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Everything posted by Jamie_grieve

  1. Doubling up the transfer boxes seemed like a great idea but I couldn't actually run it with the boxes joined together as in the previous pictures unless I welded all the cases and bellhousing together. I did actually consider welding them into one big lump. I want to be able to launch this foresty rovery thingy off things and fully expect to be bouncing it off tree stumps and big stones so having flexible mountings and enough space round everything to reduce shock loads on mounts and casings is essential without causing mechanical stress to driveline components. I had too many unknowns to work with to determine the transfer case layout so I put the engine where the engine had to go which was more or less dictated by the position of the front A frame mounts, both how far forward and also the lateral location. The level of the sump relative to the bottom of the chassis and belly plate clearance dictated the height. I messed about with different dumb irons, revisited the one link again and walked about in circles a fair few times before deciding to nail it down. That 6Bt cummins is 512kg so I knew I wanted captive mounts, I also knew I wanted a bit of compliance with some movement downwards, less movement upwards and not too rigid fore and aft so some old spring bushes just weren't going to cut it. I got some tdi mounts which are actually really strong and filled the voids up with some two part 70 shore polyurethane. This gave me nice stiff mounts which didn't really move much with the Cummins sitting on them but is soft enough that when the chassis takes a knock or landing from a jump the mounts have a good lot of movement available and there's plenty of clearance for everything. in the earlier pictures I had mocked up an LT230 input shaft from a bit of LT77 mainshaft and a spare flange. It went together nicely enough and would probably have even worked for a while if the cases were all welded together in the aforementioned lump but welding them up got binned because it was deemed a silly idea at the time and nothing at all to do with the fact that the Land Rover cases were soooo porous they oozed oil out at the first sign of the welder. My first thought (after the not welding it, don't be silly thought) was using a rubber doughnut between the first and second transfer boxes but I wasn't lucky enough that everything would line up, fit in the chassis and clear the rear A frame all at the same time. I tried a few different ways of making it happen but ultimately I needed to make the second transfer case remotely mounted and driven. By making the second transfer case remote it also solved the problem of 512kg of Cummins bouncing one way and possibly the transmission another. The remote mount also offers more flexibility from the perspective of where the output from the first transfer case is. The downside was packaging as now all the various bits of gearboxes now needed enough room to thrash around without bouncing off each other or cause any strain on drivetrain components. I was really tight for space, you can see in the previous posts' picture how close the rear of the first transfer case is to the rear A frame with the front output close coupled to the input of the second. I needed to make the shortest possible remote drive shaft. I used a puma spud shaft and cut splines in it to suit a prop yoke from a classic range rover or disco one V8 auto. I ground the prop yoke a wee bit to clean it up to take a seal for the transfer case so the yoke itself now forms the sealing surface. I loctited the splines when I pressed the yoke on so they didn't leak. I got another V8 prop yoke and put it on the first to give a female spline, cut the sliding bit from a prop which was as long as I could find and yet another V8 yoke for the other end with a regular flange on it. This gave me a proper propshaft with all standard easy to get components for when the Cummins snaps them like twigs. I did destroy four propshafts in my quest to build my shortest ever shaft. By doing it this way it saved me over 60mm compared to the likes of a Rakeway remote input.
  2. The 'Toyota tax' in Australia is a standing joke but remember Toyota is actually a religion there rather than a vehicle manufacturer. Now that there is no local vehicle production in Australia I wonder if vehicle import duty will decrease? I could also be accused of comparing apples to oranges as I think the Australian ones are all VDJ whereas I'm quoting 1HZ. The base model 79 series with a 1HZ could be had for only $21,395. Notice I'm using USD, not Sterling, that's £16,219 or AUD 29,082 for a basic one. Obviously that's without registration, shipping or any taxes and very much status dependent but shows you what Land Rover is actually up against. I have no idea what it costs to make a car but if an iphone by all accounts is about $50 to make, is there the same markup for cars? Are they like diamonds where the price is carefully controlled by supply to the demand, a strategic waiting period to imbue one with a sense of value? I would imagine it to be a lot more cutthroat than that but I'd also imagine there to be a much healthier margin for range rovers than a utility vehicle. I do however know that Toyota wouldn't sell the 70 series if they didn't make money from it. Japan has no natural resources, has expensive labour and very strict standards on everything that we have standards for. How can they do it and we somehow can't? I understand that JLR is a niche producer and maybe can't borrow finance at the same rate but they could build a cheap utility vehicle if they wanted. The 70 series shows cheap doesn't mean low quality.
