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Jamie_grieve

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Everything posted by Jamie_grieve

  1. As said already, all the V8 boxes are the same in this regard. I have a Chev 6.2 V8 on a 101 gearbox and can confirm there are no dramas although on the diesels at least the nose of the starter requires taking a bit out of the 101 bellhousing. The bolt pattern is the same on the 6.2/6.5 diesels and all the Chev V8 petrol engines. In addition to the larger splines, the LT95 also requires a smaller spigot bush or bearing than other Land Rover gearboxes. The Samurai conversions also bolt to the bottom half of the bell housing which is a good thing. Depending on what you're doing, the front output on your transfer case has a different flange and is longer than a RRC or 101 so you'll either need to keep your double cardan shaft or swap it for standard as it's rebuilt. I know what you mean about the diesels, they are a poor engine in many ways but they are light tiny for their displacement and the torque at low revs is very good and they rev well which is why I put up with them. I'd like to bolt an SAE 3 bellhousing to the chev engine. If I can find a way to do that you can have my adaptor plate.
  2. Following with interest too. Can you measure from the axle centre line along the diff back to the end of the pinion spline to remind me how long the diff is as standard please? The length of your prop shafts will probably dictate the amount of useable suspension travel you can use. the portal offset means you can go up 10" in tyre size for the same amount of body chopping or alternatively and preferably, remove anything previously fitted (probably lots? Bump stops, cranked trailing arms, longer springs etc) to reduce bump travel and keep it as low as possible. This will give you more prop shaft angle to play with for more travel and lower the C of G. Just to emphasise what the lads have been saying already about the forces and other than the axle mounts, under no circumstances can you use any part of the original rear trailing arms which are made of cheese and the chassis mount for them with the three bolt holes for the front of trailing arm needs reworked for extra strength as they crack really easily when you start to load them up. Below pics for reference are on different vehicles on standard axles with 7.50 tyres used hard. As you can see there's no margin at all for adding portals and big tyres so these mounts need completely reworked. The vertical separation of your links on the axle will determine the forces involved. This will also change the suspension geometry. The TRIAGED calculator on Pirate might be worth a look. Off Road Armoury does some nice boxed chassis brackets which would allow you to use 1.25" joints. The radius arms on the front are easy to punch through the outriggers too, reinforcement needs to happen here too. Any pics? Good luck and have fun with it!!
  3. I realise this is an ancient thread but this is exactly a question I have. I'm looking at steering Sumb portal axles with large tyres fitted. My current options seem to be: 1. Heavy truck steering box & associated pump. 2. Hydro assist using 4 bolt landrover parts I have lying around and a GAZ 66 steering cylinder. 3. Original manual steering box with vickers link from an old tractor or complete setup from a GAZ 66. With all the experience gained since this was posted, has anybody any real world knowledge on this subject? I'm thinking of option 2 being the preferred option just now as there's no real fabrication of steering components required. At present it's off road only but I'd like to keep my options open. Any input much appreciated.
  4. Not ideal for setting up a trigger wheel perhaps but good enough to get going is a 'field fix' method some may find of interest: Oil poured down the plug hole will give enhance the movement of the piston and give a more accurate limit either way than a screwdriver or something down the plug hole. Even dial indicators are a pain because of the angle of the hole. Once you start playing with your map the TDC will just be a reference point. The knock sensor will sort the timing out for you once it's running.
  5. You can put coiler width axles on with series wheels and it 'hardly fouls at all on the front but more importantly with coiler width doesn't rub on the inside of the rear tub. I cut the top of my wheel boxes out and got way better articulation available to me. For the front, I just pulled hard at the 10 o'clock position (LH) and 2 o'clock position (RH) on my front wings to set them out a bit and they never rubbed with 900 x 16's on. If you like the skinny look you could put some Austin Gipsy rims on which are identical to Land Rover except more inset. Arches just look wrong on a series in my humble opinion. The PAS box on the Santana is a good unit, I would say they didn't upgrade so much as completely redesign the whole steering. It's way better than the current coiler setup and twice as strong. It's unbelievable how weedy Defender steering components still are. The Santana chassis rails are wider so the drag link needs shortened if fitting to a series.
