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RangeyRover

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Everything posted by RangeyRover

  1. Always thought that an arduino based solution would come for car wiring. Closest I can find is the controllino https://shop.controllino.biz/controllino-mega.html Which might serve if on a budget.
  2. Check this out on pirate for lt230 strength.http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/land-rover/1626818-i-blew-up-my-lt-230-koh-took-me-out.html#/forumsite/21027/topics/1626818?page=1
  3. Hi Simon, Some of the work has already been done with this. https://github.com/magister54/opengauge Might be useful to Fork, as development appears to have slowed. RR
  4. Hi Simon, Following with interest. This guy is making a lot of headway interfacing LS1 canbus with BMW canbus. He also interfaced to a D2 at one point. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1887229-E46-Can-bus-project Commoditising the hardware to do this is, is a real opportunity to my mind. Heaps of Petrol D2 crying out for a re engine in the states and Oz. RR
  5. I agree. What i meant was that an arduino or similar can translate from the engine sensor to what the cluster needs. Simulating it first on the bench would make life easier developing it tho. Having the arduino simulate the CAN stuff at the same time would be cool too.
  6. This from the workshop manual p356. Knew I'd read it somewhere. No reason this can't be emulated. To my mind you need to be on the auto can bus and on the connection from BCU to ECU (Security only?) as well as from ECU to instrument Cluster, Can Bus info from p357. Might need to translate messages to ECU intended for EAT. That could be hard. But thats only diagnostics. Emulation required if the ECU is taken off the CAN bus tho.
  7. I've been monitoring this thread for a long time. CAN BUS for LS1 This kind of CAN bus conversion is not new. He actually talks about listening to his D2 K line in the thread, but it's slow An arduino can emulate the PWM signal for the temp guage. The PWM details are in the electrical library I think. Was thinking about hooking an LS engine into the D2 using this method. Vapour build right now. RR
  8. Hi Fridge, I agree MS is usually better but for the OP's question, changes can be done to accomodate the 4.6. the links for the maps combine LR and TVR BINS, and the people who use them seem to have no issues. If price is your measure for budget EFI that can be tuned, still some life in the 14CUX http://www.stevesprint.com/remap-14cux/bins Comparisons made between LR and TVR maps, not much difference. I'd personally prefer the MS so that the ignition is taken care of too, and made waterproof, but cost might push me back the other way.
  9. 14CUX gear can now be reprogrammed by a competent DIY type. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=9&t=1325176&mid=0&i=0&nmt=Instructions+to+change+fuel+maps+on+14CUX+Griffith%2C+Chimaera&mid=0 http://www.stevesprint.com/remap-14cux The griffith maps were for 5.0 anyway I think
  10. Reckon it does! Thanks Mate Hows the remains of me rangie going on?
  11. HI Folks, Need a part number for the bulkhead grommet for heater hoses STC3917. Bit marked in red circle on the photo. Tried the usual sources but cant find it. Had to destroy mine to get my heater working again. Thanks RR
  12. To add to the debate. Had one in a 1990 RRC and eventually got chain slip under extreme load. Was fab till then in a trial vehicle in UK. Would have another in UK. Now have lockable lt230 in disco 2 with traction control. No way would I want a BW in Oz. Not in WA. LT 230 for me.
  13. Calling Dan.... I bought but never fitted a set converted by Dan, dirtydiesel on here. Has been done, requires front diff flipping on older g axles. I would also say that with the price of Ashcroft diff sets now, I probably wouldn't bother. Front cv will eventually go by all accounts, but only with big tyres and a heavy right foot.
  14. In order for the 14 cux to open the stepper for more air, you would probably have to mess with the rpm input off the coils. The mechanical solution on a 14 cux is going to be much simpler.
  15. Mine did that on a road vehicle and threw the serp belt. Mine was the idler pulley. I changed it with a ford metal one from a falcon. My theory is the plastic ones give no warning because they flex till complete failure. The bearing expansion through heat splitting the wheel. Like you, I'm concerned about it when remote. I carry a falcon idler cos I reckon it will work on the tensioner.
  16. In the vapour spirit, wonder if a nuvinci hub will ever be strong enough for cvt offroad work. Im sure bill that you will be interested in the techniques used to transfer torque in one of them.
  17. Interested in the iveco diesel unit mating to the gearbox, that may be a valid upgrade route for some.
  18. If you can do machining, the toy diffs in your rover axle housings might be best. Still need custom shafts though.
  19. Caravans and trailers travel on the public road. Why on earth should they be exempt basic mechanical checks? Considering the utter carp trailers I used to see at comps and off road sites its long overdue. Shame a few more aren't weighed too.