  3. No, but buying in UK territory though, Gibraltar and exporting to the country of choice. A poverty pack LC 79 series can be had for $23k the rest of the range isn't that far behind. Optioned with ARB or TJM bar work, difflocks, AC, altitude compensation and spares pack was about $32k or thereabouts.
  4. Did anybody else notice the broken or missing wheel nut? That's just bad form driving around without checking the basics. If it was missing on the front too one could argue it was intentional. I'm going to moan about them doing all their testing on low profile road tyres as well!! I agree wholeheartedly. Generally I'm looking for vehicles that can be used to take teams of 8 to 10 people and their equipment over unmade roads and varied terrain on a daily basis to their place of work. Right now the Land Cruiser 78 series seems to be the only vehicle in the whole entire world that's feasible. Toyota Hiace 4x4 vans do for the less arduous terrain. I've been recommending Ford Rangers for other duties over and above the hilux since the Mk 7 came out. I imagine we'll start buying Russian vehicles if Toyota stops making the land cruiser in its current form. I wouldn't even consider the Rubicon for a fleet role if you read my earlier posts on the subject although if it was dumbed down and at the right price point maybe for some roles. I could buy two Toyota 76 series for the price of one Rubicon and they would be a better made more durable product with world wide parts supply. Defenders did very well in the role, it's a shame they don't make anything like it any more.
  5. You reckon the approach angle's as good with that bumper on it? I was wondering if it was a European specced thing, it's that big it doesn't even fit in the picture!! Maybe that'll be NCAP to thank for that. The short wheelbase will obviously have a better breakover angle than the long wheelbase but compare it to a stock defender and I think you'll see the 110 slightly ahead at least on paper compared to the 4 seater Rubicon but there's no doubting the Jeep Rubicon's a better vehicle in almost every way than a defender (did I really just say that on a Land Rover forum?).
  6. Must be planning to sell it to women in the Middle East?
  7. I totally agree with all of this. I just gave away a 4.0 v8 disco 2 for free a couple of weeks ago, it came from Dumfries, you could have had it. It was horrible, it was amazingly rusty but it ran and everything worked. They seem to age really quickly and although they're V8's they don't actually go that well. I think you'd need to run megasquirt or something to get the best out of them If you're looking around the 300hp mark, have you considered a Chevrolet LS type engine? They're light, modern and powerful. Given that you have a galvanised chassis it's probably worth it. Adapters are easy to whatever gearbox you have or even to the LT230. The chev engines are very simple and parts are cheap in the unlikely event that you need any. An LQ4 or LQ9 would be cheaper than an LS to put in. You'd get better milage out of one than with the rover v8 and have as much power as you wanted. Standalone ecu's and harnesses are easy come by. It would also add value to your vehicle and would be fun to drive. It would be no more work than fitting the rover. An M57 diesel would be the diesel choice I suppose but as you say you're not keen on integrating the wiring so that leaves the mechanical diesels like the OM606 or maybe a 12V Cummins and run it off one wire.
  8. I scratched around with the cummins and the gearboxes a bit more and couldn't really find a layout that gave me a long enough rear propshaft befitting the travel you'd expect from an updated forest rover. I had 30º of articulation in mind which I decided I wasn't going to compromise on. The wheelbase wasn't exactly cast in stone at this point although the rear suspension mounts were in place all the front links were still mocked up in scaffold pole. I also wasn't going to compromise on C of G and lift the engine up over the axle which then lead to huge packaging problems. I decided I would put the transfer box where it needed to be to get long enough prop shafts for decent wheel travel then work round about it. This put the transfer box next to the gearbox. I was going to have to dream up a way of getting drive to the transfer box. I figured a second transfer box would be awesome and give me more gears and pto options to play with. Although I hadn't actually come up with a driveline solution I also thought there was enough merit in the Cummins concept to get one that actually worked. I've worked with them for years and really rate them. I know a local lad that breaks trucks and he just happened to know of a very low milage one that had been in a shed for years in a bin lorry that was vandalised and had problems sorting out the insurance. It was in a Turkish BMC and came with an Eaton 6 speed gearbox, ceramic paddle clutch and sae2 flywheel housing. It also happened to be a 210 hp one with a P pump and exhaust brake on it with the later STORM engine block. I also grabbed a radiator and intercooler from a DAF 55 which was smaller than the BMC ones and a bunch of air tanks, unloader valve and air drier. I thought a nice engine would be the motivation I needed to get cracking on the project when I was home next time. Although the original engine had been mocked up, the gearbox didn't actually fit properly and to really fine tune the mounts and front suspension I needed the engine I was going to actually use to finalise these things.
  9. I wasn't going to post this but seeing as you mentioned it, here is exactly that chassis. Notice the A frame crossmember underneath the chassis and no trailing arm mounts as such. It's not really a Land Rover chassis as much as a very cleverly designed object to look like a land rover chassis. You could equally say they started with the suspension and built the vehicle round about it. It was amazingly light, no wonder they won everything. I've no idea how heavy it got with mud. Copying the spring seats from this would be an option but I'd still say not to on a standard chassis and suspension.
  10. I'd suggest both are as horrific as each other and have no place on a vehicle with a chance of venturing off highway. I suggested spacers just as an alternative to cutting the chassis and doing irreversible harm. If you're using stuff that's lying around and you are confident with your fabrication skills you could build something pretty tasty. A lot depends on your list of ingredients. Alternatively, look at what you would need to do to turn your project into a low rider with big tyres then put longer softer springs and dampers and you'd be further on the track to having a decent off roader. What wheelbase is your project going to end up and how much rear overhang? Where's the fuel tank and battery going? Measure your front radius arms and draw them or mock them up on your workshop wall. Move it through a range of motion and using that explain how you would like it to move and we can probably point you in the direction of that. Getting the front end to work is the first thing and there are a number of tried and tested ways of doing it.but you need to first understand what's happening there to let us better help you. In many ways the back's easier to deal with. Have a wee look at antidive and have a clear picture of what actually happens with radius arms during articulation. What type of terrain will you be driving and do you have any locking differentials? Why not just run the series landy as is and modify it instead of potentially ruining two vehicles? Tube frame on the Range Rover?
  11. I'm not sure what OHV means in this context,. Off Highway Vehicle? If it is then I would try my hardest to talk you out of it and instead get you to raise them and use longer springs instead of lowering them. We normally use OHV as the acronym for Overhead Valve as applied to engines. Springs have a minimum length that should see your spring seat at least as high as the bottom of the chassis plus the compressed length of your spring, you don't want the spring to become coil bound and for the spring seat to become the bump stop. Remember the axle comes up higher than the bottom of the chassis during articulation. I'd think carefully about lowering the spring seat and what it will achieve. It'll also raise the centre of gravity of the vehicle to no advantage whatsoever and will decrease useful wheel travel as the propshaft will limit droop and you're going to lose bump travel. You'll also lose articulation as the lowered bump height with the same droop at the chassis will compound the loss. Maybe I'm completely off track of course and totally misunderstood. Maybe a wee bit more explanation for the hard of thinking amongst us. If you are determined to lower them like for a road only lifted mall crawler you could maybe build some temporary spring spacers and see how you like it first before committing to cutting the chassis.
  12. Mine came from a Renault TRM2000 but the bellhousing’s too long. Getting one from a Volvo FL6 or a Dodge 50 might get a proper SAE 3 bell housing. The Renault one has similar dimensions to SAE3 but is 40mm too long and the holes are rotated 15° wrong. I reckon one of these would let you put a Cummins in a mini. Despite the size I don’t think strength will be an issue, the Volvo 6 cylinders were at least 7.5 ton and I don’t know what a dodge 50 was rated at but way heavier than my forest rover thing could get. I opened one up to have a look and it’s well made with large ball bearings instead of taper rollers. It’s also very light.
  13. I can see it tackling it but I doubt it would come out unscathed. It's going to have decent basics you'd think so the likes of approach, departure and break over would be sorted. In fairness the Jeep Rubicon has a pretty poor break over angle and the ground clearance isn't actually that good on them. Jeep had the best display by a country mile at the Geneva motor show this year and I was all over the new Rubicon. The pictures below show the clearance or lack thereof. That said, it would be easy to lift, was very well built and steering components were very much larger and stronger than anything ever fitted to a Land Rover. I understand that there are chassis problems with them and there's been a recall. There's a huge amount of plastic and unnecessary garbage on these new Jeeps too but I think the bare bones are very good from what I saw. I think the new defender replacement would have a similar capability and appeal to a Rubicon in many ways but that the Rubicon could be accessorised and made to do things the defender replacement could only dream of. At least Jeep had the decency to put off road tyres on their exhibits, as did Mercedes and a few others. Land Rover didn't even have a single vehicle on all terrains, let alone mud tyres as they were all on low profile road tyres. I was also disappointed that Toyota never had a Land Cruiser there. The Merc G wagon with Portals was the best thing there.
  14. You can see I almost started to make some progress from the picture with the watts link mocked up on the front. There's an engine, gearbox, bulkhead, all the sorts of things you might find in a vehicle that's going back together. The watts links were for the steering where I was convinced I could get a watts link draglink to work if I put the drag link centre on the arm of another watts link. I was in the middle of tying myself in knots a bit with the steering when the sad day happened that I had to let go of one of my old trucks, a Berliet GBU 15. The poor lad picking it up hadn't actually been told what a Berliet was other than it was an old classic lorry so probably wasn't expecting a 16 ton lump of green French awkwardness to happen into his life. He had a bunch of scrap on his trailer and had to lose some of it to make room for the Berliet. Amongst the scrap was a Cummins B series from a DAF truck. I very kindly offered to shift it with the wee forklift and said it might be handy, the owner was a truck dealer and wasn't bothered about it at all. I put it on a pallet and had a scratch at my chin thinking I might just have a gearbox that would fit. I did, I had one from an old Renault lying around so I kinda stuck that on the back, the clutch splines were even the same. I had a wee scratch about in my gearbox graveyard (1st left after the engine graves next to the portal pile) and found a homeless lt230. It made for a very short package if I could make it work. 26 1/2" long from the bellhousing to the rear output o the lt230, the bellhousing was kidding on at being an sae3 and needed chopping back a bit and with a Rakeway short rear output I could get the whole transmission down to about 22" long. With the cummins that gave me an almost Identical length as the GM V8 and LT95 only this was just better in every way. the 6.5:1 first was also giving me an extra crawler gear I didn't have before. I mocked it up in the chassis and even without the shortening could see some merit in pursuing it. The poor old GM V8 got ripped out and left to rot in the engine grave yard and this is kinda where what should have been a slight deviation from some chassis tweaks turned it into something which meant it wasn't driving out the shed anytime soon
  15. Thanks, wasn’t thinking there would be much interest. The engine is in the same place as in the previous incarnation if we used the bulkhead outriggers as a datum. It’s not mid engined but the gearbox does sit about 8” / 200mm further back than standard and by using a 101 gearbox this brings the engine another 4” / 100mm further back again.
