P38 Paul
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Posts posted by P38 Paul
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51 minutes ago, elbekko said:
Any faults logged? If it's refusing to start the compressor for a reason, that reason should result in a fault.
There are a few faults logged on the Nanocom which I presume are from the none triggering compressor, they all come up as "invalid fault code".
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23 minutes ago, elbekko said:
Indeed probably the ECU deciding to not run the compressor, then. Do you have an EAS cable to connect a computer to the car?
Yes, I have the cable that connects to the Nanocom.
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On 9/7/2023 at 4:55 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
Still sounds like the relay or what triggers the relay then.
Back to the question from a few posts up - do you see volts across the relay coil terminals when you're expecting it should be triggered?
Hi Fridge, the compressor is intermittent, when it doesn't run there is no voltage across the relay coil terminals, when it decides to run I have got 14v across the coil, its got to be whatever triggers the relay that is at fault but what am I looking for or where am I supposed to be looking?
PS, The black/purple wire from the compressor is grounded all of the time.
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I have just tried two more compressors & none of them are working until the relay is bridged, one of the compressors was removed from my car working two years ago just needing a new piston ring so I think that rules out a compressors being at fault.
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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Have you tested any of the connections shown in the circuit diagram - is the relay coil being fed 12v from the ECU (C176-1), is the overheat switch grounded or open circuit (C151-2), does it work if you put a different relay in?
I'm not familiar with the whole system / circuit so worth a read of the RAVE manual to understand how it works - I assume there's a pressure switch in there too.
Hi Fridge, you are talking to a complete idiot here, the only thing I can say at the moment is that I have tried multiple relays so I think I can rule the relay out.
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On 8/21/2023 at 10:22 AM, P38 Paul said:
Hi all, I have a EAS compressor that doesn't run unless I bridge the relay terminals, where do I start looking for the fault to get it working as it should?
A quick update, I bridged the compressor last night & when it started lifting I swapped the bridge wire for the relay & it kept running to full pressure then cut out as it should, went to the car this morning & its not working again.
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Hi all, I have a EAS compressor that doesn't run unless I bridge the relay terminals, where do I start looking for the fault to get it working as it should?
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21 hours ago, Snagger said:
It’s almost certainly a seized viscous unit as they said above. Ashcroft Transmissions sell refurbished VCs if you can’t find a good used one.
I have never done the job myself, so can’t give any advice beyond expect the parts to be heavy as well as slippery, and get a set of wheel ramps and chocks to give yourself a bit of working space - they aren’t that expensive and are useful for many other jobs too.
Hi Snagger, I have a decent set of ramps & chocks so I recon I'm going to have a go at this job myself.
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11 hours ago, geoffbeaumont said:
If the car still has air suspension, that's not really needed - just raise it to it's highest level. But, as with any work under a car with air suspension, put axle stands under the chassis so it can't drop on you. Do not rely on just the inhibitor switch or an open door!
A proper transmission jack is well worth it for safely dropping the transfer box and even more so for getting it back in - they're not that expensive, but you may well be able to borrow one (shame I'm not still in Birmingham - you could have used mine).
Can't comment on rebuilding the transfer box, I've only swapped the whole box over (on a Classic, never had to do this on the P38).
Hi Geoff, I was hoping that I can get the viscous off without having to take the transfer box out, I had a look underneath yesterday and recon with the front prop out of the way I should be able to undo the viscous casing and swap it over.
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27 minutes ago, geoffbeaumont said:
Or take the front prop off and drive with rear wheel drive only. It's not good for the viscous coupling - but that's shot anyway.
Obviously not viable if you need four wheel drive.
Thankyou for your input geoffbeaumont for your valuable input.
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3 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
8 bolts!
Easy enough access.
Thanks Bowie69, you're a star.
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Is this a difficult job to do on the floor with no ramp?
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20 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
If a P38, sounds like your central viscous coupling has seized.
On loose surfaces it is fairly normal (and OK) for there to be scrubbing, but on tarmac/concrete it should allow a degree of slip and not chirp tyres.
Testing on a bench/under the truck:
You can also test with one front wheel jacked up, put a 2ft wheel brace on on e of the wheel nuts and stand on it, it should rotate smoothly, maybe 10s per quarter turn or so?
Hi Bowie69, thats great info thankyou, do you think that the car is still ok to drive everyday without doing the repair or will it cause more damage in the long run?
