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Jocklandjohn

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Jocklandjohn last won the day on July 26 2018

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About Jocklandjohn

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Scottish Highlands

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  • Interests
    Kayaking, skiing, cycling, climbing, walking, photography, stained glass, Land Rovering, travel, islands, nature, woodwork, and anything else I can get stuck into it. Well published photographer & writer. Teach photography, and have led workshops in UK and abroad for 20 odd years.

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  1. Some interesting comments and remarks on this, which reminded me that my Buell motorbike came fitted with a 'breadbox' for the air intake which in fact was a Helmholtz Resonator which allowed a wodge of still air to be present for intake, and which apparently contributed to quieter and more efficient running. That intake on the 200Tdi looks like a passable car version, which might account for the reduced noise and smoother running. Or of course I could be talking utter nonsense and am completely deluded!
  2. Cheers Ralph - that immensely helpful - I was sure that was some separate component. I missed it completely on the diagrams. Thank you!
  3. Just been looking underneath to establish whats afoot and comparing to parts diagram. I am a bit puzzled by one part which is at the forwards end of the sill channel, between sill channel and back of front outrigger. It has a reinforced hole through it which allows the bolt from the outrogger to pass through to the end of the tree slider. I can id most of the other parts around it but cannot id this part - can anyone give me a pointer to its part number? You can see it in the pictures labelled below. Its not part of the sill channel as far as I can see but there's so much corros
  4. Just replaced my 110 front doors and seals, and ordered the sill seals too (MWC1080/1081). However I note they have no metal backing plate. I can see the rubbers are pre-drilled and mate with the existing metal sill plate screws - however I cannot ID a part number for that metal backing portion, which has a round steel top lip and which sits above, and protects, the rubber seal. Mines is well corroded and needs replaced. It *looks* on the parts diagram that the metal backing plate - is actually an integral part of the underlying bodywork described as a 'Sill Channel' (Part Number 24
  5. Excellent thank you. It looks quite complex and daunting but once I;d given it some thought it looked like those rods & clips were the key - thanks for that!
  6. Got various felt bits & packers etc (and new door handles!) . I've removed the door card and now contemplating the interior of the door and have one *simple* question: It *looks* complicated but as far as I can determine the inner metal plate (that sits behind the door card) 'carries' the majority of the gubbins for both the window winder mechanism and the locking components. The plate is held on with several bolts. It seems that if I release the screws in the door edge holding the lock assembly and disconnect the two 'wires' that attach to the lock at the handle the whole plot w
  7. Thats some great information - thank you VERY much. Particularly the handles advice - its often these small things that mess you about! Just looking at hinge gaskets on Ebay and note there are earlier/later gaskets shaped to corresponding hinges type (earlier have more square corners, later have a rounded corner). I have existing earlier hinges currently on the 110, but the replacement hinges I've got are the later type - so am I right to assume the hinges are interchangeable (with appropriate gaskets) as in - the hole will all align - its just the shape that has changed in the later typ
  8. Thanks Ralph - that makes sense - I'd not located them yet as I've not started taking the old one apart. As I'm currently using the van I thought I could build up most of the new doors with the new bits then do a quick swap of the glass, lock, gubbins and door card.
  9. Currently replacing my doors and managed to overlook the felt in the channels. Seems from a trawl through google its available as individual pieces as left & right sets, or in off-the-roll on a per-metre basis. The sets come with/without shims. If I already have doors (which I do) can I assume I have shims? Does it matter if the felt is in pieces, or is it better as continuous off-the-roll? Can anyone who's replaced these parts give me some advice? And also suggest anything else 'consumable' I might need in addition? (fyi I have new plastic channels for both doors, the inner
  10. Thanks! Light was lovely in the evenings - landscape looking west is a long lens shot which does 'squish' perspective a bit (600mm) on 35mm FF camera.
  11. Thanks Arjan! Bit of a protracted job, but its got there!
  12. Update on progress. Well I finally got all the seals fitted and working as I wanted them to. Basically on each side there's an 8' length of ply on a piano hinge that clips out of the way in the UP postion when roof is lowered, and then when roof is lifted and I want to employ them I pull a couple of sprung pins out and the two sides flip down onto neoprene seals and then a tension clip holds them in place. Rear end is a slightly larger lump of wood with an alloy skin on it that is stored up top and lifted
  13. I've used stuff from the yacht or building trades lines - the non-silicone PU sealant which you can overpaint. Some of it seems a bit fussy about what its going onto (some I used a year or two ago hated etch primer) but the best so far has been Soudal FixAll Crystal which is a clear version of FixAll Flexi. Its proved stable on the various painted surfaces and has not shed any of the paints I've used over it. Not expensive either.
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