billybob

It's in really great condition. It's a 1993, but was restored in 2006 before I bought it. So it's basically like a 2006 spec Td5 with two exceptions: has a 300Tdi and a full Safety Devices cage. Has 20k miles on it. Which brings up another question: Should I have the timing belt changed before storage or after? It's on the same belt since I bought it back in 2007. Or am I over-thinking things?

I planned to keep it inside a garage rather than outside. I live in Seattle, Washington USA which I hear the weather here is similar to that of the UK with a lot of rain. It rains here 9-10 months out of the year and is moist most of the time. The multitude of websites mostly say the same thing, some say things others don't like: One site says to wedge the clutch pedal down with a wooden plank to make sure the clutch doesn't rust/seize to the flywheel. Another site says to slacken the engine belts (Air Con, Alternator belts). Other than the two examples above, most sites say to go as far as to change out the antifreeze coolant, clutch and brake fluids, as well as to re-pack the wheel bearings. So I want to do it right, but I don't want to over do it either just adding expense, unless it is necessary.

I am planning a move to the Czech Republic for a year and will not be shipping the 110, so I need to properly store it. I have read various websites that offer tips on long term storage of a car. I'm looking for some tips from other Land Rover owners that have stored a Tdi Defender for a long time with success (meaning least amount of head ache when you return and start it up and drive it again). I probably won't be able to get someone to start it up and drive it occasionally, so I'm looking at long term unattended storage... I've heard it is best to change out all the fluids (diffs, t-case, trans, engine oil and filter). Block off the air intake and exhaust tailpipe. etc., etc. Can anyone offer up some advice? Anyone do this and have some good tips, things to watch out for?

Thanks. I haven't taken the plunge yet, but am trying to plan ahead.

When you upgrade the standard intercooler to an uprated one like an Allisport, is it necessary to adjust the fuel pump? I'm wondering if you could just drop in the new one and call it good?

In the US, we run tubed wheels with tubeless tires. Run fine without problems.

I'll be checking my expansion cap now too I didn't see any the day after, but didn't think to look there. I always thought a little puff of black soot was normal on start up, but maybe you're actually talking about real smoke?

I also assumed that loctite would be used on the bolts for the pulley. As for driving while in the red - I engine wasn't working that hard, probably going about 35-40mph. So far it seems to be running about the same as it did before the incident. I'll be checking the oil at the next oil change to see if there is any coolant in it.

Last Friday, my PAS pulley lost two bolts, and the fan belt slipped off and wrapped around the viscous cooling fan. I noticed that I immediately lost my power steering and the tach was at 0. The battery light came on and after a few moments the temperature shot into the red zone! I moved the heater controls to high heat and fan on high. and pulled over as soon as I could (was probably in the red for 2 min before I shut it down. This was my first experience with this type of failure - so I don't know how bad the overheating was. With a new belt on a new pulley with new bolts, started up and all seemed to be as normal. Questions: What would cause the PAS pulley bolts to come loose? Is this normal for a vibrating diesel engine (300tdi)? Should I be checking pulleys and their respective bolts periodically to prevent it from happening again? The engine didn't have the huge puffs of smoke like in the movies, but I fear possibly some damage may have been done. How best to determine? Watch coolant levels, look for leaks?

Nice tips. How's the ride now vs. before?

Mo - The half shafts and flanges aren't damaged exactly, but I do feel noticeable play vs. the new ones. I tried different combinations of old shaft + new flange = little bit of play (but less than old shaft + old flange). I did new shaft + new flange = no play, real tight. I did new shaft + old flange = little play (less than old + old). I can't imagine that the small amount of play is causing the slop I'm experiencing while driving. I'm starting to wonder if the slop is coming from the flange on the differential or elsewhere in the driveline... Do you know if what the next most likely culprit would be?

Well that certainly seems to make sense. I guess that's what I get for not fully researching part numbers. Thanks!

