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tjolliffe

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Everything posted by tjolliffe

  1. Sorry, yes, want to know thread size. thanks
  2. Hi all, Does anyone know the Union size on a D2 master cylinder? thanks tom
  3. Hi all, Wanting to mate a TD5 to a disco 1 auto box for a challenge truck project. Does anyone have any experience doing it? Did you use standard disco 1 torque converter? Was it ok? I had an auto disco 2 at one point and I changed the TC for an Ashcrofts HD one. It made it loads better but I’m not sure whether it would make any difference mating a TD5 to a disco 1 box? Any pointers / help appreciated.
  4. Yeah I know, I've seen that, just want to know what the 'machining mod' actually is..
  5. Hi All, I've got a pair of early type ashcroft CV's (and shafts) to fit to and early disco axle (although not got the axle yet). Ashcroft state that the stub will need a small amount of machining. Does anyone know where on the stub that machining is required? Can it be done with a grinder / dremel? Thanks Tom
  6. Hi all, Back story: got a 110 200 hi-cap used for work. Engine has s**t itself. We've stripped it down and it looks like the timing pully on the front of the cam shaft has come loose. It's taken out the pully and mullerd the end of the cam shaft. So basically I need to get some prices for a fully reconditioned lump. I would do it myself but just not got the time. If we're going to do it then we'll get turbo and fuel pump done at the same time. Which reputable firms should I get prices from? I'll speak to Turner engineering but is there anyone else? I don't mind travelling a bit but don't want to go miles and miles. I'm based near Aylesbury. Cheers Tom
  7. Hi all, After some advise on removing and refitting a 1.8 engine. I have read a few threads and there are differences of opinion on whether it is easier to remove upwards or downwards from underneath. I am aware RAVE says remove with the gearbox and IRD but I'd really rather not do that. I have a workshop with a four post ramp and a forklift (ie. engine crane) so in that respect neither way is more or less tricky than the other. Which way is easier? I beleive if it comes out of the top I have to remove the crank shaft pulley? As the engine i'm removing is scrap it doesnt matter on that one. The engine i'm putting in though has just had all new timing gear (along with head gasket and skimming). Will taking the crank shaft pulley off mess with the timing? Any feedback greatly appreciated.
  8. Hi all, So I've picked up a really cheap freelander, the engine is cooked and won't start, I'm going to put a new one in it. The engine warning light is on. Does anyone know if this is suppose to go out once the engine is started? As I can't start it I don't know! Trying to save buying another unlock code for the diagnostics kit... Cheers Tom
  9. Update. This has not fixed the problem. I am now convinced it is a sensor issue. If you stop the engine and turn ignition off for appox 30 seconds when you re-start the problem will be gone. So, I have plugged in my diagnostics kit. The manifold pressure seems to be all over the place when it is doing it. Ie. reading at about 80kpa on idle with an ambient pressure of 100kpa ish. This would lead me to believe the MAP sensor is playing up. Would others agree?
  10. Clutch in the wrong way around? I've done that before...
  11. Ok, so I did what AllyV8 suggested. I removed the heat guard, disconected the wastegate arm from the actuator then spent a good 20mins wiggling it and coating in copeus amounts of WD40 and tapping the around the wastegate with a wooden mallet. Initial indications are that this has resolved the problem. Further updates if the problem returns....
  12. Thanks AllyV8 I will also try that at the weekend! Fingers crossed that sorts it. I have WD40'd it but to be fair not broken it down that much to do so..
  13. So general consensus is its probably the MAF. To be honest at £30 for a replacement I'll probably just chuck a new one on it. I have tried to clean the one that is on there but I'm all to aware this often doesn't fix the route problem. I will update once I have changed the MAF...
  14. Hi all, Got the classic Td5 surging under load problem on my disco 2. I'm struggling to work out what is causing it though. It does it from cold starting in the morning and then will continue to do it even when the engine is warm. However, if you turn it off and let it cool down for half an hour or so the problem goes away and it won't do it again even when the engine is back up to temp. I have tried wd40 on the wastegate and actuator but it doesn't seem to have had much of an impact. It moves ok. Anyone got any ideas? Should I be looking for a sensor issue? I have a diagnostics kit I can plug in, just not sure where I should be looking.... Thanks Tom
  15. Cheers Western, glad I asked. Looks like I'll have to do that then unless anyone knows different?
  16. Hi all, Does anyone know which rectifier I need for a standard 100amp 300tdi alternator? I believe it is RTC5671. Am I correct? Cheers Tom
  17. Mine does this, it's called getting old! Done it ever since I got the car at 170,000, now on 210,000 and still going strong
  18. Are you sure it is an electrical rather than mechanical issue? Have you checked all the lines for a vacume leak?
  19. That's ok, I took it all apart today. The switch was at fault, I managed to get another one off a disco at the local scrap yard. Working now, what a nightmare to change though! Had to take out all the centre dash to get at it. By the time I managed to loose screws, break the aerial lead for the radio and have to change a load of witches over it took me best part of the day!
  20. Thanks for that. It's a 1996. I think I may change the switch as well as that has been a bit dodgy for a while as well... Just not sure that would cause the fan to stay on one speed
  21. Hi All, Some knowledge required please! Fan in my disco is playing up. Does not work in position 1, works in position 2 as it should but then does not increase in speed on positions 3 & 4. Any ideas? I suspect blower resistor... Does anyone know where this is located? Also a part number if anyone knows that? Any help appreciated! Tom
  22. Hi all, Does anyone know of the best place to get a re-con defender 200 turbo or where to get one reconditioned? Cheers Tom
  23. Cheers guys. I'll replace the servo and let you know how I get on!
  24. Hi all, I'm in real need of some inspiration as to what is wrong with the brakes on my 300. It's an ES with ABS. I would consider myself a competent mechanic but this is beating me so calling for help! Symptoms are rubbish brakes, too much travel in the pedal and it's soft and spongy. Things I have dons so far: All calipers re-built in the last 12 months. All new pads. New rear discs. New Master Cylinder. New Braided Brake Lines. Bled about a million times (there is definatly no air in the system.) I have gone round sealing the vacume hose (its a little old) from the pump to servo with silicone/tape. This made a difference but still not as it should be. This leaves me with servo fault or vacume pump fault I think? What would people suggest as more likely? Do the symptoms fit the diagnosis? Any help from someone wiser than me would be much appreciated.. Cheers Tom
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