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MikeAK

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About MikeAK

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    Darwen Lancs UK

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  1. I did check that sensor was seated properly and it does seem to be. The reason I suspect the ECU is that the fault reported is "Front Right Wheel Sensor Open Circuit" but it isn't it measures the same as the other 3 wheel sensors. I measured this right at the ECU plug which also eliminates the wiring. The fault is present at immediately the ignition is switched on and when cleared by Nanocom comes back immediately. If it was the sensor not seated properly and not seeing the reluctor ring the fault would not reappear until the vehicle was moving. At least that's my understanding of how it works, happy to be corrected by someone with more knowledge of the system though. Already ordered a second hand ECU from Ebay. Only £12 including postage, so worth having as a spare even if not needed. Mike
  2. Had a look at the ABS Front Right Sensor today and it wasn't open circuit, measured about 990R at the plug on the inner wing. So plugged it back in and measured on the ECU connector same 990R. Measured all the others also at the ECU, all about the same value within 5R. So must be a faulty ECU? Second hand one ordered from Ebay will see what happens with that fitted next week. Mike
  3. Iv'e found it! The rain rain stopped for a while so I had another go. The splice is at the bottom of the lower dash adjacent to the RHS of the tunnel near the heater outlet. The route the wires take is from the diag connector across the tunnel below/behind the heater (not sure how, didn't need to get in that deep) and emerges at the location in the pictures. The L-line splice is also very corroded but just about hanging together, so that will get replaced as well. Started raining again so it's tomorrows job now. Linked it all together with croc clip leads to try it and I can talk to all the ECUs now Mike
  4. Elbekko, unfortunately not there is only one wire on each terminal in the diag connector and they disappear up behind the dash. I suspect the spice will be in the middle for the loom to branch off to the HEVAC unit. so if I run a new wire I will have to get into there anyway. I will just have to start digging into the dash when the weather picks up. I'm having to do this outside on the drive and rain has stopped play for today. Mike
  5. Making some progress. As suggested I popped out the crimps and have given them a good scrubbing with a toothbrush and vinegar, didn't have any de-ionised water but give them a good washing with contact cleaner. I will pack with silicone grease when I have finished fault finding. All problems gone now apart from one. I can't connect to any of the ECUs on the OBD II bus (diag connector 7 and 15). I thought this would be due to the corroded connector as signals go through it. However that is not the case. Checking for continuity the K-line is open circuit between the diag connector ant the connector I have been looking at (C102). I put a temporary wire in to bypass the open cct and I can now connect to everything on that bus apart from HEVAC. Looking at the wiring diagram that suggests that the problem is at S214 (splice?) see pdf below. Although RAVE Electrical Trouble Shooting Manual show connector and earth locations it doesn't show splice locations (or at least mine doesn't). If anyone knows where that splice is, it will save me dismantling more of the dash than I need to looking for it. While I had the temporary link on I read the ABS codes and the only fault is Right Front Wheel Sensor. So it looks like the total cost of repairs for all the various electrical problems will be about £20 for a new sensor. The rest was just putting right various bodges and poor workmanship the previous owner had been charged £100sss for. Thanks to everyone for suggestions and help so far. Mike Diag CCT.pdf
  6. Thanks for the camshaft suggestion I'll have a look at that. I found the cause of my remaining electrical problems. See connector pictures below. I think housings will clean up OK but some of the crimps are beyond cleaning. Does anyone know what connectors these are, I think they are Tyco/Amphenol 070 Multilock. But would be nice to have it confirmed by someone who knows for sure. Thanks Mike
  7. Hi, After about 2 years away from Landrover ownership, had several RR classics in the past, i have returned for some more punishment I got a cheap P38 from an acquaintance who had basically given up on it. Usual P38 story of various electrical gremlins, being charged large sums of money by various "Landrover specialists" who just seemed to bodge and make thing worse. Spent the weekend looking at and have got most of the electrical problems sorted, just an ABS and SRS warning lights to sort now. Engine also needs a new cam. Hopefully a couple of weeks and I will be able to take it for an MOT. Pictures not very good as not much space on the drive. Mike
  8. Hi, Might be worth having a look at Forscan https://forscan.org/home.html It does lots of what would normally be main dealer diagnostics and programming. I've used it for programming several Ford and Mazda keys as well as coding new ecu/modules etc. If you look at the website there's a fairly comprehensive list of whats supported on which models by the various versions. You use it with an ELM327 interface (ebay £10 - £20). Mike
  9. Hi, I had this a couple of years back, when you refitted the modulator did you put the clevis pin in the correct hole in the brake pedal? On mine ('92 hard dash) there were two, with it in the wrong hole the brakes were partially applied even with the pedal fully up so as soon as system pressurised the brakes locked up. Mike
  10. Bowie69 that's great. Thanks for the quick reply Regards Mike
  11. Hi, As the title, can anyone tell me what the thread type and size is for the bolts that fasten the bell housing to the rear of the engine. I need to pick up some bolts tomorrow to mount an engine on a stand but don't currently have access to one to check the size. Engine is from 1987 3.5 V8 RRC. Thanks Mike
  12. Hi, Attempted to change my rear callipers today, but the new ones don't fit! Its a 1992 3.9 Vogue SE with ABS. I ordered STC5889 (RH) and STC5890 (LH) which are listed in Microcat for my VIN Microcat also says mine should be attached with 7/16 UNF hex head bolts, but the ones fitted have M12 bolts with 12 point heads. The M12 bolts won't go though the holes in the new callipers. Also the hole spacing looks like it may be slightly different but its hard to tell. I suspect the rear axle has been changed at some point in the past. I've know there are metric and imperial callipers but I always thought that referred to the brake fluid fitting not the mounting bolts, or is it both? Also seen references to metric and imperial axles, so now I am completely confused. Does anyone know what part numbers of callipers with M12 mounting holes were fitted to Rangerover classics? Thanks Mike
  13. Hi, You could try looking at http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=56 free diagnostic sofware for EAS. The download also has pdf of instuctions to make diagnostic cable. I've used it several times to diagnose both classics and p38s. You get proper fault information, much easier than guessing at what the ecu is unhappy with. It also clears the fault codes and resets the system.
  14. Hi, Just checked on my 3.9 and that only has one nipple going to the fuel pressure regulator. But I remember my old 3.5 had two the second one going to the overrun vacuum switch which operated a relay to stop injection on overrun. This system was never fitted to 3.9 and 4.2 (as far as I know). the vacuum nipples are not on the plenum itself but on the separate casting the IAC screws into maybe that has been swapped for the wrong one at sometime in the past? In which case you could just blank off the extra nipple. On mine the cruise control has a separate electric vacuum pump and the vacuum reservoir for the heater controls is connected near the front offside of the plenum so I don't think it would be either of those. Mike
  15. Hi, My 1992 RRC has developed an intermittent air suspension fault. It intermittently does not "see" the vehicle speed and transmission Park signals. I have confirmed that these signals are missing at the ECU connector when the faults(s) are present, so it a wiring fault rather than an ECU fault. Also speedo and starter inhibit work correctly so the sensor/switches are OK. So before I start pulling out seats and carpets I'm wondering if anyone knows if the air suspension loom is integrated with the main wiring loom or if it's a separate plug in loom (like the engine injection loom). If it's a separate loom where is the plug located? I think that would be a good place to start looking. Thanks Mike
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