  6. For reference purposes I enclose a few pictures of a Santana front axle. It is based on a series swivel but uses taper roller bearings instead of railko bushings but has the same four bolt fixing for the king pins. The swivel ball has series type bolt PCD rather than the coiler one. The narrowest part of the front half shaft is between the CV and the splines for the drive flange, this measured 27.5mm. (the rear half shafts are 31mm in a banjo version of the Salisbury). Wheel bearings and all oil seals despite the Santana packaging are all identical to Land Rover as is the ten spline front diff. To put the Santana swivel and hub assembly on a series you could use the half shafts from a stage one and bolt it together to a series axle or if you didn't mind it the coiler width which lets you use larger tyres just narrow the spring perches and bolt the whole axle on using the Santana U bolts and spring pads which are much stronger than Land Rover ones. You can also see the steering is much heavier duty too. The ten spline inner is of no consequence in my experience. They are high quality components and a lot of LR 24 spline stuff is of inferior quality in later years. I doubt many will run out to find a Santana axle for this purpose but I think it's good to at least share. I gave my Santana axles away partly because KAM couldn't sell me lockers for them and partly because I broke yet another leaf spring and changed the direction of my project. Great axles for a road vehicle but no advantages at all for an off roader I'd say.
  7. How does it compare to the Autodesk Fusion 360 or inventor which is free as well? I've been looking into learning a drawing package and went through a few Solidworks tutorials and a few on Autodesk but didn't have the time to go further. I was interested in Solidworks as it seems to be industry standard but as a Mac user it was pain using VM ware or Parallels and constant operating system updates which was why I stopped using it. The Autodesk seems to tick most of the boxes and runs native on a Mac.
  8. http://www.haultech.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=700&start=20 Great build, guys a genius. Did anybody else see his Subaru rear caliper swap to gain a handbrake? Might be useful info for anyone doing fiddle brakes or a transfer case swap without a brake on it.
  9. i'll grab the popcorn. Lol, it's kinda heading that way. The poor thing's still not getting any prettier. One day I'd like to build something nice. Maybe with shiny bits like other people do. I made a wee bit of progress but not as much as I'd have liked. I was a bit pathetic with my efforts this week. Feeble excuses aside at least the front axle's under the thing and it moves. I'm fairly pleased with the low rider stance as the last thing I want is something that has the centre of gravity of a monster truck. It sits almost level with my 88" posing as a 90. My 88" is full of scrap in this shot and would have sat a bit higher but it gives a good indication. I wasted too much time faffing with prop shaft bits and wandering around in circles rather than achieving progress. Luckily my hoard of old prop bits came in handy. I used the angles of the various yokes and a centre bearing with a triple labyrinth seal normally used on rock crushers to find the maximum possible up travel and still clear the starter motor then built a new front chassis to accommodate the new full bump height. This is about 7 inches higher than standard. I've got my engine about two inches lower than standard crank height to make everything more awkward. The chevy starter sits quite low above the prop. I'm using a 101 gearbox originally to keep a nice short drive train but it's actually counting against me here. I might put a standard range rover LT 95 in and get a longer front prop and one link happening and reduced angles all round. The current one link with 101 box will be around 52" long and use an SU ball joint. The extra up travel and low engine is also giving all kinds of packaging problems. I'm not sure how the PTO for the front winch is going to work and there's no room any more for a hydraulic pump setup like Team Idris has as the diff lock actuator is too close to the crank. My plan at this stage is to build an A frame upper and two lower arms for the rear. I'd welcome any input from anybody who would suggest why a four link might be a better setup? The build would almost identical in terms of cost and time, in fact, the four link would be easier than the A frame possibly. I have a bunch of 1.25" Creeper joints from Off Road Armoury (who were great to deal with and very helpful) with which I could build a four link. I'd use another SU joint I already have for the ball on the A frame which has no restrictions to rotation and +/- 20Âș for up and down. Intuitively I'd say the A frame and links would be stronger and give me a roll axis in the ballpark of where I'd want it with the front whereas the four link setup in my mind would struggle to give the triangulation I'd want with the link lengths required for decent travel and the separation available within the width of a Land Rover chassis. I can achieve the same anti squat with both setups but feel metalastic bushings in the A frame will add strength and durability not found in the fancy rod end style joints.
  10. I disagree, just because one app is bad you'd junk the more effective GPS platform..? That it operates with GPS and GLONASS for the last 5 years and all the good apps have grown with that functionality is not to be considered? Can you tell me which android app has worked as long as any of the IOS ones? I keep a dual sim Samsung on Android as standby. the only app which comes close is Polaris GPS: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.discipleskies.android.polarisnavigation&hl=en For comparison: http://gps.motionx.com
  11. You're asking for two completely separate functions here. One is a sat nav and the other is a GPS, two completely different things for very different jobs, I think that's why you might be confused. The hardware is simple, your choice of Android or Apple device. The software is your choice of any of the big players software, you can put Tom Tom or Garmin in your phone / tablet if you want but there's much better alternatives too. You'll switch between apps when you want to go from sat nav to GPS. If you put a post code for example into a GPS it will give you a bearing and a distance to follow whereas a sat nav will give a route. Edit: I just tried a random look at a town in BC called Inuvik to try it out. It has functionality in 14 different map types at that location. I'm 6853km's from there at 282Âș. It took less than a minute to open the app and check. MotionX GPS by a long shot for me, you download the maps beforehand in your choice of road or terrain or whatever and, as I said earlier, it has massive functionality.
