Freddy

Did you get any further with resolving his problem?

Thanks for all your help. Cheers F

Hi, After taking the gearbox off, last weekend-I have overhauled the clutch fork assemble, slave and master cylinders and reassembled. Things are better but not perfect or working how they should. Now when I depress my clutch pedal I get some resistance (i did not get any before). However, the clutch still does not fully disengage. I am convinced the problem is somewhere along the clutch actuator path-but where? I have bled the system, and I can tell the clutch is being partially disengaged. - Is there a further adjustment I can make? (the master cylinder adjustment is at maximum) - I have not replaced the flexible tubing - could it have failed? - What should I replace this with? Can you buy braided tubing similar to brake tubing and from where? Does length matter? (my girlfriend says not, but is this true of clutch tubing?) Thanks for any help you can offer. F

I am somewhat embrassed to say this here - but if it was buying new, I'd have to buy a Toyota. That said, I like my Landy (E-reg).

Hi, I need some help. I bought a new (20 year old) land rover 90 a few weeks ago. It had (and still has) a slight problem: the clutch did / does not disengage. That is, when the clutch pedal was pressed there was no resistance and the clutch did not disengage and allow a gear to be selected. I am new to the mechanics of cars, and land rovers in particular, but after a little research I figured out the most likely problem was the slave cylinder. When I came to remove the slave cylinder I noted that there was a small amount of fluid coming from the clutch or bell house - seaming to confirm my suspicions. I over-all-ed the slave cylinder (and for good measure the master cylinder). I am now confident the hydraulic clutch actuator system is working. I reassembled the slave on to the bell housing and tested the clutch pedal - to find there was still no resistance to the pedal. More research suggested it could be the clutch release bearing / lever that may be the cause. I have removed the gearbox and inspected the lever and bearing and nothing seems to be amiss. Currently the gearbox is separate from the engine and supported on blocks. I am wondering if I have missed something. Did I sufficiently bleed the slave cylinder? My plan is to reassemble the gearbox on to the engine, fit the slave cylinder and retest. QUESTIONS: 1 - I have never inspected a clutch release bearing before – what should I be looking for? 2 - would air in the slave cause the clutch not to disengage? Surely there would be some resistance? 3 - is there anything else I should check before reassembling? 4 - I removed virtually all of the exhaust before separating the gearbox and engine - to make life easier in terms of access. Is there a problem with starting the engine for a short period without the exhaust attached? 5 - if when i reassemble the gearbox to the engine, i find the clutch still dioes not disengage what is the next step? Replace the whole clutch? Can i check this out before refixing the gear box? 6 - Does anyone have any suggestions to help? (Hopefully constructive - I have already been through mild despair). Thanks, in advance, for you help. F

Sounds Like I am in the market for a new rear cross member. Would someone be good enough to outline the procedure for swapping them over?

Thanks for the response Adrian. Do you have any photos you would not mind sharing? I have quiet a few things on the list, but this is one of the ones I looking forward to sort. Cheers F.

Thanks for the reponse. I prefer to keep separate questions in different threads. Otherwise the responses are more difficult to follow. I am keen to do as much as possible in my rebuild as possible - I am trying to learn as much as #I can from the experience. My rear member isn't as badlt corroded as some I've seen on other vehicles. The corrosion in mainly on the underside and a small patch on the verticle. Is it advisable to remove the corrosion and then weld a suitable peice of steel along the underside and patch the rear? I'll post a photo in over the next few days. Cheers.

ROCKSLIDERS – REPLACING THE SILLS. I am planning on replacing the sills on my landrover rebuild with rocksliders I fabricate myself. I am planning on using steel C-section with some filets for strength. I am not sure how best to connect the rocksliders/replacement sills using the existing sill fittings, will these be strong enough? If not, does anyone have any suggestions of how to provide additional support?

As part of my landrover rebuild, I need to address the corrosion in the rear cross member. It is limited to the underside of the member and a small amount on the rear vertical. Does anyone have photos of how they have addressed similar corrosion, that is without just replacing the cross member.

It is my intention to overhaul and respray the body work on my new 20 year old landrover defender. I need some help. Many of the panels are riveted together, when I rebuild the body I am considering replacing the rivets with either stainless steel set screws, aluminium set screws or nylon set screws. Does any one have any experience of this, thoughts on what problems I may encounter, or words of caution. If I decide to use rivets in the body rebuild, is there a special riveting tool and rivets. The existing ones seem somewhat different to rivets I have used elsewhere.

Hello, I am looking for some intial advice, though (I suspect) I will be returning for more detail over the coming months/years. I have recently acquried a Land Rover Defender 90 2.5 TDi (E-reg). It is in need of some TLC. Not least of which is a new clutch / thrust plates. The Land Rover has been stood for about 18mths, but did start after some minor persuation. I am planning to strip and rebuild the vehicle - obviously a big job. I will be learning whilst doing and need some guidance. Would anyone like to suggest some good starting points (books, websites, "cars for dogs"). Thanks in advance. F