MikeAK
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Darwen Lancs UK
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Hi, I think the document Filip is referring to is this one. I just happened to have it handy after looking at a mates P38 today. Regards Mike EAS - System Information Document.pdf
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On the top ball joint I dismantled it's only the the split tapered nylon sleeve that's spring loaded to keep it snug around the pin. The pin is free to move up and down. Got it all back together this week. In the end as Escape said, I just adjusted it so that the oil seal flange (or whatever it's called) on the driveshaft was central to the seal recess in the axle case. I think that should be OK, I'll keep an eye on it for the seals leaking. Took it for MOT and it passed, no advisories. Happy days. Mike
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Hi Northward, Thanks for the info, had a search on youtube and found the video you mentioned. Thanks for the offer of a loan but I'll be able to come up with something similar with what I have lying around if I need to. Having got chance to have a go this afternoon as the rain stopped for a few hours, I have got the ball joints out. to say they put up a fight is an understatement! Now they are out I understand how the adjustment works. The upper ball joint is not a ball joint! It is a parallel sat in a split tapered nylon sleeve, the sleeve is spring loaded to keep it tight around the pin. The pin is free to move up and down when the swivel height is adjusted. I cut the old one open to see how it worked, pictures below. So I think my idea of measuring the gap between the top of the swivel and the bottom of the axle case adjacent to the top ball joint is valid. They are both flat machined surfaces so I punched the side of the swivel and the axel case so I can measure in the same place when I put it back together. Providing it was correct before disassembly, which I think it was as it all looked original ant the axle seals weren't leaking, it should be OK on re-assembly.
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Hi All, In the next few days I will be changing the swivel hub ball joints my P38. Reading the RAVE manual it says the swivel height has to be adjusted. But the procedure says to first fit the upper ball joint nut and tighten, then use the lower adjustment bush to set the height. How is the height adjusted? it looks like there can be no movement as the upper joint is fixed. It will probably all become apparent when I get it apart, but I would like to understand before I start so I can be sure to have everything I need before starting. Also how have others set the swivel height? I don't have the LR tool and would expect others wouldn't either given the price! My plan is to measure gap between the top of the swivel and the bottom of the axle case adjacent to the top ball joint and ensure this is the same after re-assembly. Thanks Mike
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Hi all, Thought I'd give an update on this now I've been driving it for a couple of months. Turners did send a new set of lifters out, these were the same as the first set just plain white box no branding or identification. These behaved in exactly the same way as the first set. I'm always suspicious of products where the manufacturer isn't prepared to identify themselves. So I decided it was time to bite the bullet and source some different known brand lifter. I found some BGA branded lifters that appear to be new old stock manufactured in 2010. Fitted these and the engine went quiet within a minute of starting and has been fine ever since. Prior to fitting them I dismantled one of the BGA ones to compare with one of the turners ones. I have no means of measuring the clearance between the outer case and the inner plunger, but feeling by hand the BGA ones had barely detectable clearance very hard to feel. In contrast the Turners lifters had easily felt clearance, much slacker in comparison. I think this was causing excessive leakdown? Googling around it seems that this is now a common problem, not just on RV8s but on many older engines. It seems that as OEMs stop making lifters for these older engines the supply is increasingly coming from China etc and are just not made to the correct specification. Problems seem to range from excessive leakdown to being made out of chocolate and destroying camshafts. Regards Mike
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Hi, Yes lifters are definitely full full of oil. I don't have an oil pressure gauge but the oil light goes out immediately the engine starts and doesn't comeback on for several seconds when stopping, also oil is visible at the rockers when running. I have spoken to Turners who are sending out a replacement set. Speaking to them they said they used to supply Ajusa lifters until recently but these are no longer available and they have changed to another brand. Will be fitting the replacement set this weekend. As a side note Turners have been brilliant with their customer service, so hopefully this will get sorted soon. Mike
