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Paul H

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Everything posted by Paul H

  1. I have a DIN stereo mounted above a Danita CB in another Din mount on the front face of my mud console with a row of carling switches on the top sloping panel. All fits with no problems.
  2. I only see about 18-20psi on my 300 tdi using a TIM gauge.
  3. Thanks for the replies. It looks like it might be more serious. Tried it today and it atarted and ran fine and the blower appeared to work. Went for a drive and after about two miles suddenly loads of smoke and the engine cuts out. Wipers stopped mid sweep and nothing working. Flicked the isolation switch to disconnect the battery and turned off the ignition. When i turned on the battery again the engine turns over without the key being in but wont fire. I am starting to think that it may be linked to the sigma alarm/imobiliser that the previous owner had fitted. Will have to investigate further at the weekend.
  4. So today as i drove out of work i put the blower lever to position 2 to clear the screen. After a couple of seconds i noticed a load of smoke from behind the dash and the blower stopped working. The question is would this be the motor siezed up and the smoke travelling behind the dash and coming out around the instrument area or will it have fried the wires from the lever? Just trying to work out what parts i might need to fix it at the weekend.
  5. Can one of the wiring gurus have a look at this and see if they think it might work Microsoft Word - My wiring attempt.pdf
  6. I am in need of replacing the brake master cylinder on my 1990 90". Was just wondering if anyone knows if the thread fittings on the later type cylinder (STC441 or something) is the same as the earlier one i have. I am thinking of changing to this as a possible axle change is on the cards to a set of Disco 300tdi axles along with the later disc brakes and don't want to have to change master cylinders twice.
  7. Hi Nick, Thanks for the info. That certainly explains things a bit better. I have a mud console and have already got a switch for the screen fitted to it so will be looking to go down that route. I am happy not to use an engine running supply as i have wired the switch with a warning light and am pretty anal about switching things off (been caught to many times when younger). Just need to get my head round powering the two feed relays from the timer one.
  8. So i am now finally ready to wire up the screen. The timer relay from VWP is to be wired as the diagram. Terminal 3 from the battery i will fuse with at least 20 amp. Would i be right in assuming terminal 4 +AC would come from something like the oil pressure switch so that it only operates with the engine running. 2 and 5 to earth and i assume 1 will feed the two 30 amp relays which i will use to power each side of the screen. I am getting a bit confused because the screen wiring diagram i have found which shows using a timer relay has different terminal numbers to mine. Any help would be grtatefully appreciated as i would like to get this wired soon now that winter appears to have arrived. I will also be using 30amp rated cable for live feeds. Timer relay.pdf
  9. Wow that is scarily expensive. I think i might be investing in the VWP one. Many thanks for the replies
  10. I have just purchased a heated windscreen for the fender and am about to fit and wire it up. I will be ordering two of the PRC 7303 relays from LR series but the wiring diagrams i have from previous posts on this site talk about a timer unit. I cannot seem to find one listed on LR series. Does anyone know what unit i should be looking for and where best to get it?
  11. Do you have any pictures of your mothers bottom end being rebuilt? LOL
  12. Can anybody follow up the diagram of the rear wiper/wash switch with the terminal numbers each wire should be attached to. I had to remove mine and thought i had labelled it all up properly but i now keep blowing the fuse each time i operate the washer pump.
  13. The Tim sender should be the same thread. I know several people who have fitted different Tim gauges and had different problems with them. On my temperature gauge the original sender made the gauge read hot from the moment the ignition was on. Once changed it worked fine. It just sounds like you had a dodgy sender. Get it exchanged and you should be fine.
  14. 1 bar = 15psi approx 0.8 bar = 12 psi approx These are both positive pressure. Vacuum is negative pressure so i would expect that the pump spec is for -0.8 bar or -12psi vacuum.
