight further back and lower. Between the engine being lower than standard and the wider track it's actually very stable off road. I also got a bit inspired by 'teamidris' amongst others to make space for a hydraulic drive off the end of the crank to power winches and other ridiculous ideas. Moving it all back meant the poor chassis got the chop again to allow a by now wide angle heavy duty but standard length propshaft to fit. The wheelbase is now 8" longer at 98.6". The poor old thing was starting to look a bit used as well as the years rolled on and during the last refit also gained some pipework as is the current trend amongst all Land Rover fashion victims like myself. Used to be when it fell over you just put a new roof on it, kicked the wings back into shape and got on with it but alas now after all the EU shenanigans and maybe Y2K or ISO 9001 now we have to put metal bars all over the place to fall over in this health and safety world we live in. So metal bars it was but I'm quite wee, only 5'8" and as the suspension and tyres grew I didnt. Putting the engine lower meant I was starting to struggle to reach anything over the wings and being the younger side of geriatric knew my eyesight would soon be failing so figured getting in close would be the plan so I decided to have a flippy front. I know a lot of the challenge lads like to have the front wheels right out front but that can bury you too and I reckon a flat bumper a bit narrower than the track lets you turn into obstacles as you like but in the serious stuff stops the wheels getting caught up in trees and fences and stuff. It also lets you push things easier and gives me something to put the hinges on and saves me cutting up a perfectly good bumper. The hinges are made from old Santana spring shackles cut at a funky angle, polybush type spring bushes and bits of scaffold tube. The bumper is 6mm high tensile box section from a log bolster on a truck and it slides into 10mm plates on the chassis and is a removable thing with the winch to let the PTO power anything else that might go in there instead. The other end has shaped plugs which slot into the same thing on the front roll hoop and lock with a couple of bolts. The bonnet has to be lifted off to flip the front. The suspension is 8+2 Station wagon springs, both drivers side with 5 leaves removed and 11 leaf diesel drivers sides with 4 leafs removed. The shocks have different geometry as do the hangers to make it all work and one ton shackles. It steers and stops as good as a coiler and as you can see has way better articulation than a standard coiler with the added advantage that the steering is so much less vulnerable. I'm not saying it's better, just different and allows it to drag itself through tree stumps, logs and holes easier without the front wheels pointing different ways and run into things much harder with less damage than a coiler. This is about where it's been for the last three years when I've been in Afghanistan plotting new ways to make noise and mess with it. I think I want the engine and box back for the Volvo so do I put a Cummins 6BT in? LSx? Do I get a galvanised chassis and make a nice road legal motor out of it? It will never ever be competitive in any competition in the UK any more so do I just forget it and move onto building something completely different? The front and rear hoops are not joined as I'm not convinced I want to finish the cage yet if it morphs into something else. Just to throw a spanner in the works I've got 3 spare TRM 2000 portal axles laying around, a Praga V3s winch coming soon, a pile of 16.00 x 20 tyres and the summer off. I'm also recovering from spinal surgery I got last week so there's gonna be a bit of vapour building going on first. Suggestins please!
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