Jocklandjohn

If he doesn't explain then it might have been another video I watched. Hmm. If I find it I'll post it!

17mins in on this excellent video shows it and I think he explains it in the dismantling stage earlier:

Last 30 years of MOT's on mine (110 HT with campy bits and stuff) has been Class 4 with 18 years of those with the same tester but last year the regular MOT place was backlogged after Covid with a 4 week wait so took it to another place that only had a 2 week wait. When I turned up they had a bit of a tyre kick and said sorry Class 7 and we cant do it as our lift is too feeble. Otherwise they said they'd have done it as Class 7. So back in the queue for the regular tester ( another 3 week wait!) and it was all fine and he remarked how pleasant it was to MOT something that was well lo

I did some driving work on the film 'Charlotte Gray' in Lochaber and was tasked with collecting the WesCam crew from Inverness airport and taking them to the helipad so they could kit out the camera on the local helicopter they'd chartered, then drive them down to Fort William. The two camera guys were really pushed for time and seemed to be struggling so when one got frustrated over not being able to reach tools I offered to help and was told to go away as it was "specialised work" (!) but I persisted and said look I know a metric socket when I see one yada yada yada and soon we were all in i

As far as I know the straight pipe matrix is the later model years (1990 onwards), and the curved pipe matrix is the earlier (up to 1990 approx). If you have a 1997 vehicle its likely to be a straight pipe type. Best check abasing the VIN number though to be sure.

That same problem happened on mine, but although it started to deteriorate whilst in warranty it became unusable when out of warranty by several months and they didn't want to know. Bought a new one, and a year or so down the road with it this one is starting to show the same problem. Works great though but those switches are pants.

Me too.

Whichever. route you choose to do this make sure that you use proper closed-cell foam. Avoid open cell stuff as it simply soaks the moisture up and eventually goes mouldy and can smell pretty horrible. Proper closed cell stuff if you want to test it, is impossible to suck air through. Open cell stuff you can sook air in through. When I did mine years ago I filled the panels with foam sheet* to the level of the ribs and then carpeted (foam back) over the top of the whole lot. Worked just fine and never had any issues. Speak to any 'chemical converters' who make the stuff - I bought se

Yes its a 200tdi engine (Defender spec) retrofitted into a 19J with many of the 19J bits such as exhaust and air filter setup. I'd forget the wheel area - the crud and discomfort of doing any work on it down there would put me off! Under seat ok, but I considered every potential location and decided to put it in the engine bay - modern heatshield material is pretty good and robust, plus it minimises coolant piping, makes for easy fuel pickup and keeps the complications to a minimum (only wires going in through the bulkhead). Plus once you have to troubleshoot any problems you'll pro

Aye ok Ralph, I guess a good clean up and refixing will probably be a good option for starters. Its had 30 years of use so may have some rough spots that are enough to let the puffs out. Cheers.

I've had some exhaust puffing coming from down the rear passenger side of the engine (Defender 200Tdi replacement for a 19J). I replaced the head a couple of years ago, renewing all the gaskets and noticed afterwards that the puffing continued. It looked as if it was coming from the elbow off the back of the turbo going into the exhaust down pipe. When I recently replaced the exhaust I made sure to put some exhaust cement around the join but I'm still gettting puffs that appear to be coming out of the join between elbow and exhaust down pipe. As far as I can see its not coming out the bac

I bolted a 6mm thick by 150mm or so wide steel plate onto the outer face of the chassis inside the engine bay, long enough to come up to the level of the top of engine coolant pipes and bolted the Eberspacher onto that. It needed a kink in the bottom to bring it into the desired alignment between engine and inner wing. Its fairly close to the intake pipework and exhaust manifold but I've put good quality reflective foil on the side of the heater itself, and also onto an alloy heatshield I've made to fit it. The first Eberspacher (D4W) was on there for 25 years and no problems other t

Will the individual terminals pull out rearwards individually if a thin flat thing is shoved down beside them? I had to do this recently with an Eberspacher one.

Thats quite a line up! My pal had a 400-4 and that was a lovely bike, only other one I've been on is the XL600. I like those trail Hondas. One year I toured the USA on an XL175 with knobblies, a bum aching but glorious 12,000 problem free miles. Fiat Mirifiori? Helped my mate put a 2.0 twin-cam engine pulled from a Mirafiori into an ex-Post Office Morris 850 van. It was an absolute hoot and would leave sports cars spluttering in its wake! Great engine!

You've certainly done the rounds of Italian exotica! Should have kept some of those....!