  15. I have recently done this. It really is as simle as offering the engine to the bell housing and you will see where you need to remove one of the studs and drill and tap another. The only other thing is that this will sit the engine at the back of the engine bay so things like exhaust down pipe and intercooler and radiator pipes will need modifying as on a defender 300tdi the engine sits further forward. You may need to move the n/s chassis engine mount forward to clear the downpipe and use the 200 engine mounts on the front mounting position on the engine. The holes are already drilled and tapped. On the o/s you will need to modify the engine mount to clear the oil filter or do like i did and use a remote mounting kit. Also oil cooler pipes to the rad will need lengthening but any good hydraulics company should be able to do this for you quite easily. I did the whole job in a weekend from start to finish without any real problems.
  16. I fitted a 300 into my early 90 over a weekend. It was really easy. Engine bolted to the gearbox with one stud removed and one drilled and tapped. It is obvious which when you offer it up. The nearside engine mount needed moving forward 25mm and i used 200 series engine mounts bolted to the front holes on the engine block. This has the effect of sitting the engine at the back of the engine bay like the 200. If you buy a 300 disco then you can use the intercooler and rad pipes mixed with the old fender one to fabricate the pipe runs and the disco down pipe just needs shortening to mate with the fender exhaust system. Started Saturday morning and was up and running by Sunday lunch with no real problems. I would definitely recommend the conversion.
  17. Is the blanking plate for the egr valve a suitable place to put the probe?
  18. Just done this to mine. It was all done and dusted in a weekend. The backplate needed drilling and tapping for one stud and a couple need removing as they don't line up. Used the 200 engine mounts on the 300. Made a small cut and shut on the o/s chassis mount and notched the n/s engine mount to allow oil filter clearance. Modified the 300 exhaust downpipe to meet the rest of the system and had to change to the 300 rad as the 200/300 oil cooler pipe fittings are different. The only bit i had to get done professionally was to lengthen the oil cooler pipes by 5" as the engine sits at the back of the engine bay on the short bellhousing gearbox fitted to my defender. I would rather have this than fit it up and over the front axle as per the later defenders. A mix and match of the original plus the disco donor intercooler and cooling pipes saw everything plumbed in. The Defender already had an electric fan which is good as the viscous is now to far from the rad to work and i fitted a remote oil filter kit onto the inner wing to save space and allow engine mount clearance. The bonus is that using my vacuum oil extractor i no longer need to crawl underneath to do oil and filter changes. I have also fitted a full width intercooler and adjusted the injection pump and now it really goes well.
  19. Well done on ending up with a decent lathe. just a quick note for anyone else reading this who might be tempted by the MM lathe - DON'T DO IT! I had a Warco combi lathe/mill which is identical to the MM one and it was the biggest heap of Sh#t that i have ever bought for my workshop. simply changing the speed takes 10mins fiddling about with drive belts and don't even ask about the play in the cross slide. I could go on enough to fill several posts but i will leave it at that. Sold it on e-bay and bought a second hand Myford and have never looked back.
  20. Thanks Danster. I will try to get one tomorrow and see how it goes. Do you know what model it is from? Paul
  21. I have just installed a disco 300tdi in my 90 and have the usual issue with the temp guage reading inaccurately. All the threads i have read on here relate to the 200tdi sensor unit being changed which is a different size thread to the 300. If i fit a sensor unit from a 300tdi Defender will this work with my guage or does anybody know which part number i need to get it working properly?
  22. Where would i find the engine number on a 300 TDi. I have looked all over the block but it is probably hidden under the accumulated gunk. Hopefully someone can help me narrow down my search. The Haynes destruction manual doesn't appear to be any use.
  23. Moving the engine mounts shouldn't be a problem if required. The existing TD engine is on an LT 77 and the incoming 300 is also on an LT 77 so hopefully that end of things should be straight forward. At least the mounts in the engine bay are accessable.
  24. Thanks for that Bango690. Did you use the 90 down pipe or the disco one?
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