Jump to content

PEASEY

Settled In
  • Posts

    120
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by PEASEY

  1. Im not 100% here but does it run under the roof lining?
  2. I have had both,the v8 first,then the deisel.V8s are great loads of power fantastic sound but for me that wore quite thin very quickly,do the diesel conversion mate you wont regret it.With that said I dont know much about megasquirting,I would just go for the cheapest and easyest way.
  3. I have had a simalar problem with my 300 tdi and found it to be my ball joints/track rod ends,my groan was embarassingly loud.Upon inspection I found two of the four so badly seized I have no idea how they even worked.As for testing them the way I did it was to pop it out of the swivel housing and try to move it by hand,they should move freely in every direction if they dont or the small rubber gaitor is split you can bet that all the grease is gone and its metal on metal causing the groan.The free play is where the ball has worn away the pocket in the top of the joint and thats only going to get worse.Another thing to check is the splined rod that comes from the steering box theres a coupling/universal joint type thing just check that all the bolts are tight.
  4. Hi chris,I have those DA4202 springs fitted all round on my 300TDI and your welcolm to pop over and have a look/feel of mine before you make your mind up.I like you,was unsure of what to expect from the hd springs but I was glad I decided on them oppossed to the normal ones.
  5. Thanks for the offer chris but I have got both types ready and waiting and if all else fails I use my pulley puller,thank god there already filled those little metal spring clip things look real awkward to get on and off.cheers,paul.
  6. Cheers lads for the info and tips,they arrived today so im going to tackle it at the week end.Now forgive me here as this maybe a stupid question but do i need to fill them with grease or are they filled at the factory?
  7. I have just rebuilt my front hubs with new bearings and seals,whilst there I noticed that one of my track rod ends/bottom ball joint is totally shot,Which explains my creaky and notchy steering.Now I have searched the techy part of the forum but cant find any info on the job and wondered if you guys had any tips or tricks when you change yours.Im going to be doing all four,whats the best way to tackle it?Do I remove the hole lot at once or one at a time?Will I need to get it tracked up again at the local tyre place or can this be done by me at home.Do I need to be soaking them in penatrating oil or will I be wasting my time,also am I going to need anything else other than the ball joints/tre a large hammer a splitter and some very colourfull swear words?Thanks,peasey.
  8. I have done exactly the same as you have,and have the same problem.Im certain its the stem seals on the front most cylinder on mine as when i removed the glow plug at the front it was oilly on more than one occassion.I did ask the question if it was posible to change them with the head on but I cant remember if it was on here or not.If I remember correctly I was told that it was possible but difficult and you would have to make your own compressor.I couldnt wait for them to arrive so reassembled it and thought I would try at a later date,really wish I hadnt now.If you find a way thats easy post it up,as I for one dont want to take my head off again.Oh and someone also told me (I think) that you have to be real carefull with the collets dropping deep into the bowels of the engine and causing major problems.Best of luck mate.
  9. It will be the window lift ecu under the glove box,IIRC,its the top "black box" bolted to the side of the car where the passengers feet go.Remove the circuit board and look at the soldered blobs you will see one thats dry(cracked and just ropey looking)re solder that puppy and your rear windows will be well again.Be careful not to drop anything on the second black box down as this is the crash sensor and your indicators will flash constantly until its reset(dont ask me how I know) a real easy fix that should only take about ten minuites once you have located the board.
  10. I had the same trouble as you describe but I did a lot of fording that week and the conectors were corroded,I removed cleaned and then filled the connector block(lift up the plastic flap )with silicon and refitted then silconed all around the rubber bit in the back of the head light and have had no more issues.
  11. Hi fella,my experience with springs and shocks is limited but like you cost is and issue,I opt for the armstrong shocks avalible from paddocks for about a tenner a piece oil filled and well up to the job in my opinion.As for springs im using the britpart yellows +2 HD ones and after a month no probs yet but most say avoid these.The reason im suggesting the standard shocks is that they are cheap and you could carry a couple of spares.Please bear in mind that I have no experience of overland trips and im only basing the info im offering on local laning.Hope your trip is problem free.
  12. Could you post up how you get on as I have got to do mine as its on its way out and want to sort it before it just lets go,thanks peasey.
  13. I havent done mine but I think they are located underneath the door trim on the inside of the door,I did hear talk of there being 2 of them one visable one not.Come to think of it im sure there was a post recently about how to replace them,do a search and im sure you will find it,best of luck.
  14. I like the ones that are shaped to the roof,I think they are made by safety devices awesome looking rack,but really rare and you wont get one cheap,belive me I have been searching for what seems like an age for one myself,mind you Im really tight with my cash so Im told
  15. Well,I have just fitted +2 HD springs to my discovery from britpart and its transformed the truck,made it so much more stable and all round more useable.With that said the paint finish wasnt that good and was easly chipped/scratched,I didnt like the yellow colour so I painted them with black hammerite after a good rub down.
