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trekker

Getting Comfortable
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  1. The arms are too long rather than too short, hopefully the photos below will make the issue a bit clearer. There is probably room to drill new holes in the arm to get it to fit, but I would like to know where the problem is before I start making modifications. At the moment I am thinking the mounts on the new crossmember are in the wrong place.
  2. I recently replaced the rear crossmember on my 1986 ex-mod 90 with one of these (LINK). I finally got around to try and reattach the tow bar (Dixon bate style) and have run into some difficulties. With the lower support arms attached, the drop plate of the tow bar will not go back far enough and sits proud of the cross-member by a few centimetres. As the crossmember came with chassis extensions, the tow bar brackets for the lower struts were already welded on so I know it is not the positioning of crossmember itself. I have measured (very roughly) from the furthest bolt hole to the back of the cross-member and it is approximately 34cm on the old cross-member (shown in the pic below), and 31cm on the new one. So, I am now trying to work out where the issue is and how to resolve it. Based on the differences measured on the mounts I think I have narrowed it down to a few possible explanations. As the tow bar was fitted by a previous owner it could well be the wrong one and the mounts welded in the wrong place on the old crossmember/chassis. The mounts could be welded in the wrong place on the new crossmember. Being ex-mod the mount locations are different, or the mounting locations changed at some point (other than the TD5 which from what I can tell is significantly different due to the fuel tank), and the mounts on the new crossmember are correct to the 'new' standard and I need a different towbar/strut arms. Has anybody run into these issues before or know what could be causing the problem?
  3. Update in case any one comes across this post after searching for similar problems. After finally getting a free weekend to work on the 90, I dropped the box and split it to see whats wrong. It appears the pin on the selector shaft has jumped out of the guide in the reverse idler arm. I'm not sure how this has happened, but after realigning it to where it should be the box is now going through the gears ok on the bench. Before I put it back together, if anyone knows how this could of happened and has any recommendations on what parts need replacing to stop it happening again would be appreciated. Cheers
  4. Thanks, unfortunately everything looks ok from what I can see from taking the top off so it looks like I will be dropping the box out and investigating further.
  5. After a few years out of the fold I have recently returned to Land Rover ownership with a ‘86 ex-mod 90 fitted with a 200tdi. Today whilst driving in a muddy field (low range, diff lock on), the gearbox has become stuck in reverse. The gear stick is seized solid with no side to side movement and only slight play back and forth. Even with considerable force it will not come out of reverse. I have tried with both engine on and off, transfer box in neutral and in gear with no luck. Does anyone have any idea what may be causing this or is it a case of dropping the gearbox out and stripping it down? Cheers
  6. cheers for the suggestions, some were used and it sailed through mot today
  7. cheers for the advice, before putting it in for mot i replaced the diesel with some fresh stuff and added some injector cleaner then took for a good hard blast. It starts instantly after warming up the glow plugs for about 10secs. I will try replacing the oil and running veg. It smokes so much more when hot than cold its fine for the first few miles of driving but then the smoke starts puffing out. What would cause this in the fuel system? i was thinking it could be rings or cracks in the pistons letting oil through when the engine is warm and the oils thinner?
  8. Ive got a 2.5td 110 which went in for mot on monday and it has failed on emissions. After a week of the garage telling me they just need to adjust the fuel supply on the injector pump and it will pass, the smoking hasn't improved. They have now told me it needs new injectors. For a bit of background info, It passed emissions last year and then failed on other things, i didnt have time to fix it so it was driven back for the garage and sat in a feild for a year. It is now smoking with a grey/blackish smoke under load. It gets significantly worse when the engine is hot. The garage says its at around 5.5 on emission tests and needs to be down to 3 to pass. Does new injectors sound right or does anybody have any ideas on what could be causing it to smoke, timing etc. cheers
  9. if your feeling brave do it like these guys will only cost you a couple of quid.
  10. ive just got hold of a 2.5td (i know its not the best engine in the world but it was cheap) to fit into my '86 110 which currently has a very worn 2.5na will this be a simple swap, just lift the na out and bolt the td in or will it require some modification, (exhaust down pipe? etc). also is the injector pump transferable off the na onto the td, as the one on the td leaks. If any one has any advice or tips before i start as this is my first engine change that would be also extremly helpful. finally does anyone know of a good place to hire an engine crane in cornwall or would i just be best buying one and keeping it for future projects, do you guys find you use yours much. cheers for any help
  11. try http://www.mib.org.uk/Default.htm, they compensate people hit by uninsured drivers, i dont know anyone that has used them but may be worth a try. steve
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