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Hi, put this in International although it's a Range Rover as it's a generic V8 question. Hi just fitted a new cam and lifters to a 4.6 V8. The engine has now run for about 1 hour and the lifters are still very noisy. So I took off the rocker covers to had a look and noticed that the lifters seem to leak down very quickly over a few seconds. The attached video shows me manually turning the engine taking a valve from closed to open and the lifter leaking down. All lifter behave the same. lifter.m4v This surprised me as i would normally expect the lifters to hold up for several hours otherwise the engines would clatter every time they are started which normally only happens if left for several days. Rang Turners who supplied the cam and lifters and they recommended running it longer to see if it "settles down". I will do this but thought first I would double check the lifter preload in case I messed it up but all are correct in the 0.04" to 0.06" range. While doing this I emptied the lifters of oil to check the preload and it was very easy to push the oil out using a wood dowel pressing on the lifter cap by hand. in contrast the old lifters needed to be put in a vice to push the oil out which is what I have experienced before. So it seems like a radical difference between the old and new lifters. So I put one of the old lifters in the engine and bolted the rockers on with the cam at it's peak and after several hours the lifter had not leaked down. It seems to me that the new lifters have a far to high leak down rate, but would like peoples thoughts before getting back in touch with Turners. Thanks Mike
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Hi, thanks for the replies. Emailed Turners with the pictures, but got an automated message back saying office closed this week. Will ring next week and see what they have to say. Mike
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A few weeks ago I overheated my P38 4.6 on a play day. Got a radiator full of mud and didn't notice the temperature gauge hard over until steam came from under the bonnet! what a muppet I am! Since then it's been using water, about 1/2 an expansion tank over about 10 miles. Doesn't overheat as long as it's kept topped up, temp gauge sits bang in the middle. Put some UV dye in a couple of weeks ago but so signs of external leaks. Cooling system holds pressure on a pressure test at 1 bar when cold. Radiator hoses get very hard when hot so I assume combustion gas getting in the cooling system when the engine is hot. So yesterday I decided to investigate properly and did a compression test when hot. All cylinders around 175 to 180 psi apart from number 3 which is 145 psi. Followed that by a leak down test but was surprised to see no significant difference on number 3 and no bubbling in the expansion tank which I was expecting, but engine had cooled down somewhat by then. However obviously something wrong with number 3 so today I took off the left hand head and found this. Looks to me like a crack in the cylinder wall, but would like the opinions of people with experience of these things. The crack (if it is) is adjacent to one of the head bolt holes, which I supposed is the more stressed area of the bore. I presume the block must also be cracked behind the liner to allow passage of water/combustion gasses? Does this mean it's beyond top hatting? Thanks Mike
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Yes, getting on a year later, heater and outside temperature display working perfectly. Mike
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Hi, Just taken my P38 for MOT this morning and it passed 😀 But got an advisory on all the front axle swivel ball joint boots "Suspension arm ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated". The rubber has multiple cracks and will not last much longer, none of the cracks have yet punctured the rubber and the MOT tester said joints themselves are fine - no detectable play. So as the ball joints can be absolute sods to get out and I would rather keep the original joints as there is noting wrong with them, I would like to just replace the boots. But I haven't managed to find any. Does anyone know of a source for these? Regards Mike
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Hi, Mine was doing this. I took door cards off both front doors and checked microswitch operation which turned out to be perfect. I eventually tracked it down to a corroded connector in the left hand door pillar (I assume the right hand will have similar). It's accessible behind the where the rubber tube enters the pillar, just pull out the rubber and fish out the connector. I cleaned mine with switch cleaner and packed with dielectric grease. No problems 12 months later. Mike
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Have you tried re-syncing the keyfob? Maybe hey have got out of sync due to RF interference at the hospital P38 Range Rover Remote Fob Resynchronisation Procedure. If the battery in the fob has gone flat and has been replaced or the vehicle battery has been replaced or other things have rendered the fob unusable it may be necessary to resynch the fobs to the vehicle. 1. Make sure all doors, bonnet and boot are closed. 2. Make sure all exterior door handles are fully closed. 3. Put key in driver’s door lock 4. Press and hold the remote lock button 5. Whilst still holding the lock button in turn the key towards the rear of the vehicle. 6. Still holding the lock button in count to 10 7. Still holding the lock button in turn the key to the centre position 8. Still holding the lock button in remove the key from the door lock 9. Release the lock button 10. Try the remote buttons. You must do this on both remote fobs.
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MikeAK started following Mystery Tool
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I've just been given a box of old tools most of it useful stuff, but it also contained this. I have no idea what it is or what it's used for. Thought someone on here may know. The knurled knob at the bottom alters the position of the hook. The lever closes the jaws and doesn't move the hook. Mike
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Thanks Paul, I took a guess and of course have got them the wrong way round. I'll swap them over. Mike