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About MikeAK

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    Darwen Lancs UK

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  1. Right looks like I will probably go with the cam Elbekko suggested with standard lifters. Yes L19MUD it would have been much easier 😉. At the time it wasn't very convenient to take the engine out so I was going for a quick fix, which almost but not quite worked. Now I've got the opportunity to remove the engine in some ways I'm quite pleased it didn't work so now I can do a proper job! Unfortunately it's on hold for a few weeks as my garage floor is being screeded tomorrow so I'll have to give that time to cure before running an engine crane etc. over it. Mike
  2. Rang Leyand Paints tech advice line today. They stated their floor paint can be used when floor moisture content is less than 8%. So I will monitor it with a damp meter and wait til its been consistently below 8% at several points across the floor for several days. Mike
  3. Hi, Thanks for the info. 28 days is shorter than I was expecting, which is good news. I had been looking at the Leyland trade floor paint, so that's what I'll go with. It's stocked at my local hardware suppliers as as well which makes life easier. Mike
  4. Ok radiator out and flushed it is then. Thanks for the cam recommendation, are you using standard lifters? From linked website "Can be used with standard OE lifters however, for better performance consider Rhoads Bleed Down Anti-Pump lifters" Will be using ARP studs, if they don't require re-torquing how do they maintain clamping force as the head gasket "settles"? I thought stretch bolts did this by acting as a spring or more traditional studs/bolts had to be re-torqued after a few hundred miles? Thanks Mike
  5. Hi, As the title I'm looking for recommendations for concrete floor paint for my garage please. It's being screeded this Saturday. It will be between 50mm and 100mm laid on an existing uneven and rough, but sound concrete floor. How long do I need to let it cure before painting? Thanks Mike
  6. Finally got some time on this again yesterday. All back together and and running a lot better but still not right. Now the very loud clacking from the rocker has gone I can hear other rumbles etc. Also still struggling to pass MOT on emissions, although vastly better HC still to high and slight visible blue smoke when revved for fast idle test. So as I've decided this is a keeper, I'm going to pull the engine out and do a proper re-build. So a few more questions! Will the manifolds clear the bulkhead if the engine is removed with all the front ancillaries removed but the ra
  7. It will be weekend before I spend any time on it again, so I'll let it soak till then and see what happens. Mike
  8. I put the head back on this last night and did a compression test. 5 and 7 are now up at 172 and 175 same as the rest but 3 is still a bit low at 150. A bit of oil down 3 and that was also mid 170s, so worn/stuck rings? But it's a distinct improvement on what it was, so I think I will put all back together and see if It will go through an MOT. If so at least I can use it and look for a second hand engine to rebuild properly. If it still fails I will put the car somewhere more convenient and and rebuild the current engine. Mike
  9. Hi all, Been away from this for a few days. Had another quick look today, cleaned up the head and checked it for warping. Can't get a 0.05mm feeler between head and a straight edge anywhere so I think head is sufficiently straight? Put a 50/50 mix of petrol/ATF in the bores and that hadn't run away, or even dropped after best part of an hour so I think the rings are OK? Given the inlet valves are on 3 and 7 are leaking and I think I can see evidence on a leak (or the beginnings of one) on the gasket between 3 and 5 I think I will re-seat the valves and replace the broken rocker
  10. Not sure about oil consumption. Car was dropped off at my house and I have only driven about a mile each way to MOT garage. No noticeable smoke from exhaust though.
  11. Mine were not hard to drill at all, so assuming you have the standard bolts you should be OK. Centre punch the bolt head to get you started in the centre, the a pilot drill then size of the bolt shank (or very slightly less). The bolt head on mine cracked off slightly before I got to the bottom of the head, probably due to the cylinder head clamping force. Take it steady and you will be OK Mike
  12. ThreePointFive I feel your pain, just had the same although only one bolt. FridgeFreezer has link to my thread on that with how I got it out. I only used a die grinder because I couldn't get a large enough drill in. If you have access the bolts were actually quite easy to drill so just drill down the centre of the bolt head to the depth of the head with the correct size of drill. Mike
  13. It wasn't the sealing of the exhaust valve I was thinking of. The rocker has a significant dish in the end causing massive slack in the valve train hence the engine making a "clacking" noise. My train of thought was that significantly reduced valve opening on an inlet would restrict air intake and reduce compression pressure but reduced opening exhaust valve, which this rocker is on, would not. Since then I have put the head combustion chambers up on the bench and filled them with petrol. Cylinders 3 and 7 leaked away in about 5 minutes into the inlet ports so leaky inlet valves. 1 and 5
  14. Yes Ed was definitely Righty tighty, lefty loosey 😄 Elbekko as soon as the bolts "cracked" they were easy to remove using fingers and look to be in good condition, the block threads also look perfect. It's as though the bolt head flanges were stuck to the head (the one I drilled/ground off definitely was). Maybe someone in the past used what they thought was lubricant under the bolt heads? It's a mystery. Fridgefreezer yes I've already been looking at those and will use them if I end up doing any sort of rebuild. Thanks everyone. Iv'e started a new thread in the RR for
  15. Hi all, I have a p38 4.6 with engine problems. First some history. I bought this cheap with no MOT multiple electrical woes and a clacking engine (yes I'm mad). Took it for an MOT and it failed on a couple of ball joints, rear pads too low and emissions miles off - over 2000 HC and high CO. Fitted new ball joints and pads. Sorted the electrical problems. Then had a look at the emissions. The left hand Lambda sensor wires were mashed over where they entered the sensor (more bodgery/ham fistedness which seems to be common theme with this car). Replaced lambda sensor
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