B reg 90

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B reg 90 last won the day on December 29 2015

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About B reg 90

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  • Birthday 06/07/1973

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  1. This is what I did for a series one chassis. Also used to use on my 90 after off raiding. Get some copper heating pipe to match your hose pipe diameter. close off one end(crimp/solder). drill 2mm holes in pipe sides, 90 degrees appear, 3 or 4 rows of holes along pipe, stagger holes. Put a small nail in each hole in turn and leaver nail towards open end of copper pipe. It will make the water jets face backwards at roughly 45 degrees. put your now holed copper pipe in end if your hose, jubilee clip on. Stick the contraption into a chassis rail and turn on the water. Assuming the water pressure is good enough the water jets will 'suspend' the copper pipe and tend to draw it along chassis. Push to end and slowly withdraw and u will wash all the dirt towards u. If necessary add extra drain holes in chassis. It will remove a lot of material adrian
  2. Guy Martin 'Speed' showed how to do this to make a canopy for his 24hr endurance bike ride. If I remember it was aply wood box with heat lamps in it. Place in sheet of clear plastic, turn on lights, then vacuum to draw down. Seemed to work and looked very home made.
  3. You could also try AM Steer (www.amsteer.co.uk) -they seem to make and refurbish custom track rod ends if you want to fix your current 'ends'
  4. To measure taper I clamped a track rod end to my milling machine table with the taper sticking up vertically. Then measured the taper as follows: Put a lever dial gauge in the chuck and sit it against the ball joint taper at 12 o'clock (top view). dropped table 0.200" and then read off change on lever dial gauge. Repeat on the other side (6 o'clock), then calculate the angle on both sides using trigonometry and average - this means you don't need to have the ball joint sticking perfectly perpendicular to the milling machine table. If you feel super accurate repeat at 3 and 9 o'clock. Then look up 'Xkut reamers' on internet and order a taper reamer to suit. If I remember rightly there are some slight/tiny differences between the ball joint taper and the taper reamer. Adrian
  5. I found this web site useful. See link below. www.vapourmatic.com They list by part type, so you can look up 'steering joints', then '4wd' then by a very handy 'cranked arm' section. Then it gives you a table of all the joints they do. Pick one you like the look of and it will then tell you what it is fitted to (as long as it is a tractor!) I found a nice cranked joint. But I did need to ream out the taper.
  6. paint it within 4 hours of blasting to prevent corrosion starting
  7. If u go non genuine, then buy from somewhere where u can measure the bearing diameters with a micrometer. I found a britpart stub axle to be smaller in diameter than the stub axle I was rejecting. Bought genuine. Other thought - all the vehicle wieght is carried through stub axles.
  8. Re the extra power in a TDI 'auto'. I persoanly suspect that the electronic control allows a more complex fuel map while still complying with the emissions regs. A mechanical injection pump can only have a simple fuel map by comparision, i.e. a certain rate of fuel increase per rev , etc. When this comes up from time to time I always end up wondering why electronic fuel pumps for TDI's are not sought after items as they will allow more flexibility for tuning as well I suspect.
  9. David, Re power - I fitted a 60 amp supply to the garage to a seperate distribution board a year or two ago to run a inverter that can pull 40 amps on full load. As I don't use the inverter at the same time as the blaster I'm good😀
  10. 2 x air compressors - I've been looking at costs for a second compressor! Dyson filters -I'm not blasting every day, so I may yet just get a few spare filters as you suggest. The water jacketed air cooler works. I get far more water in the coelescer on the regulator. However I am sure there is a more efficient coelescer than the one I have. I think my next step is to look at more air capacity - I do not run out of air, but running,my compressor flat out will kill it eventually. Adrian
  11. I'll give a water filter/trap a go and see what difference it makes. I'm reluctant to ditch the air filter in the Dyson as the fine powder is not to good for me or the side ways on my mill/lathe. My more pressing need is more air. My compressor can keep up, but only if it runs 100% of the time. Suspect that longer term that this will not be too good for it. I've also had issues with damp air once the compressor/air tank get hot. I now have a section of the air line jacketed with the garage water supply. Turn on the tap and it cools the air and causes much more water to drop out in the coalescer. Adrian
  12. Rob, Bought glass beads to do aluminium. I find the sponge after filter on the dyson blocks and I loose suction. Do you have this issue? Adrian
  13. Rob, In the video I was using some machine mart Aluminium Oxide. It's dusty. I have since bought a 25 KG bag of Aluminium Oxide and while I was paying postage added some glass beads for good measure. Not used them though yet. Adrian
  14. Finally will it blast something. I grabbed the nearest bit of steel I had and set too: http://vid46.photobucket.com/albums/f101/Breg90/blaster%20cabinet/IMG_2701.mp4 After that success and a cider to celebrate I dug out an old Disco 2 caliper I had previously retrieved from a skip for a portal axle braking project: http://vid46.photobucket.com/albums/f101/Breg90/blaster%20cabinet/IMG_2702.mp4 Seems to do the job!