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About tjolliffe

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    Old Hand

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    Leighton Buzzard

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  1. Sorry, yes, want to know thread size. thanks
  2. Hi all, Does anyone know the Union size on a D2 master cylinder? thanks tom
  3. Hi all, Wanting to mate a TD5 to a disco 1 auto box for a challenge truck project. Does anyone have any experience doing it? Did you use standard disco 1 torque converter? Was it ok? I had an auto disco 2 at one point and I changed the TC for an Ashcrofts HD one. It made it loads better but I’m not sure whether it would make any difference mating a TD5 to a disco 1 box? Any pointers / help appreciated.
  4. Yeah I know, I've seen that, just want to know what the 'machining mod' actually is..
  5. Hi All, I've got a pair of early type ashcroft CV's (and shafts) to fit to and early disco axle (although not got the axle yet). Ashcroft state that the stub will need a small amount of machining. Does anyone know where on the stub that machining is required? Can it be done with a grinder / dremel? Thanks Tom
  6. Hi all, Back story: got a 110 200 hi-cap used for work. Engine has s**t itself. We've stripped it down and it looks like the timing pully on the front of the cam shaft has come loose. It's taken out the pully and mullerd the end of the cam shaft. So basically I need to get some prices for a fully reconditioned lump. I would do it myself but just not got the time. If we're going to do it then we'll get turbo and fuel pump done at the same time. Which reputable firms should I get prices from? I'll speak to Turner engineering but is there anyone else? I don't mind travelling a bit but don't want to go miles and miles. I'm based near Aylesbury. Cheers Tom
  7. Hi all, After some advise on removing and refitting a 1.8 engine. I have read a few threads and there are differences of opinion on whether it is easier to remove upwards or downwards from underneath. I am aware RAVE says remove with the gearbox and IRD but I'd really rather not do that. I have a workshop with a four post ramp and a forklift (ie. engine crane) so in that respect neither way is more or less tricky than the other. Which way is easier? I beleive if it comes out of the top I have to remove the crank shaft pulley? As the engine i'm removing is scrap it doesnt matter on that one. The engine i'm putting in though has just had all new timing gear (along with head gasket and skimming). Will taking the crank shaft pulley off mess with the timing? Any feedback greatly appreciated.
  8. Hi all, So I've picked up a really cheap freelander, the engine is cooked and won't start, I'm going to put a new one in it. The engine warning light is on. Does anyone know if this is suppose to go out once the engine is started? As I can't start it I don't know! Trying to save buying another unlock code for the diagnostics kit... Cheers Tom
  9. Update. This has not fixed the problem. I am now convinced it is a sensor issue. If you stop the engine and turn ignition off for appox 30 seconds when you re-start the problem will be gone. So, I have plugged in my diagnostics kit. The manifold pressure seems to be all over the place when it is doing it. Ie. reading at about 80kpa on idle with an ambient pressure of 100kpa ish. This would lead me to believe the MAP sensor is playing up. Would others agree?
  10. Clutch in the wrong way around? I've done that before...
  11. Ok, so I did what AllyV8 suggested. I removed the heat guard, disconected the wastegate arm from the actuator then spent a good 20mins wiggling it and coating in copeus amounts of WD40 and tapping the around the wastegate with a wooden mallet. Initial indications are that this has resolved the problem. Further updates if the problem returns....
  12. Thanks AllyV8 I will also try that at the weekend! Fingers crossed that sorts it. I have WD40'd it but to be fair not broken it down that much to do so..
  13. So general consensus is its probably the MAF. To be honest at £30 for a replacement I'll probably just chuck a new one on it. I have tried to clean the one that is on there but I'm all to aware this often doesn't fix the route problem. I will update once I have changed the MAF...
  14. Hi all, Got the classic Td5 surging under load problem on my disco 2. I'm struggling to work out what is causing it though. It does it from cold starting in the morning and then will continue to do it even when the engine is warm. However, if you turn it off and let it cool down for half an hour or so the problem goes away and it won't do it again even when the engine is back up to temp. I have tried wd40 on the wastegate and actuator but it doesn't seem to have had much of an impact. It moves ok. Anyone got any ideas? Should I be looking for a sensor issue? I have a diagnostics kit I can plug in, just not sure where I should be looking.... Thanks Tom
  15. Cheers Western, glad I asked. Looks like I'll have to do that then unless anyone knows different?
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