  12. Bit of a thread resurrection here. We dragged the poor old thing out the weeds there at the weekend, surprisingly it started on the first pull and made for some entertainment before sticking it in the shed for a wee makeover. I'm at home on leave for a week and wanted to do something with it. The plan is to stick a pair of Sumb axles on it to take decent sized tyres.The Sumb axles are because of easy Land Rover compatibility compared to the above mentioned TRM ones. The diffs on the Sumb axles can be configured for right hand drop and thus a reasonable amount of suspension travel can be created without excessive ride height due to engine clearance issues. The Sumb axles unlike the Unimog axles don't need a pinion conversion as the splines on the input are the same as the sliding part on a Land Rover prop shaft and also the yoke from a V8 Discovery slides right on there without even the need for a flange. The plan is for a one link at the front and an A frame and trailing arms at the back. I doubt I'll have time to do the back this week but I hope to make progress with the front. That's the axle mocked up at ride height. I've shifted the track rod from the back to the front for now but I'll have to make steering arms to get the Ackerman angle happening again. Steering arms will be easy as the king pins are underneath but I doubt it'll happen this year. Same for a disc conversion too. I'll probably run cables for the diff locks and ditch the pneumatic setup. I plan to go with mechanical steering just now but hydro is on the cards for later. If I go hydro I'll also ditch the panhard in favour of an A frame and lower links to raise the roll centre and keep the wheels away from the body and increase side slope stability. Dramas just now are getting the front prop to clear the starter motor and making the one link a sensible shape. The prop needs to be in two parts with a centre bearing and preferably with a CV joint at the transfer case. I was just looking at Disco 3 props on the web there which kinda have all the bits I need. The two piece prop is only because I want a sensible ride height and centre of gravity and my driving style likes up travel too.
  13. I'd suggest simply using a modern smart phone or tablet with a good app such as motionX GPS. I used to go around all day every day with a Garmin GPS as part of my job and often found myself using a smart phone when I simply wanted to share a track or data with a colleague. I also nearly got into a fight in a bunker in Iraq when a bloke wouldn't accept that I was getting a GPS fix on my phone and his fancy receiver couldn't get a fix. Things have changed a lot in ten years. These apps use open source maps which don't need an internet connection after you load them, work most countries, are super easy to leave waypoints, tracks, georeference photographs and share. They can also automatically check in or post your position should you wish others to monitor your progress. They give average speeds, elevation, choice of coordinate systems and map types as default. The same device can also be used as a sat nav with a different app and anything else you can imagine from parts catalogues to proximity of food or fuel, you can even call people!! Using a phone or any device whilst driving obviously has it's limits with the law and I'm assuming the co pilot will be using it. I've yet to be convinced by a modern GPS over a smart phone but I'd also be interested if there's something new and exciting in that department.
  14. I've finally dragged my long suffering stage one out the weeds and am going to stick a one link on the front of it with a Sumb portal axle. One problem with one link suspension is the pinion angles for which I'm looking to use a CV joint. Does anyone know of a CV joint which can bolt to the flange of an LT transmission? It's off road only so a good bodge would work just as well. I'm also going to have a centre bearing in the front prop to get round the starter motor and have some up travel on the suspension. Anybody any ideas for how they managed this as well? Will the Freelander CV work? Anyone got a Jeep with a CV equipped front prop? Thanks.
  15. I'm guessing you have flexitor for a 1960 as the leafs didn't come out till after. I put a P76V8 in mine and limited slip Nissan diffs. It ran the quarter mile in 16 seconds with the original gearbox and transfer case. For me the biggest problem is the wheels falling off followed closely by the ten inch drums if you do go faster. I never actually had the wheels come off but the setup's quite scary. The rear would be easy to sort out but the front is the problem. I gave up on mine in the end as I couldn't think of a way of keeping some originality and something that worked at the same time. If you do have a later vehicle with leafs then there's no dramas at all, just fit what you like. The transfer case is really easy to turn into a three stick case where you can disengage either the front or rear drive in high or low to suit the terrain. Very unusual and also very strong and well up to American V8's.
  16. Many thanks for all the replies. When I took it apart properly I realised my mistake. Looks like I'll have to get the middle of the drive flange from the ZF in the middle of the input gear. No dramas, all part of the fun. I know just the man for the job, he may keep us updated with any progress too.