  16. The plan was to just stick it back together as it was but with the new improved radar station chassis and some new captive engine mounts made from a bit of radar channel with some 300tdi mounts as they fit perfectly together. It was actually the engine jumping out the mounts after hitting a rock that led to the first time it was laid up and I really wanted to address the issue properly. The mounts were regular V8 bonded mounts and they just tore apart like paper. I settled on an A frame and lower links for the rear suspension after considering a four link. I decided that by starting with (and then regretting) using Land Rover dimensions for the chassis instead of a complete tube frame I couldn't get the degree of triangulation I wanted for lateral location strength with a four link. Even then, the A frame was going to have to be longer if it was going to be an improved forest rover with better suspension. I decided the A frames had to go through the chassis to get the width I wanted and the length needed for the vertical wheel travel. I built little tunnels through the chassis with cut tube and flat plate and creeper joints. These sit at an angle like the Land Rover ones do but there's enough movement in them to allow it without any binding. The lowers are 51" long and the A frame about 37" I think. I was going to upgrade the steering box to one from a Renault TRM2000 as I measured the pull on the pitman arm at 4 tons with my scales. I also distracted myself for a little while looking at the TRM portals but put them back after wasting some time with them. I'll build an independent sprung buggy with them one day maybe. The steering also lead me to another problem, what suspension to use on the front. I decided a one link would be the way as a three link was proving difficult to package and a four link would mean hydro steer. I wasted a huge amount of time trying to get a onelink to fit but it just wasn't happening. I tried mocking various shapes up with concrete rebar which is easy to work with but I was tying myself in knots with it. I wasn't going to move the engine up out the way and nor was I going to compromise on the articulation or hydraulic pump fitment at the front with various other link geometries so I decided after much deliberation and many mockups to go with a front mounted A frame and lower links as well. I used SU joints for the A frames and have 13" of link separation both front and rear. The Sumb portals are also handy in a way that the inner lower parts of the portal housing are of a weldable material which makes lower link placement really easy. The A frame obviously has the same implications as the four link on the steering. Ultimately the A frame was easier to package round the engine than the upper links of a four link and the high roll centre moves the wheels away under articulation. I settled on my link geometry the old fashioned way with a scale model on the garage door after wasting far too much time on the Pirate4x4 link calculator. I also played with the notion of a Watts link before settling on the A frames. It was all going so well then something else happened.....
  17. A few weights for the the thread. A sumb front axle complete with brakes is 324Kg. add some 16.00x20 Michelins with Daf wheels (why would you?) was 752Kg. A cummins 6Bt is 480kg with ve pump and SAE3 flywheel housing. A 6Bt with P pump and SAE2 flywheel housing is 520Kg. An LT230 without handbrake or oil is 48Kg An Eaton 6 speed with hydraulic PTO is 202Kg A weight I stole from the Bader site for one of their 404 axle builds at 205Kg An LT95 with 101 bellhousing plus winch pto at 142Kg A front of a C304 Volvo with no rear body on it at 986Kg An A4 Audi quattro gearbox at 78Kg. I can update a TRM2000 rear axle at 335Kg and not the four hundred and something as quoted by a website somewhere.
  18. Following the requests of a few lads on here to see what happened, here's yet another thread resurrection of the vehicle my Mother calls 'Doomsday Dobbin'.. We left the thread a few years ago with sumb axles bolted rigidly to the chassis and I went back to work overseas. It lives outside as part of the ecosystem in my absence being natural habitat for moss and lichen. I'm not blessed with green fingers but over the years seem to have grown some epic gardens of moss in various land rovers. On one of my leaves home I decided to try and get some rear suspension happening after I got a wee fright when I thought something broke but it was actually me freewheeling down a hill with the front tyres spinning on the rims with no air at all in them. The front tyres are on 9" rims and the backs on 6" rims. I put the tyres on the 9" wheels without tubes or flaps as the sidewall was enough to keep it up with the 6" wheels. I didn't think of this when they randomly ended up on the front. I do my unimog tyres with an engine crane but these were too hard so I had to make a press to fit them but once mounted they were actually really loose. The tyres are just temporary for mockup. I'll find some real ones at some point, they need to be light. Interestingly it was able to drive some really steep and lumpy ground without any suspension at all and bits of wood jammed in the difflocks. Like a big argocat with really bad steering and no brakes at all. The chassis also flexed quite a lot which was surprising given the construction. The plan was to continue with the 'low rider' concept and match the rear axle bump height with the front which is 7" higher than standard. The 7" comes from 5" of portal drop plus the larger axle diameter to leave the wheel centre in the same place. This would allow the axles to articulate without lifting the COG unnecessarily. I chopped the chassis for the fourth time after building it and started to graft on some low rider rails. The material for this came from a local radar station that blew down in a storm. On my previous trip home I helped the contractor chop it up and remove it from site. Interestingly there was a guy from the civil aviation authority there overseeing progress who told us there were about 160 of these installations around the world and only two have ever blown away, both of them at Wanlockhead. The new one has a continuous rating of 200 knot winds so should last a while. This is the point the build went horribly wrong!! I had a perfectly functional vehicle that drove into the shed, it needed a bit of welding and some suspension and it could have driven out as an even more functional vehicle. I started cutting the low rider bits with my brand new tungsten carbide chop saw and huge pile of free radar metal. The saw kept cutting bits the grinder started grinding and the welder started welding bits and before you knew it a chassis rail happened all by itself. Then two rails then my poor landy was in bits all over the place and the cuttoff saw went through the old chassis! This is also why I was interested in team Idris's current chop as had I just kept welding to the original chassis it would have been out the shed and been a functional toy instead of an almost abandoned project waiting it's turn.