  16. Its a td5 discovery,which i know very little about,can you tell us if your loosing any coolent,any creamy gunk on the oil filler cap anything floating around on the top of the coolent in the expansion tank,exhaust smoke colour dont know wether you will be able to see at 65ish but is it like steam?Have you tried a compression test or making it happen out of gear on the drive at the same rpm.I will be honest and say im only guessing here but could it be a cracked head possibly?Im sure one of the td5 boys will sort you out with some more deatailed things to look at.This is simalar to a problem i had with a renault 5 gt turbo,totally different I know but it would show the same symptoms when you gave it some stick it would run really rough coughing and spluttering and that also was a cracked head.The crack would only open up under pressure.Im hoping its and electrical problem though as those heads are not cheap compared to my 300 tdi.
  17. No it doesnt touch when driving on flat tarmac but when off road it does,I wasnt being stroppy with tom,forgive me if i came across that way.I was just trying to point him in the right direction as one person definition of a rough road is different to anothers,the bump stops are cheap and thats what I would replace first and am I correct in saying that a vehicle without bumpstops is an MOT failure?I could well be wrong and would be the first to admit it I hope for toms sake that im not as its a nice cheap easy fix.The comment I made was from experience as when i fitted my poly bush kit i left them off until i had time to repair the brackets and it made an awful racket and sounded like the chassie was being hit with a huge hammer,it was,the axle.
  18. I would replace the bump stops mate,they put them on there for a reason,the reason being the axel hits the chassie and it doesnt sound good.My discovery has HD +2 springs and it still touches the bump stops.
  19. Im only quoting whats on the boxes and both have the same part numbers but are different in weight and guage of wire,they were bought as a kit of four and i suspect if they had been bought separately thet would have different numbers either that or they have been reboxed.either way im real happy with them.
  20. I wouldnt do it.Dont gamble on things like that,could cause avoidable damage.Go for the original stuff thats fitted by the manufacturer or uprated gear,never take a step backwards.With that said I havent had any probs with my rad or springs made by britpart yet but the rads only done 500 miles and the springs have been fitted today so it just could be a matter of time,hopfully not fingers crossed
  21. Right i used +2 standard heavey duty rears and +2 standard heavey duty fronts,I bought them from foundry 4x4 and have no idear what the load ratings are,but as luck would have it the boxes are still in my kitchen.The rears are seriously heavey guage and the part number is DA4204.The fronts are not so heavey guage more like a standard rear spring and the part number is again DA4204.If you run a winch and heavey bumper I think I would be tempted to get two sets of rears as the fronts are softer but not by much,but seeing as i dont i opted for a set of fronts and rears.I must say im really over the moon with the difference and for the price im willing to take a chance even if they sag after 3 or so years.Well worth sitting out on my drive in minus 3 degrees fitting them.Hope this helps you mate,oh and if you find out what spring rates they are could you let me know please,be interesting to find out.I do remember looking at a spring table thingy somewhere with all the rates on but do you think I can find it!!
  22. I have just fitted +2 HD springs on my 300TDI discovery as the old ones were well past there best before date,how far they had gone wasnt evident until i fitted them today.It has totally changed it,its gone from being rattley rolley bumpy to super smooth,i did think that the HD springs might be to stiff but they are perfect and i carry very little weight in there.They are made by britpart,I know some have had problems with other parts from them but i havent and on this occasion thought i would take a chance.
  23. While I agree with whats been said so far I would also check all rear bushes for wear,although the donut sounds like your best bet,very good advice as well about buying a gkn one,I learnt the hard way as well.
  24. I would drive the price down to about £1200 mate thats what i bought mine for,I would want a perfect example with leather and all the toys for that money.The swivel are around £60 notes each and come with a complete fitting kit and all the gaskets needed from paddocks.As for the t/box i cant really comment as I havent had any issues with mine yet,probably just a gasket or something.Is this the first one you have looked at?
  25. I know you say you have had your turbo changed but was the boost pressure checked at the valves/plenium chamber,sounds to me like the wastegate is b uggered or someone has had a fiddle to me.When i first bought mine snails would over take me and it felt guttless just as you describe,upon investigation i noticed that all the pipework was perished and split on the wastegate actuator and the boost pipes were in a bad way as well.I also suffered from the white smoke non loaded which was almost neat diesel(really stunk of diesel)and thick black smoke when loaded so much that people would flash me as they passed and point backwards.Buy some new boost pipes and renew the wastegate actuator and pipe work and move the sensor pipe work up to the plenium chamber and all will be well.As for your rocker just replace it yourself and trust no one,they are easy to work on and great to start learning mechanics on.What a good job he didnt have to look at your brakes as well mate.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy