JourneyMan

Thanks Guys, I've managed to drill them out myself and they're both back on, now to the back. More rust and swearing, but she'll be on the road again soon.

Thanks for all your responses. I've spoken to both suppliers for these and they're adamant these are correct for the year and model of car, LR want over £200 a side for them, so I'm not going down that route. I've had a vernier caliper between the holes on the new ones and measured them, physically they're the same in dimensions, just the holes are too small for the bolts. For all of the faffing around and carriage costs in sending the new ones back, I'm tempted to find a local engineering company and get the holes drilled out to the correct size. Just wondered whether this was a common issue, I could understand if they were pattern parts, but they're OEM and have AP stamped on the casting. Why is nothing ever simple.

Hi All, This is something everyone else has probably come across before, tried searching on Forum but nothing came up, so apologies if this has been done to death already. I'm in the process of replacing the all of the brakes on my new LSE, including the wheel bearings. I ordered 2 new OEM Front calipers (RTC6776 and 6777) from 2 different reputable sources (Hobsons) and (Craddocks) they're both genuine AP and all shiny and new and as far as I know correct for a 93 LSE. I've put them next to the old ones and the new calipers, they look the same......however......the bolts that screw them to the hub are too big to go through the holes in the new calipers, I've checked the old ones and the holes are definitely bigger by about 3mm. Is this correct, have I got the wrong part or is this a known issue with OEM calipers? Also, the workshop Manual shows a Spring washer on the bolt that screws the Caliper to the Hub, mine didn't have any, likewise, neither did the bolts that bolt the Hub to Brake Disc, should there be one on each bolt? This car hasn't seen the inside of a workshop either LR or Indie in I'd guess the last 12 years, so there's all sorts to deal with including a nest of Bodgelok connectors behind the dash, but thats for another day. Thanks.

Well Duncmc, your wheel trick worked a treated. And thanks to everyone else for their help.

Cheers guys, I'll give it a go tomorrow.

Hi, Does anyone have an tricks to split the Front Hub and Disc on a Classic. I've tried heating it, tapping it with a hammer. In all of the workshop manuals, it looks simple. Thanks in advance.

Hi, Looking for some advice from UK RRC owners on paint. I've finally found a decent upper door frame for my LSE, there's some rust (can't win em all) which I've treated and I've rubbed down and primed the frame. Can anyone recommend a good paint for the upper door frame and A,B and C pillar that would replicate the factory finish, I read in an article that the VW satin black is the best, but wanted some real world advice. Thanks in advance.

Hi, Not posted for a while, I decided to finally take some time off and try and get some jobs done on my RRC LSE. I'm trying to remove my O/S/F Caliper but cannot for the life of me get the rigid pipes going from the Caliper into the Flexible Pipes that fit into a bracket at roughly the 12 o'clock position apart. I've only tried one of the nuts, but it rounded off so I had to get some slip joint pliers onto it, it then started to move and separate slightly and I could see the thread appearing but then it doesn't matter how many times I turn it, it won't separate from the flexible hose and no more thread appears. What could have happened???? What are my options??? Thanks in advance. Mark

Hi Nige, Sorry, I had no idea about this guy. Thanks for the prompt response. I've lost the use of my lift and was being a lazy git, guess its down to Machine Mart for some Tarps then. Cheers Mark

Hi, Theres a guy/company advertised in the LR monthly mags for Waxoyling. Anyone got any experience of him/his work? I'd like to get my LSE up on a 4 post lift, jet washed and Waxoyled but I've moved and have lost the use of a lift. Cheers

Trying to find out what LR/Alpine Head Unit was fitted to a Disco between 99-01, is it same as 02-04 Highline Alpine R990? Cheers in advance.

Hi, You don't list your vehicle type GS, ES etc. Any unit will work but if you want to keep the s/wheel controls you'll need a lead to convert the LR system to whichever make you go for. You'll also need a bridging piece as the High line Alpine is an odd shape, there only about a fiver from LR and they cover the hole left between the bottom of the console and the new unit, difficult to explain but you'll see what I mean when you pull it out.

You're local Main Agent/Dealer should be able to tell you if its been completed or is still outstanding from the VIN.

See above, 2500rpm.

As oldsscool says, the chimes are normal, mine does the exactly the same, totally random but from what two different dealers have told me, its more noticeable on post 2003. As for the change point on the Auto, ditto I'm afraid, mine seems to have a mind of its own, sometimes it'll change at 2000 rpm sometimes at 3000 rpm regardless of pedal pressure, accompanied by a booming as the revs build, but they all seem to do this. Cheers

2750!!!!! I'm glad I got an Auto now.

Never fault found on a Disco, but this will give you a rough idea which way to look. Disconnect the Seat Heater Element, don't know the colours (only done it on RRC's) but its the cables that run into the seat foam, connect your MM onto them and check for continuity, if you get a good reading from this, move on to look at the Relay, again don't know which it is. The system is relatively simple, download Rave 01 and have a look in that for some pointers. Good Luck. Cheers Mark

Hi, Mines an Auto, its about 2400 - 2500 rpm in top. Fairly new to Disco (RRC LSE)ownership but the more I drive it, the more I like it! Cheers Mark

Hi, I have a question my fellow Disco owners. Not a burning issue at the moment with the current weather , but....... I have a 2004 D2 TD5 Landmark and the previous owner ticked every box but heated seats. Is it possible to retro-fit them into my car, I've taken the Window switch panel off and the plugs are there for the switches, I've had a look under the seat and there's a small Black plug under the Seats. In RAVE it mentions that the Manual seats have an element and a thermostat in the seat apart from a Relay and Fuse, what else do I need or is it not that simple? Anyone done it? Cheers in advance.

Cheers Russ, Just given it a go and the new ones on!

Hi, Can anyone tell me how to remove the Auto Selector Knob off a TD5 Auto? Is it a pull or twist or ????? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for your responses, I think it must just that I'm new to the car and maybe my driving style. Cheers

It doesn't sound like exhaust boom, its standard as far as I know as it was bought from an LR Main Agent, so I wouldn't expect it to have any exhaust mods. I don't know whether its normal for this car, I've read the Owners Manual and it mentions pedal travel and input influencing gearbox changes, my RR doesn't have a pedal potentiometer.

Hi, I've just bought a Disco 2 Td5 Auto and I've noticed as the revs rise there's a booming sound, its there slightly lower down the box and seems more apparent higher up the gearbox at about 2750 RPM just before it changes into to top. I've got a 93 Classic and I drive the Disco as I drive the RR and have no issue with the RR. My question is, is this normal, or is it me or my driving style? Cheers

Gents, Thanks for all your posts, I now understand the difference. Cheers