jordan_meakin

What are the wheels?

I've been having the same thoughts actually. Lots of 1990's 90s around for the £5k mark but they do tend to be a bit tatty. Occasionally you stumble across one with a galv chassis which of course solves many headaches later on. I would imagine you'll at least break even. But, better the devil you know than the devil you don't...

Wizardry.

After much arsing about, it appears to be the throttle potentiometer. Currently it's unplugged and running like a dream. Not sure what'll happen if I continue to run unplugged but the replacements are damn expensive!!

Seats look great. Where did you get those covers from?

Great engines. Do it.

So, back up and running today. It turns out that the Bearmach instructions that come with the part are incorrect! The connector block is labelled 1, 2 and 3. The instructions say - goes to 1, + goes to 2. In fact, + goes to 3! Unfortunately, it hasn't solved the previous problems although, the idle is better by chance almost.

So, back up and running today. It turns out that the Bearmach instructions that come with the part are incorrect! The connector block is labelled 1, 2 and 3. The instructions say - goes to 1, + goes to 2. In fact, + goes to 3! Unfortunately, it hasn't solved the previous problems although, the idle is better by chance almost.

Thanks for the reply. It's the Bosch system so does have the whole array of sensors!!

So, I cleaned the MAF - no change, also had the stepper motor off to clean. Not a lot to be seen there but cleaned nonetheless. Yesterday I fitted a new ignition module, the three pin type. I am sure I've wired it up correctly as the destructions suggest but now it won't run! Any ideas??

Hi all I'm normally here talking about my series but have an issue with the RRC 3.9 V8 efi. I am posting in the other forum but don't generally get much response and have always received useful advice here. I've had an issue with my V8 that when it warms up, it stutters when running. If you plod along or floor it, it doesn't do it but under general crusing or gentle acceleration, it stutters, sort of momentarily cutting out until you either let off the throttle or give it some boot. I have cleaned and replaced various bits but the most recent is the distributor ignition module. The new one is a three pin part, the old a two pin. I've wired up and fitted it today and now it's dead! I'm positive the wiring is correct in terms of the diagram they provide but has anyone else experienced this problem?

For one hideous moment, I thought you'd done a terrible job with overspray... but then realised you'd masked up 😂

If you don't manage a refund, go to a scrap yard as they'll often give you a decent battery for a fiver with the exchange. Haven't bought a new battery for years that way.

Nice! A well worn grill but much better au naturel than silly black.

Do you have a Haynes? Decent set up instructions in there. First thing is to make sure your timing is spot on. Then, get the engine up to temperature and follow the Haynes manual.

In where?

I don't understand half the things that you've said but very pleased its working properly! Seems like you are, too.

The lug is on the wheel itself so you wouldn't be able to fit it back on a defender easily but you would be able to fit a series wheel back on.

No idea, give me a clue...

Hi all. I'm enjoying my RRC but still have the stuttering that I mentioned on a previous post. I have realised that it seems to do this at a certain point in the pedal travel. If I take it easy, or boot it, it runs fine but it means I have to drive like a granny or a lunatic (albeit that's fun). Could this be a sign of a bad throttle potentiometer? The only contrary indication is that it doesn't do it when cold but that idle is a little erratic whilst cold... Any advice welcomed.

.

Don't be disheartened though, it's what the fun is about. Keep it safe, keep it running and keep enjoying it.

I have Britpart and been surprisingly good. They have GK bearings.

Leave it in low range first gear as well.

So, all running again. Firstly, pretty sure the new module was faulty. Secondly, I had managed to knock the oil pump drive out of line from the distributor drive so it wouldn't all marry up, hence why the timing didn't make sense. Running again now but still with the original fault. Learnt a lot though so thanks for your very useful advice. Back to fault diagnosing!!