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About MikeAK

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    Old Hand

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    Darwen Lancs UK

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  1. Took it for MOT this morning It Passed CO 0.4% HC 32ppm A world away from where it was before rebuild (high CO and 1500ppm HC). Of course being a Land Rover it wouldn't let me off that easily so it started leaking from the heater O rings on the way back! I knew it had a slight leak sometime time in the past because of staining on the carpet, but it's leaking properly now. So that's the next job, not too bad as I had to get to the heater anyway to change a faulty blend motor. Wonder what it will be after that... Thanks again Mike
  2. At last! Got it running today. Started straight away. Took me by surprise, I was expecting a bit of cranking. Ran it at 2000rpm for 5 mins with the wife looking for any major leaks, then switched it off and had a proper look round for leaks. Fortunately there were none. Then ran it again at 2000rpm for another 15 mins to finish off bedding the cam in. Very happy with it, it's much smoother than before and the idle is much more stable. Must be the longest engine rebuild ever! Started looking at it in August, although didn't pull the engine out till November. I blame pai
  3. Thanks all, having done some more reading it seems anything between 2000 and 3000rpm for 20 mins should be OK. It's not allowing it to idle that is the critical thing. I am using this oil from Smith and Allan. Although it doesn't say on the website I emailed them and it has a ZDDP content of 1300ppm and is ideal for older flat tappet engines. I also used high zddp assembly paste on the cam and followers. Snowing again today so delayed again Grrrr. thanks Mike
  4. After being delayed yet again by the weather (I'm too old for lying in the snow under a car!) but the engine is back in now just the ancillaries to fit. So if the weather co-operates it should be running tomorrow/Saturday. I'm trying to remember the cam bedding in procedure, there's nothing in rave. I seem to remember something like vary between 2000-2500rpm for 20 minutes. Does that sound right? Thanks Mike
  5. James It will be getting new cats when it all goes back together. Delayed again, life keeps getting in the way! Engine nearly ready to go back in now, put on the rockers on today and checked the tappet preload. It was around 70 to 85 thou across all the valves. Interweb suggests 20 to 60 thou is the range to go for, so I have ordered a shim kit. Depending what I can achieve with the shims is it better to go towards 20 or towards 60 if I can't get mid range? But why does it matter? Tappets have a range of about 100 thou (4mm) so as long as say 10 thou is allowed at each end for a bit
  6. I didn't actually speak to Turners about the conrod cap bolts, but went off this on their website ERR1772. Scroll down below product description. Mike
  7. I used new big end bolts, £3.60 each so £58 ish for 16. Not cheap but cheaper than having a used one let go. All back together now apart from tappets pushrods and rockers. Will finish tomorrow then I just need some decent weather to refit it. I also used ARP suds and nuts for the heads, way better than the stretch bolts. Mike
  8. Didn't get back onto rebuild this weekend, but back on this afternoon. Started checking crank dimensions before re-assembling and got very confused. Are the imperial dimensions for the mains in the engine overhaul manual (attached) complete bobbins or am I having a senior moment? The manual has metric dimensions of standard 63.487 to 63.500 mm and imperial 2.499 to 2.52 in min regrind size 62.979 to 62.992 mm and imperial 2.509 to 2.510 in 2.509 is bigger than the minimum standard size! Converting from the given
  9. Ordered big end bolts and a load of other stuff from Turners today (bit of a wallet bashing!). As you say not worth risking re-using for the price. Picked up block and crank from machining this afternoon, so should be able to get on with re-building this weekend. Mike
  10. Should be getting block and crank back from machining later this week, so getting everything together to start rebuild. In the engine overhaul manual it says the con rod bolts (ERR1772) are angle tightened (similar to head bolts) but doesn't mention they are "stretch" bolts and should replaced like it does for the head bolts. Looking on Turners website it says they are stretch bolts and should be replaced. Anyone know for sure which is correct? Thanks Mike
  11. Bowie69 I'll give it a go cleaning with petrol then. Rotors really are very scored where the lobes run against each other. There has been bits of metal or grit going through it, also evidenced by the crank and bearing scoring. That's why I want to make sure the oil cooler is thoroughly cleaned out. ThreePointFive thanks the pointer to Turners, will give them a look. Mike
  12. Well this hasn't progressed much, the local machine shop, small father and two sons business, where my block and crank are have been hit by Covid. Fortunately they are now recovering and expect to be back on the job next week. While waiting I have dismantled the front cover to check the oil pump. The rotors are scored and require replacing. Officially the front cover is replaced complete, quite expensive! I have found some places selling just rotors but they all come in a blue box! Don't fancy those for a critical component. Anyone know of any reputable source for these? Also I want
  13. Engine now completely dismantled. Crank definitely needs a regrind, main shells were all completely down to the copper and scoring on the crank journals. I'm amazed it wasn't noisier! Block and crank now with local machine shop for assessment. With his initial quick look he was unsure if bores would hone enough to remove scratches and still be in standard size spec or if it needs re-bore. He will check it properly and let me know next week. Just need to clean up all the remaining parts now then do the valves etc while waiting for machining. Mike
  14. Got back on this today, The engine is out! What a fight though, all the bell housing bolts were stuck tight had to get heat on them and buy a 9/16 single hex socket. When the came out they had some greenish looking loctite type substance on them. This seems to be a recurring theme on this car, so far the PO or whoever did work for him seems to have slathered bolts in whatever the the green stuff is and/or whacked everything up an impact gun. Then came to getting the RH head off, this fought back in similar way to the left hand head when I first had that off a couple of months back. C
  15. When I lower the the engine as recommended by Escape to gain access to the bell housing bolts. How far can I lower it without straining anything. This is the first P38 I've owned so am not familiar with it, I don't want to break anything! Thanks again Mike
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