  20. And I would make every effort to keep the abs but more specifically the traction control. I'm very impressed with the tc on my D2, which I wasn't expecting. With Ashcroft lsd I reckon it could be as good, if not better than full lockers
  21. Oi! I resemble that remark! This matches my usual annoyed at work face these days...
  22. I like the rate of rise idea. Not implemented till engine hits operating temp though, so no false alarms during warm up?
  23. To be honest Mate, I was just teasing. I'm mucking for the sake of it as I got given an Arduino, plus I DO want an engine monitor, and I'm sharing what i'm making. It's a long time since I designed any electronic circuit, and I'm not sure I would prefer to make an analogue solution when a micro gives you the chance to retry many times. The engine monitors sell for a lot over here, and to replicate their functionality with display etc takes a micro. There are still some control problems left, that can only reasonably be solved with processing. The engine monitors tend to alarm from rest after hot start. Ans: store startup engine temp and do not alarm unless temp goes above, persist for 30 secs. Coolant will slosh offroad causing false alarms Ans: Average over 5 seconds or so to find mean coolant level. I am self justifying though really.
  24. Code including Coolant level sensing Start Arduino Code #include <CapacitiveSensor.h> /* * CapitiveSense Library liquid level sense * Paul Badger 2008 * Uses a high value resistor e.g. 10 megohm between send pin and receive pin * Resistor effects sensitivity, experiment with values, 50 kilohm - 50 megohm. Larger resistor values yield larger sensor values. * Receive pin is the sensor pin - try different amounts of foil/metal on this pin * Best results are obtained if sensor foil and wire is covered with an insulator such as paper or plastic sheet */ // which analog pin to connect #define THERMISTORPIN A0 // resistance at 25 degrees C #define THERMISTORNOMINAL 720 // temp. for nominal resistance (almost always 25 C) #define TEMPERATURENOMINAL 100 // The beta coefficient of the thermistor (usually 3000-4000) #define BCOEFFICIENT 4000 // the alarm temperature #define ALARMTEMP 90 // the coolant alarm level #define COOLANT 90 CapacitiveSensor cs_4_2 = CapacitiveSensor(4,2); // 10 megohm resistor between pins 4 & 2, pin 2 is sensor pin, add wire, foil int analogPin = 0; // potentiometer wiper (middle terminal) connected to analog pin 3 // outside leads to ground and +5V int raw = 0; // variable to store the raw ADC input value int Vin = 4.98; // variable to store the measured VCC voltage float Vout = 0; // variable to store the output voltage float R2 = 5000; // variable to store the R2 value float Rth = 0; // variable to store the thermistor value const int BuzzerPin = 5; // the number of the Buzzer pin // Variables will change: int buzzer = LOW; // buzzer state void setup() { // set the digital pin as output: pinMode(BuzzerPin, OUTPUT); Serial.begin(9600); // Setup serial digitalWrite(13, HIGH); // Indicates that the program has intialized } void loop() { long total1 = cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30); //logs cap sense total raw = analogRead(analogPin); // Reads the Input PIN Vout = (Vin / 1023.0) * raw; // Calculates the Voltage on the Input PIN Rth = ((R2 * Vin) / Vout) - R2; //Calculates the Resistance of the Thermistor float steinhart; //This next stage calculates the temp from the resistance steinhart = Rth / THERMISTORNOMINAL; // (R/Ro) steinhart = log(steinhart); // ln(R/Ro) steinhart /= BCOEFFICIENT; // 1/B * ln(R/Ro) steinhart += 1.0 / (TEMPERATURENOMINAL + 273.15); // + (1/To) steinhart = 1.0 / steinhart; // Invert steinhart -= 273.15; // convert to C Serial.print("Voltage: "); // Serial.println(Vout); // Outputs the information into the serial monitor so you can see it working for testing. Serial.print("Rth: "); // Serial.println(Rth); // Serial.print("Raw: "); // Serial.println(raw); // Serial.print("sh: "); // Serial.println(steinhart); // Serial.print("Buzz: "); // Serial.println(buzzer); // Serial.print("Cap: "); // Serial.println(total1); // print cap sensor output 1 if (steinhart < ALARMTEMP) // Checks the alarm temperature buzzer = LOW; else buzzer = HIGH; if (total1 > COOLANT) // Checks the coolant level buzzer = LOW; else buzzer = HIGH; // set the buzzer state: digitalWrite(BuzzerPin, buzzer); delay(1000); } End Arduino Code
  25. Well, The original aim was to get a similar level of functionality to the madman system. a buzzer, level switch and thermoswitch would have done that just fine. To be honest, I wanted the coolant level sensing more than anything else, and I was set against a level switch or drilling the tank. Having said that Why don't you use a clockwork distributor system on your 4.6 John? A carb would have sufficed?! Bloody complicated megasquirt, whats the point?! Or your wonderful, but overkill fusebox. Sometimes, its about doing what you want to do, with the tools available, in my case free from work because what they were bought for an aborted project.
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