Mark90

If you missed KevTD5, grab a beer and some pop corn and have a read here and here.

Earlier this evening there was a piece on the local news about a few local companies, one of those featured was www.bitsfrombytes.com

Too many classes and you only end up beating yourself, and there are enough of those around already

The other thing to consider is the tendancy to bugger detroits when a shaft goes under load. So don't think just sacrificing shafts will keep the diff safe, it may not.

Seems we do know the same person. Small world eh. The current car we race is CDS, but the old one that was rolled and is being rebuild is/was blue band, both are acceptable for MSA spec cages.

Ok, I'll give you a 30 sec head start and see who gets the prop off quickest

Hi Sam, there's a few of us local to you (Nailsea) who race with AWDC, and I know of someone else in Clevedon building and 100" comp safari racer. If you are looking to buy a cage, or have one fitted, rather then build from scratch I would look at.... http://www.whitbread-offroad.co.uk http://www.northoffroad.co.uk http://www.ppcages.com If you're looking at building then there is a lot of good info in the tech archive as white90 says.

That's how you can tell it's genuine

Wouldn't it be simpler to both visit the gents with a ruler

Ex James Tennant comp safari car.

Oh not again, you always make me wear that. You're almost as deviant as Mo

I think Bish means he needs to load up with jaffa cakes and french fancies, I don't work for free

This one? www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=367140291538

Thanks mate That's what happened last time when I slipped off without them. Should be much less likely to slip off now. Not yet but soon I'll give them a good work out for you

The mounts on the chassis are different too, the holes are smaller for the imperial arms. A mate with an very early RRC had to change the mounts on the chassis to fit the later metric raduis arms.

Also make sure they are not the early imperial ones, they chassis end is smaller on the imperial ones.

Bits to make your own extension are available here

Or slowly, in this case What happened to the 90 you where buying?

That's the crux of the matter, the container must be well sealed. Petrol doesn't go 'off' in the same way milk goes off. But if the container isn't 100% sealed then the higher volatile fractions will evaporate, making what's left harder to ignite - that is basic 'science'. In the real world how many containers are 100% sealed to petrol vapours, or how many smell of petrol even when 'sealed'?

Assuming it is an ISO connector block you can get the pins you want from here, other suppliers are also available, although I've had good dealings with Nexxia.

One point he fails to mention is that when a significant amount of the highly volatile fractions have evaporated the petrol becomes harder to ignite, it has 'gone off'. This is not likely to become significant with large quantities stored in sealed cans over a reasonable length of time. But with smaller amounts stored relatively open, ie a carb, then the more volatile fractions will evaporate first, and quite quickly. What's left becomes harder to ingite with time as more and more of the higher fractions evaporate. The effect is most noticable on fussy starters. With my XT225 if I just switch the ignition it off, turn off the fuel tap and leave it for a couple of weeks it can be a bugger to start on the fuel that's been sat in the float chamber. If I turn off the fuel tap about 1/3 mile from home so I get back with an empty float chamber. Then when it comes to start it I open the tap and fill the float chamber with fuel from the tank and it starts fine, even if left for months. So yes the fuel does go off, but not as quick in the tank as it does in the carb. Regarding OF's lawnmover, we have similar experince with our petrol pressure washer which is just used during the race season, that needs fresh fuel after being left for usually about 4-6 months. It is a fussy starter and it has a small cheap plastic tank with screw cap that doesn't fully seal, if it's not upright you do get visable sepage, so it's no suprise that the volatiles do escape.

Yeh from memory we wire locked them all prior to scrutineering, except those on the intake where access was required to check the restrictor. The scruts then put the seals. Jules are you out to the DC this year?

I did, and sent it back as it wasn't 18.2". Sorry, but I don't have the measurements.

Seems Challenge South West have decided to go their own way.