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Hi everyone, I have a new problem with the car juddering at low speed, it happens when I am close to full lock in both forward & reverse at low speed (5mph). in most cases it try's to do small wheel spins as if the diffs are not working & the diffs locked, it still drives fine in a straight line (normal driving). Does anybody what's going on with it or experienced anything like this before?
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2 hours ago, hurbie said:
17 years , hows that for a thread revival
Who's Fred 😕
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On 4/16/2023 at 11:45 AM, Escape said:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/L7.L7G.L7G01.L7G01110/brand/land-rover/ 😉
There's 2 separate diagrams for the old and new style manifold.
Ok I've got that now, Cheers Filip.
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Thanks for that Filip, I could only find the flat gaskets when I looked & still cant find the ones that you found, must get some new glasses 👓
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Can anybody give me the part number/numbers of the 6 'o'rings that fit into the plastic inlet manifold of m/y 2000 diesel please .
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Hi peeps, I received the replacement ECU today, fitted it to the system & up she rose from the floor thank god, so I think that means that the old ECU is toast, Nanocom recorded no faults which I think is a bit odd but never mind as it seems to have worked or is working ok at the moment.
Hi Filip, no, I do not have the EAS information document, what is this please?
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13 minutes ago, hurbie said:
i seem to remember that this fault was composed by the compressor not working properly , not sure , but maybee worth looking at .
Hi herbie, the compressor is working but only when remove the relay & bridge the relay socket wiring to run the pump, but no air is going into the system which I think is something to do with the exhaust valve showing as stuck open, I will continue the battle of the P38 tomorrow, watch this space.
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19 minutes ago, Escape said:
Good that you've found the wire that caused the fuse to blow!
As for the faults, that's a pretty comprehensive list. Which could actually be a good thing. I'd say some connection error caused them, so start by clearing and see which (if any) return. It could even be the kicker caused the errors when it was used with the brown wire (which is the permanent 12V feed) lose.
The ECU's rarely fail, but if you need one I have several on the shelve and could post next week when I'm in UK.
Hi Filip, I spent an hour yesterday clearing the faults but they all kept on bouncing back, the car is on the bump stops so I bit the bullet & ordered a ECU yesterday to be delivered tomorrow but thanks for the offer anyway, I will update the post again when I fit the replacement ECU.
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Update, I went back down into the infamous connector block to do a thorough clean & whilst pulling it about, out popped a brown wire, so with that fixed I now have communication back with the Nanocom, I had some confusing results with the Nanocom so I got someone with a Snap-on diagnostic thingy & this is the list :-
Code Type | F801 | FL Signal Incorrect F804 | FR Signal Incorrect F810 | RL Signal Incorrect F840 | RR Signal Incorrect F910 | Air Supply Fault F920 | Air Supply Leak F940 | Target Heights Incorrect FA01 | Cannot Lower Front Left FA02 | Cannot Lower Front Right FA04 | Cannot Lower Rear Left FA08 | Cannot Lower Rear Right FB01 | FL Valve Stuck Open FB02 | FR Valve Stuck Open FB04 | RL Valve Stuck Open FB08 | RR Valve Stuck Open FB10 | Inlet Valve Stuck Open FB20 | Exhaust Valve Stuck Open FC01 | FL Valve Stuck Closed FC02 | FR Valve Stuck Closed FC04 | RL Valve Stuck Closed FC08 | RR Valve Stuck Closed FC20 | Exhaust Valve Stuck Closed.
Think I've got a ECU fault dont you 😬
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Hi Filip, just cleaned all the connectors that you advised me to do then checked the 5A fuse again which had blown, replaced the fuse then used a kicker lite & that shows 6 red flashes, I then used the Nanocom & when I go onto faults it says "cannot communicate with ECU" then I press "clear faults" & it blows the 5A fuse on the car, any ideas?
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Hi folks I have a problem with the OBD socket in the car & it seems to have no power going to it, I have checked fuse number 33 that powers the diagnostics & that seems ok. I had a EAS fault occur so I plugged my kicker in & it lit up as normal, I plugged my Nanocom & that was working but I have retried plugging them in again & they wont power up, any ideas?
P38 EAS faulty compressor?
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Hi Filip, I replaced the ECU in March this year under the the post
OBD socket, no power.