  19. The type of springs will you employ may well dictate the amount and positioning of dampers. I also chose to move my airshocks inside the chassis. Moving your shocks inboard will also move your shocks away from the chassis instead of towards (as long as your roll centre is above the axle) it under articulation and is half the reason I did it that way.When stiff enough to prevent excessive roll, they'll also assist with avoiding the front diving under braking. I also employed a one link as you intend to but I used an SU joint from Frogfab in Canada. This is because I wanted 30º of articulation and didn't want anything to bind if something ever broke. The crossmember I made for it is in the picture. The surface area of the ball is quite large. They do compromise ground clearance right in the wrong place but they also protect the front prop, mine hangs down 5" below the chassis. They also allow much greater vertical wheel travel without extending the slip joint on the front prop depending on where you put the joint. Remember your pinion angle at ride height as it will only ever be right once. A rod end as you suggest with the 30mm shank and bore would be well up to the job as long as the radial and angular deflections are within your parameters. Be careful with creeper joints, they're very strong but have very poor angular deflection at just over 12º each way, not the 40º as advertised. You could always do that digitally with a hall sensor and reluctor off your handbrake or somewhere? I think that three inches will be vital to you, the difference in the angle of your prop at say 20" vs 23" is 1 1/2" of wheel travel at the diff, that might be 4" at the wheels in articulation. I'm humbled at the interest in my build, I'll resurrect the thread and carry it on from where it left off.
  20. The lightweight will probably look better with a slightly longer wheelbase, even a regular 88" needs to be about 91" to put the wheel in the middle of the arch. You'll probably end up with a much longer wheelbase than that to keep decent length props. Remember that as you extend the A frame rearwards that the forces on it become very much greater. The mounting points need to be very robust indeed and ideally spaced further apart than standard. Perhaps you could redesign the chassis to keep it lower for longer and have the a frame mounts on top of the rail before it steps up at the tub outriggers? I made a chassis the width of a land rover one but put holes through it with an oval tube and used creeper joints on the outside of it. The joints were at an angle but had enough misalignment to manage the travel OK. The creepers also have a little bit of give in them also reducing the loadings on the chassis and everything. Could you tell us the distance from the pinion flange to the centre of the axle on the 404's please? For the front do you mean inboard radius arms or a onelink which attaches like inboard radius arms at the axle but has a central pivot under the gearbox somewhere? How much shorter is the stubby box than the already stubby 200tdi setup? Are you familiar with the Rakeway shortened rear output shaft and housing? It'll save you nearly three inches which is probably a lot in that. http://www.rakeway.co.uk/page12.html Don't shoot me or hate me too much but if you're going to change the engine and box, is there a transaxle setup that would work instead? Obviously it depends if it's going to do any road miles due to the gearing but maybe something to consider that would allow you to leave the suspension more or less as is. Other than the rear trailing arms the rest should be fine with not too silly tyres on. I don't. the last thread I had was my old stage one which grew a set of sumb portals. After that thread I made another chassis for it and put a cummins engine in and totally reworked it to the point that the only land rover bit was the windscreen and it wasn't really a land rover any more, so I didn't think it relevant here. I also only got to work on it infrequently as I worked overseas so the thread kinda lost momentum, I only got two weeks off some years but now I jacked my job in maybe more progress will happen with it. Of relevance to the lightweight is that I chose the sumb axles based on the diff position and short diff nose. It uses A frames back and front giving high roll centres to clear the body at 30º of articulation with 52" tyres and to get decent link separation. Side slope stability should be good too but the body will move a lot at speed on bumps. The other thing I'm working on just now which was supposed to be a wee quick scrapheap challenge type build so I had a toy while the other thing's getting built is a Volvo C304 buggy which I put a chevy v8 in and a most ridiculous front suspension on that I'm frankly too embarrassed to make public till I finish it and see if it works first. It's 6x6 and maybe pivot steer as well. It has an lt95 so almost relevant here but again, I doubt it would be of much interest to many here on a landy forum. My buggies are just toys, having portals with big tyres and a poor steering lock would make them hopelessly uncompetitive in any competitions these days where squeezing between trees has more value than any kind of cross country performance. They may be suitable as marshals vehicles however as both will have fairly decent crank driven hydraulic pumps and winches.
