Paul H

I have a DIN stereo mounted above a Danita CB in another Din mount on the front face of my mud console with a row of carling switches on the top sloping panel. All fits with no problems.

I only see about 18-20psi on my 300 tdi using a TIM gauge.

Thanks for the replies. It looks like it might be more serious. Tried it today and it atarted and ran fine and the blower appeared to work. Went for a drive and after about two miles suddenly loads of smoke and the engine cuts out. Wipers stopped mid sweep and nothing working. Flicked the isolation switch to disconnect the battery and turned off the ignition. When i turned on the battery again the engine turns over without the key being in but wont fire. I am starting to think that it may be linked to the sigma alarm/imobiliser that the previous owner had fitted. Will have to investigate further at the weekend.

So today as i drove out of work i put the blower lever to position 2 to clear the screen. After a couple of seconds i noticed a load of smoke from behind the dash and the blower stopped working. The question is would this be the motor siezed up and the smoke travelling behind the dash and coming out around the instrument area or will it have fried the wires from the lever? Just trying to work out what parts i might need to fix it at the weekend.

Can one of the wiring gurus have a look at this and see if they think it might work Microsoft Word - My wiring attempt.pdf

I am in need of replacing the brake master cylinder on my 1990 90". Was just wondering if anyone knows if the thread fittings on the later type cylinder (STC441 or something) is the same as the earlier one i have. I am thinking of changing to this as a possible axle change is on the cards to a set of Disco 300tdi axles along with the later disc brakes and don't want to have to change master cylinders twice.

Hi Nick, Thanks for the info. That certainly explains things a bit better. I have a mud console and have already got a switch for the screen fitted to it so will be looking to go down that route. I am happy not to use an engine running supply as i have wired the switch with a warning light and am pretty anal about switching things off (been caught to many times when younger). Just need to get my head round powering the two feed relays from the timer one.

So i am now finally ready to wire up the screen. The timer relay from VWP is to be wired as the diagram. Terminal 3 from the battery i will fuse with at least 20 amp. Would i be right in assuming terminal 4 +AC would come from something like the oil pressure switch so that it only operates with the engine running. 2 and 5 to earth and i assume 1 will feed the two 30 amp relays which i will use to power each side of the screen. I am getting a bit confused because the screen wiring diagram i have found which shows using a timer relay has different terminal numbers to mine. Any help would be grtatefully appreciated as i would like to get this wired soon now that winter appears to have arrived. I will also be using 30amp rated cable for live feeds. Timer relay.pdf

Wow that is scarily expensive. I think i might be investing in the VWP one. Many thanks for the replies

I have just purchased a heated windscreen for the fender and am about to fit and wire it up. I will be ordering two of the PRC 7303 relays from LR series but the wiring diagrams i have from previous posts on this site talk about a timer unit. I cannot seem to find one listed on LR series. Does anyone know what unit i should be looking for and where best to get it?

Do you have any pictures of your mothers bottom end being rebuilt? LOL

Very useful. Many thanks.

Can anybody follow up the diagram of the rear wiper/wash switch with the terminal numbers each wire should be attached to. I had to remove mine and thought i had labelled it all up properly but i now keep blowing the fuse each time i operate the washer pump.

The Tim sender should be the same thread. I know several people who have fitted different Tim gauges and had different problems with them. On my temperature gauge the original sender made the gauge read hot from the moment the ignition was on. Once changed it worked fine. It just sounds like you had a dodgy sender. Get it exchanged and you should be fine.

1 bar = 15psi approx 0.8 bar = 12 psi approx These are both positive pressure. Vacuum is negative pressure so i would expect that the pump spec is for -0.8 bar or -12psi vacuum.