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B reg 90

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B reg 90 last won the day on December 29 2015

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About B reg 90

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  1. I've got exactly that welder. Its been faultless for two years. To be fair its not had industrial level work. But appears to be quality kit. Its supposed to need a 16 amp fuse to use the full 200 amps. I have it wired to a 16 amp 240 plug, but then have a home made 16 amp to 13 amp plug adaptor so I can plug in at a 3 pin plug. Logic was that I would install a 16 amp plug in the garage. But never blown the 13 amp fuse, so not bothered. You dial in the material and thickness on the screen - it sets ampage and wire feed automatically. You can override the wire feed if you want. You find that you increase the thickness above or below the actual thickness to account for how the joint is set up/how much of a heat sink it is/how you ground the weld prep. But you can set up a simple T joint, dial in the material thickness and weld. Easy peasy. I'd buy the same again. Adrian
  2. Rear tailgate? Not done one myself. But apparently when it fails completely u have to pull door app art from the inside. Might be worth tackling before it totally fails. goid info on disco 3 forum
  3. Most likely there is a leak in the air system causing compressor to run on. sort the leak - it WILL kill the compressor. prime candidate is the air tank. They get pin hole rust leaks in the top. Easy to drop to inspect
  4. Oooo. Looks good. So does the cad model of the lift? Any chance u could share or point too where you got it from? I’m drawing up my garage plans as my corona project!
  5. If I read you post right you have a discovery 3? If so you have a fuel burning heater. However it will not help with starting unless you retro fit a controller to run the heater up before the car starts as it only kicks in after start to warm the engine up quicker. Note that on a Disco 3 the glow plugs run for longer than the lamp on the dash. Count to 30 slowly, then start. If that doesn't help count to 30, turn ignition off, count to 30 again. It should start unless the majority of the glow plugs are knackered. I believe that the glow plugs can shear off when you try and change them resulting in the need to remove the cylinder heads to complete the job. Note you have to lift off the body to get the heads off, so this job could escalate more than you think. Disco 3.co.uk has a good write up on how to check which glow plugs are working/not working
  6. I had a cheap welding helment. Lost it. Thought I'd treat my self and spend £60 on one. It was clearly the same carp as a £20 unit... Also kept cutting out (1/2 second arc flash). It was returned. Then decided I liked my eyes (I have a Perspex lens in one eye - before that operation I could only see out of one eye - being 'one eyed' makes you realise how important that one last eye is....) drank a bottle of wine and ordered a speedglas unit. Cromwells was cheapest, you can get discount codes that work of the tinternet. It's superb. I can see the weld pool better, my eyes are strained less, and it's a quality bit of kit. Yes it's expensive and if you don't have the cash you don't have the cash. But if you can spring for it I'd recommend it. Everyone at the local college where I have been doing night school TIG welding has tried it and all thought it was a superb helmet. Adrian
  7. The RC cars are scale in every way, including costs. If you buy the base model you will find that you uprate the diffs, suspension links, shocks, motor, gearbox, steering servo, etc. The parts add up! But they are fun!
  8. The car was ok to drive. I would say that it was the same as a lifted 90 with simex on with one exception - the steering link design was a compromise that resulted in the drag link slightly rotating the track rod up or down (depending on which way you steered). This caused a slack spot in the steering and an element of vagueness to the direction! I believe the steering design was driven by Andy's desire for the axles to be capable of bolting into any land rover. It made handling at speed interesting. However I did overtake cars in the M6 in it after a while. This means that either I'm mad (I learnt to drive on a fordson tractor with about a 1/3 of a turn of slackness in the steering - you guided it), or it was comparable to driving my lifted 90 on simex. The high cog you are worried about will not show on the road - it will be far more of an issue off road at any kind of angle. Adrian
  9. Think you are referring to a car known as 'Portal Bob'. If so, it was built by Andy Thomlinson (Plasma winch rope supplier/Ruftracks). It was an 80" wheel base and was bobtailed at the back. He had Volvo C303 axles fitted by GEMM4x4 in Scotland. They also added a full body cage. It had a 3.9 V8. I bought the car off Andy a few years ago, took off the Volvo axles and refitted normal LR ones. I did use the car a bit. I liked parking it at work as it helped everyone think I was certifiable..... Also did a club offroad event in it. When I bought it Andy was slightly concerned that I was not trailering it away - I drove it home across Scotland. Also drove it 300 miles to Yorkshire. Handling was slightly interesting as the short wheel base, high center of gravity and 35" simex made it a bit twitchy. Then sold it to a guy who thought his wife would like it (???) I have more pictures if you want + the magazine with the original article written about the car. Adrian
  10. There is a face book page dedicated to TD6 installs in land rovers 'Land Rover BMW Engine Conversions' The TD6 is a BMW engine. The BMW code for the engine is 'M57'. Found in BMW cars, X5's and TD6 range rovers.
  11. They were the offroad tyre to have in the early 90's. If you had the 7.50 version you had big tyres! Soft compound if I remember right and don't last well on road -10,000 miles max?
  12. I had a cheap helmet. It failed after about a year. Decided to go a bit more expensive and spend £60. The helmet I received looked identical to the cheap old one..... It also randomly cut out for a 1/2 second giving me arc flash 1/2 way though a weld. I returned it. Then decided I like my eyes and bought a £230 speedglas unit. It's superb compared to the cheap ones. Obviously if you don't have the cash it's not an option, but if you can spring for one they are much, much, much better. The wide field of view, brighter when off, better controls, seems to be brighter with out arc glare when welding, far better build quality, etc. I strongly recommend one if you going to be doing more than 5 minutes of welding every now and then. I found best price was on Cromwells web site. I managed to find an online discount code on the web as well that discounted it. Adrian
  13. This is what I did for a series one chassis. Also used to use on my 90 after off raiding. Get some copper heating pipe to match your hose pipe diameter. close off one end(crimp/solder). drill 2mm holes in pipe sides, 90 degrees appear, 3 or 4 rows of holes along pipe, stagger holes. Put a small nail in each hole in turn and leaver nail towards open end of copper pipe. It will make the water jets face backwards at roughly 45 degrees. put your now holed copper pipe in end if your hose, jubilee clip on. Stick the contraption into a chassis rail and turn on the water. Assuming the water pressure is good enough the water jets will 'suspend' the copper pipe and tend to draw it along chassis. Push to end and slowly withdraw and u will wash all the dirt towards u. If necessary add extra drain holes in chassis. It will remove a lot of material adrian
  14. Guy Martin 'Speed' showed how to do this to make a canopy for his 24hr endurance bike ride. If I remember it was aply wood box with heat lamps in it. Place in sheet of clear plastic, turn on lights, then vacuum to draw down. Seemed to work and looked very home made.
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