  21. How much shorter do you intend to make them? I used unimogs at work, have a 418 myself and numerous friends with older mogs. I don't think I've ever found them too wide under any circumstance I've ever been exposed to. Is there a class of competition you need to conform to that requires an especially narrow vehicle? I understand if it's to fit within the profile of the lightweight. I'm impressed with the machining you're doing. I think you could only work with the earlier series one or two hubs that were steel, the later ones are unweldable. I've found Atkinson Vos very helpful although they do charge like a wounded bull, I'd heartily recommend AC Price and also hear good things about South Cave Tractors for Unimog parts. The portal drop will really help your clearance of the body work flexing with big tyres. What are your plans for drivetrain and suspension? I'm building a couple of portal axled buggies just now so I'm very interested in your progress.
  22. I'd suggest neither one is interesting enough if he's a collector. The white one you posted has the steering wheel on the left and the green one has it on the right. Which side is good for you? Give us some more information about his other cars and hobbies and maybe the collective here can come up with some more ideas. Some idea of budget would be useful. I'd suggest an old series one which is very collectible or maybe an ex military one but we can point you in the right direction when you get back to us.
  23. WOW, that thing has some serious engineering in it but it probably has more in common with an aeroplane than a defender. Shame the time lapse was cut short. The Bowler brand carries a huge amount of credibility as they make some awesome stuff but I doubt many have been put to work. Would be like getting groceries in a formula one car. I'm not sure how that thing in the video would fair carrying an IBC of drinking water and a four ton trailer with a drill rig on it on an unsurfaced road? Possibly better than I imagine. The train of thought puts me in mind of the Foers Ibex which in my mind is probably how I imagine the defender should have gone had it been developed. John Foers was way ahead of his time 30 years ago. I'm interested in your earlier comments about wheel travel. Has the rear wheel achieved full droop by the second picture? It seems massively over damped? Any footage of a standard defender at the same place and speed? Second time I'm writing this, never ever ever buy a new apple computer, they used to be good, now they're garbage, living on their name, trying to be better, lighter and more efficient than before but made cheap and nasty and failing miserably when you actually need them. Remind you of any other modern brands?
  24. You'd be as well comparing a panda to a quad bike as far as relevance to the defender replacement is concerned. We had an Audi 90 quattro years ago that had locking centre and rear diffs, it was way better than a defender on light snow and ice.but it's equally irrelevant to a discussion on utility vehicles. Neither a quad nor a panda can carry half a ton of supplies with a team over relatively bad terrain. You can push through surprisingly thick scrub with a defender that you can't do with a quad bike, there's a place for everything. What we're hopefully discussing here are technical aspects of the vehicle in the spy photos. Many people think of the defender as the ultimate off roader when it just never has been, it's always been pretty carp. It's not that good at carrying things, it's not very well made, the transmissions are made of cheese, the chassis are made from something so thin you could wrap a turkey for the oven with it. They're noisy, slow and uncomfortable. We all know this so why do we like them? I think Dailysleaze hit the nail on the head with many of his comments.
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