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nick-r

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Everything posted by nick-r

  1. as far as i can make out.the only purpose of the metal ring is to protect the sealing lip as you slide the half shaft into place...i.e when the half shaft is almost in place..it's impossible to support it properly by hand.it therefore will surely fall against the seal.......this is where the metal ring comes into play....although the seal will deform slightly, the metal ring will support the half shaft and allow it to be fitted without damaging the seal. it maybe the seal will work just as well, fitted either way around and maybe fitting it with the flat side out for ease of fitting would be the best way. nick.
  2. i think loctite or super glue might do the trick....i wish i had used it now. and 1 other point. normally when fitting oil seals the spring that sits around the seal(inside)usually faces the oil. allowing oil pressure to close the seal......the land rover stuib axle seal does'nt lend itself to being fitted this way.....after some thought on which way round to fit the seal...the obvious way is to tap it in with the flat side of the seal out.(incorrectly in my opinion) i decided to fit it as i assumed correctly with the metal protection ring facing out....i removed the ring.and used an old seal to press the new one iin, then refiotted the steel ring.....whch way did you fit yours...? nick
  3. all fitted and back together, although i have no way of knowing if the stub axle seal is still in place after fitting the half shaft...(which is slightly worrying).i don't like the idea of setting the seal depth.....too fiddly..it would be easier if it just knocked into a dead stop, i final point. does anybody fill the hub wit grease or just pack the bearings in grease and then fit........plz don't tell me i was supposed to fill the hub.....thx again.nick. just as an after though. all LR needed to do was make the stub axle seal housing a little deeper and then a circlip could have been fitted in behind to make sure the stub axle seal stayed in place.
  4. i'm in exactly the same situation...i fitted a new hub seal in my ignorance thinking it would fix the leak.not knowing there was another seal behind the stub axle..later that evening(new years eve).while lokking a t a diagram of the axle assembly i saw there was another seal. (stub axle seal)...i knew that this was the seal i needed to have replaced, so i stripped it back down again. as i removed the half shaft and looked into the stub axle, i could also see the now displaced stub axle seal, which i must've pushed out when fitting the half shaft fisrt time around. so in a way quite lucky that i stripped it back down again..although, it does'nt say a lot for my handy work the seal by design is asking to be pushed out and i'm not looking forward to fitting the half shaft back again.how do we know the seal is still in place once the half shaft is fitted.? 1 other point...on the back of my new hub seal it says. fit to a depth of 4mm....does that mean 4mm from the back of the seal.(not counting the lip) to the top of the hub...any clarification will be greatly received and sorry to highjack your thread gruntus...nick.
  5. that makes sense...the extended lip runs on the back of the stub axle...haynes says."make sure the sealing lip is facing inwards"..very confusing,,,,,maybe thats not the sealing lip haynes is refering to....or does he mean inwards towrds the center of the vehicle..thx for the tip anyway gruntus..as for running the bearings in the axle oil.although the lube would be probably be good enough, how can you be sure that the bearings are running in sufficient oil?...also, because the brakes are so close to that seal they becaome more vulnerable than when using the grease and the stub axle seal.....nick
  6. does the extended lip on the seal face in toward the bearing or out towards the stub axle..i could'nt quite work out what it was for....the picture in the haynes manual aren't that clear....thx in advance.
  7. is'n that a bit risky relying on the standard outer seal that comes with the bearing kit. especially as it's not designed as an oil seal......also, if oil gets past that seal it drips down the inside of the disc and then onto the disc itself. or is there a replacement?
  8. CAN I JUST GRAB YOUR ATTENTION BEFORE YOU ALL LEAVE....THX. i have been having silimiar woes with my disco 200 tdi.i was also changing oil seals and bolting it back together until late last night...(after finding my rear nearside wheel and brakes covered in oil 3 days ago) the only trouble is...it was'nt until i had bolted it all back tgether again that i realized that i had changed the wrong seal.....not having too much experience with land rovers i did'nt realise that there was another seal behind the stub axle until i was browsing the haynes manual later and looked at a cross section diagram of the rear axle.....so today i spent a few hours draining the oil and stripping the hub assembly and finally removing the offending oil seal......after reading this post am i correct in thinking that this inner stub axle seal has been discarded by some people to allow oil from the axle to flow to the bearings...? leaving just the outer dust seal to keep the oil in?.or does this not apply to the disco..nick.
  9. all they needed to do to (in my opinion) put people off splitting the caliper was use a safety bolt or wotever it's called with a non standard head.
  10. you're right...i'll deffinately be more careful next time....... ........i can't be the only one thas ever been daft enough to make this mistake
  11. thanks. that was just what i was looking for...i know a rebuild is probably the best thing to do. but seeing as i did'nt actually spilt the caliper or remove the bolts......would the seals compress the leaked fluid out and seal up again?
  12. it get's worse....i even a had haynes manual here...and to answer my own question, according to mr haynes, the caliper halves should not be separated. he even spells NOT in capital letters..... bugger.
  13. When removing the rear caliper for the first time on my disco today, i quite stupidly undid the 2 bolts at the front of the caliper..not the ones at the rear actually holding the caliper on....as soon as i saw the brake fluid dripping out, i realized my mistake and nipped them back up again......does anybody know if i now need to remove the caliper completely, split it, clean the mating surfaces and replace any gasket or "o" ring, rebuild and re-fit.
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