110 SW 300Tdi non-salsbury (24-spline) rear axles with disc brakes (2006 spec). Some time ago, I lent the 110 to a friend that wasn't used to driving a heavy diesel manual vehicle. After a few hard and heavy clutch changes, I now have some drive line slack. I jacked up the rear wheels and found there is some play in the rear half-shafts and their respective drive members/flanges. I have all the other parts (gaskets, new flanges, bolts, circlips) but I don't think I have the right half shafts. When I first noticed the problem I purchased FTC1725 and FTC1724 for the LH and RH shafts, but I feel they're incorrect because I started to do the work today, and noticed the new LH shaft was 1cm longer than the old one, and the new RH shaft was considerably shorter than old one. I didn't get a chance to measure or take a picture as I was on a time schedule, but the new shaft looked like 5cm - 7cm short! Pressed for time, I put the old shafts back in. Does anyone know what's going on here? Are the part numbers wrong, or did I get the wrong shafts? Can anyone offer some help on finding the correct parts/part numbers for the shafts or any tips on how to look for them? I appreciate any help.

Hey David, I live in the USA in the Seattle, WA area. It is generally cold and rainy here. From what I have been told, it is similar to England's weather. But I have never been there. Yes the AC fan - the one that blows over or through the radiator. From time to time it happens - and usually cold. Like the truck sat over night and first thing in the morning (sometimes) when I go to start up it happens. I may need to get my hands on the wiring diagram to get further ideas of how this could happen.

Anyone know why the AC fan would come on sometimes during glow-plug cycle on a 300tdi? Some mornings, when I go out to start the rig, and wait for the glow plug light to turn out, I have noticed that sometimes the AC fan comes on at the same time as the glow plugs. Does this have something to do with the contacts in the ignition?

I think I figured it out thanks to a friend of mine...it's called a bulkhead fitting or a bulkhead adapter fitting! Anyway, thought I'd share for everyone else.

I'm about to install one of these rear wing aux tanks, and of course don't have all the right parts. My tank does not have a drain hole, so I will have to drill one. Problem is, I don't have the proper pipe fitting for the tank end for the balance pipe. Anyone know what is this part called, so I can source one? I don't have a Safari Equip, but a FrontRunner tank, and they call it a "Balance Fitting", but I have a suspicion that is not the correct term.

Thanks all! Now to research where, how much, etc. Yeah, making sure someone doesn't steal it will be an interesting task too. I suppose I can only make it difficult: removing the wheels while on jack stands (store at least two elsewhere) MechLock is already installed disconnect and remove battery (possibly store elsewhere) disconnect starter solenoid disconnect lift pump solenoid

Thanks for the replies and links so far. Excuse my ignornace, but what is the pile of salt for? Will this keep mice away or is it to absorb moisture? As for the state, I'm in Washington state, which is 9-10 months out of the year a 'wet' (rainy) climate. Depending on cost, I would much rather keep it stored in a covered enclosure.

I might be taking off for a year to go live in Europe for a year or so (currently in the United States)and am not sure that I will be able to ship the 110 over and back (not sure what cost/paperwork is involved). Looking into other options as I research this. What is the best way to store the 110 while minimizing problems when I get back? I've never stored a vehicle before, so I don't know what is involved. I've read some previous posts regarding V8s and using Stabil for the gas in the tank, but since this is a Tdi, not sure on that front. Any wisdom out there on this?

I'm trying to figure out the same thing. The question was asked over on the D-90 Source forum. One answer was to use a small screw with a head that is the 'right' size. I haven't tried to do this yet, but next time the door card is off I'll try it out.

Thanks all! I figured it needed to be drilled out... That's not my engine bay, just representative of mine. I was being lazy and didn't want to take a pic. My steering wheel is like the one on the picture...on the wrong side ;-)

I have this type of exhaust - the one with out the EGR port. How does one put an EGT probe on one like these? Drill?

Wow...Nice find Diesel Jim! Yeah, genuine LR isn't too expensive. Steve - I like the PayPal idea. Now that I have a part number, I might be able to search more efficiently...

Thanks :-) - I guess my search will continue...