  17. Does anyone have the dimensions of the various splines used on the LT 230's? I'm particularly interested to see if the main shaft from a ZF S5 24 gearbox will fit. I've got three of these sitting in the shed but the only LT 230 I have to hand has much finer splines but I remember older ones had a coarse, maybe ten spline input from the LT77's they were fitted with? Equally anyone with an old gearbox lying around that could stick some verniers on the main shaft that would be much appreciated. The S5 24 is a nice compact gearbox with a 6.34 1st gear which would give me a nice crawler gear for the bigger tyres I want to use. I also have one with a hydraulic pump on it I'd like to use which would leave the PTO on the LT 230 free for a mechanical winch. It has ten splines on the output and is very similar by eye to what I remember the old coarse Land Rover output spline to be.
  18. For the cab tilt, why not use some coil springs near the front and keep it all mechanical? I'd never seen this arrangement until I recently got a Gaz 66 and it works really well. Can you post a few more pics of your hinges and lock assembly? I've been meaning to make a tilting cab for years. How does the steering column get on with the tilting cab?
  19. Doh, just read the article again, It's French, dyslexia had kicked in there.
  20. I think it's amazing how a bunch of really switched on technical guys like you lot are can get so hung up on how the wheels look when there's so much else going on with that vehicle. Being around military vehicles so often they just look normal to me and don't really draw a second glance from my perspective. They actually look odd to me only by virtue of not having an obvious CTIS line. The portal offset looks like the rear diff hangs below the axle centre line, maybe something to do with the axle case strength? The trailing arms look awfully standard, I hope they're not. It's Finish with a French made dash or what? Cooker / sink thing is awesome. I like the grille too.
  21. Is there any evidence for a difference in performance of a tall thin tyre on wet clay, wet grassy side slopes, ice & snow, fuel consumption etc compared to a wider tyre? Should we be comparing contact patches rather than diameters?
  22. Any hydraulic system wants to be as cool and stable as it can be but real life dictates it'll get hotter than it's supposed to. If you calculated the right size of cooler and tank to build and sell your hydraulic winch pack commercially you'd be building a 110 to fit it all in so duty cycle and lifespan come into it. In real life if you can keep your fluid below 100ÂșC you'd be doing well with a 20l tank and maybe a small cooler on the return line if you're getting a good bit of use out your winch. You'll probably experience spikes double that and run it till it smells. What have you got for temp and pressure gauges? 30cc isn't a big pump, maybe a bigger pump turning slower might produce less heat for the application? 32 or 48? Hmmm, 32's like a 10 weight motor oil and 48's like a 20 weight if that helps you decide? The thicker the oil the more heat it makes at start up and less mechanical efficiency but better volumetric efficiency as it gets hotter. vice versa for thinner. Team Idris (Steve) takes a bit to do with hydraulic cooling packs as part of his work I think? Maybe he can offer some better advice with oil types, cooling and using a hydraulic winch in challenge events from practical experience rather than my fleet recovery and engineering training type experience. I'd probably try both types and watch the temperatures under similar loads and go for the cooler one. It really is application specific. Edit: I think you mean ISO 46, not 48? I should have said you get high performance synthetic oils nowadays which might be better than regular mineral stuff we chuck in machines. I don't have an application chart or anything for it but modern harvesters and suchlike are probably running it.
  23. I've got a couple of alternators recently and suffered low charging. All three were provided by reputable dealers, all were made in China with a little 'test sheet' supposedly showing a test curve and claiming 13.8V output and whatever amperage. All three undercharge at 12.9V for two of them and 26.1 for the other. I ordered them when overseas, no warranty to take them back and too old now but I wondered if the bulbs were at fault too? They all go out but I did wonder if they could limit something? Once the Alternator is excited it should self sustain so the bulb shouldn't matter? Does all the field winding current go through the bulb or just to start it? Any gurus out there? I also have an interest in renewable energy and there's plenty of folks using neodymium magnets in converted alternators for self excitation and larger power outputs. Any relevance to the winch challenge guys?
  24. Thread revival here but it fell off the radar for a while. I hope that's of some use to you. The intended application is to sit on top of the centre axle and transmit the drive from one of the transfer outputs to the rearmost axle. Being fitted with portal axles means the driveline can be much lighter than a regular truck and it is a really small truck anyway. This type of yoke design is a carry over from post war American designs used then in the Warsaw pact countries and isn't as strong as the flange type yokes we use I believe but it handles about a 20:1 reduction from a 7.5 litre diesel so should be fine for anything in your current build.
  25. With any open circuit hydraulic system the constant flow from the pump will divert through the relief valve whatever fluid is not being used for the load when the spool is moved from the open condition. This generates heat, you're better to open the spool fully when using the winch instead of 'feathering' the control unless you have a good size of tank. This gets more work out of the system for the heat input. I'd suggest tank size and cooling is crucial to effective operation and decent filters in case something goes wrong. You'll lose almost a third of your input power to heat.
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