Jocklandjohn

I've used stuff from the yacht or building trades lines - the non-silicone PU sealant which you can overpaint. Some of it seems a bit fussy about what its going onto (some I used a year or two ago hated etch primer) but the best so far has been Soudal FixAll Crystal which is a clear version of FixAll Flexi. Its proved stable on the various painted surfaces and has not shed any of the paints I've used over it. Not expensive either.

Mine jammed during a pump rebuild and came out of the dealer 'stuck' after they did a test (which it passed) but which caused months of buggeration (loads of smoke, no power, eating fuel) until I actually did what Maverick did and got the manual and read up to try and diagnose the problem. Took cap off, removed diaphragm and found the assembly jammed by the wee pin at bottom. Went back to overhauler and pointed out the problem. *Apparently* (they told me later) they got the horizontal pin out by somehow poking a welding rod into the pump and tacking it on then it took 2 lads to pull it free (w/pump still in vehicle). Then they had no spare pin and Bosch UK didn't have any as "they never need them" (they said), and one had to come from Germany. The pump guys were perplexed and said this was the first time they'd seen this problem. However talking with them a few months later they said another 200di of same vintage came in a few weeks later with exactly the same problem. They had a suspicion that the newer low-sulphur diesel provides less lubrication and this might have some negative effect on the pin.

Buy a couple of 1L bottles of EP90 and ATF with the pull-out flex pipe inside and you can use that to fill each 'box - you can get about half out of each before you need to refill from your big bottle. Basically you're buying the fluid and getting a free filler! You'll get several years use out of one before it gives up. This kind:

Cheers, thanks for clarification - it had me puzzled!

Thanks Ralph - so the siting of the wee box on the heater body is simply convenience not 'thermostatically' important. Grand!

Probably a stupid question...but....I'm asking it! Curious whats the box/unit that goes on the heater assembly with the thermal paste for, and how does that interact with the slider on the binnacle? I'm presuming there's some for of thermostatic control stuff going on?

Good use of old computer parts there!

Ah ok, thank for the guidance.

So not the top piece on the upper dash then?

Thats precisely whats happening at top. I can see some dash removal in my near future! Thanks!

Thanks lads - think I need to start at the heater unit again and work back through all the bits and just check all is as it should be. At least I know now that the main transverse link is a hollow section rather than some wildly routed serpentine pipework - thats a great help!

Well to be honest its a bit feeble from the top vents. I'm just curious whether there's any obvious duct connection that might have slipped apart - there seems to be enough warm air, its just all in the back of the dash and not getting out. The flaps work - I can pull the lever and with my fingers in the vent can feel the flap closes/opens. If the fan switch is maybe on the way out would that cause a reduced 'blow' rather than it being a problem of reduced flow? (basically the fan works, the airway is clear but the motor controller is errant?) Thanks Ralph, I'll have a look - ok its Page 429 in the manual I have and I already looked at it but missed the point that it was a hollow section! I was trying to find something showing actual pipes/tubes! Doh!

I've had a persistent air problem with my heater since the bulkhead was replaced years ago - heater went from foot-burning to rather feeble. I've done all the cable checking and adjustment as Western has suggested, also had the whole heater assembly out last year and cleaned up (it was fine from the previous removal and clean) and when 12v applied to it the motor was strong and freely running. It went back in and I replaced the bulkead/heater seal and cleaned the intake. However it still wont shift as much air as before, although it does get hot, but there's a difference bewtween the passenger & drivers footwells output and I'm wondering if there's some blockage or incorrectly fitted pipes in the lower ddash/bulkhead. I know the upper dash vents were badly fitted and I sorted them. But I'm not altogether certain what the layout is inside the lower dash. Is there a diagram showing what goes on in there - is it piping/ducting or is there simply a hollow section that air is carried through?

My local LandRover independent expert made a simple suggestion (he's built numerous LR's for customers and owns several LR's in the family which he has built or renovated, his daughter has a custom V8, he has a TD5 Disco, his wife has a 300tdi 110, and he also uses a home-made and tuned frankenstein hi-cap/double cab for his 'other' farming work) - if you have the standard round tube airfilter box (I've got a 200tdi with the 2.5TD/19J filter setup) you'll see the lower section of the filter is covered with plastic with those fins around the bottom - simply cut some of the plastic off. He explained that by removing some of the plastic you increase the amount of filter exposed and thus the amount of air thats able to be drawn into the engine, and its still filtered properly. I tried it and it made a little difference - running cleaner (a bit less smoke) and a bit more pull as well. Not vast of course, but still noticeable. For the cost of a filter its worth a try. Given I'm not running in hugely dusty conditions the absence of the swirly fins at the bottom isn't a problem. If I was going to be running in really dusty situations I'd leave it as it is, as the design is like that for a reason!

Aha - thanks for that. Its a lot brighter than I thought! I recognize the Coastguard look for sure. Thanks!