robmurg

Thank you all, a few things to try there. After standing overnight there's no change so I've now filled the pump (via the inlet union from the filter) with Wynn's Xtreme (sic) Diesel System Clean. I'll leave that for a day or two and try again. I have the feeling I will be calling on Mr Diesel Bob before this is all done!

Many thanks, appears I can try running some cleaner through it and if that doesn't work send it for (expensive!) professional attention. I just hope this engine runs as well as the one described by 'Western' when the music stops and my wallet heals up a bit...

Hi all, long time lurker here even though I don't post much. Hoping someone can help. I've just finished rebuilding a Disco 200TDi that I bought to fit to my ex-military 110. It had damaged bores so I've completely rebuilt it but not touched the fuel injection pump or turbo. I tried the first startup this weekend which was partly successful - the engine is running quite fast with a lot of smoke from the exhaust and the throttle has no effect on the revs either way. This is the first time I've rebuilt an engine so although I've tried to do it right there's always the possibility I've messed something up. Does anyone recognise this problem and have any suggestions for a fix please? Thanks in advance!

That's brilliant, thanks both! I plan to use it to switch accessories (e.g. internal LED lights) so probably all I need is make/break. Cheers, Rob

Hi, I've bought a couple of switches from a reputable source that are Defender hazard warning switches. I plan to use them (re-labelled) to wire up some accessories. Can anyone tell me where I might be able to get connectors to plug into them please? I've searched on-line and come up blank. I suppose I could solder to the terminals directly but I hate to bodge. Thanks for your help! Rob

Making progress, one step forward and two back. I've noticed that the old seals were fitted with the flat side inward, toward the oil. I was under the impression that the lip/spring side should face the oil? I'll try the headless bolt trick when re-fitting, thanks. For this evening I've ruined one of the seals trying to get it over the groove in the gearbox output shaft so now I've had to stop and order more and will be more careful when they arrive.

Thanks Eightpot, reassured that I'd not missed a crucial bolt I moved on to the screwdriver technique which did the trick. A bit nerve wracking making sure to avoid damage. There's some black silicone on the mating surfaces that I guess I need to remove before re-assembly. The oil seal on the transfer box is in reasonable condition but was hanging loose on the shaft so I'll replace both seals before reassembly. Cheers, Rob

Thanks everyone for the avice, which all makes sense. I'm following the excellent guide from the technical forum by White90 and trying to remove the transfer box. I've reached the stage where I remove 4 bolts and the nuts from 2 studs that seem to be all that holds the transfer box to the gearbox. I've supported the weight of the transfer box but it remains firmly attached to the gear box. I'm not sure if I've a: Missed a bolt b: Not put enough force on to break the glue that ejparrott mentions or c: Something else. Help so far much appreciated and I will persevere!

I recently noticed that the transfer box (LT230) on my ex-military 110 was using oil. After topping it up a few times I realised that as the level in the transfer box drops, so it rises in the gearbox (LT77). I assume transfer box oil is leaking into the gearbox while on the move (it dosen't seem to happen while standing for a few days). Can anyone advise how this might be happening and how to fix it please? I've searched the forum and technical archive and found nothing that seemed relevant. Thanks!

Thank you both, I didn't know about Speedisleeves, they look very useful. I've decided to go down the replacement flange route (cost is about the same) and torque it up carefully. If the measured dimensions are the same (I'll use a vernier) then presumably the nut should in theory arrive at the same spot as confirmation. It looks as thogh it is feasible to pull the half-shafts out and get an idea of the bearing load as a cross check. Thanks again for your advice, Rob

Please could I ask for some advice? I've an 1986 ex-military 110 with an oil leak at the drive flange on the rear differential (final drive). If I understand correctly the bearing pre-load is set by the retaining nut for the flange but if the nut is replaced in exactly the same position the oil seal can be changed without special tools. However, when I removed the flange there's a lot of wear under the seal. I assume it needs replacing, is it possible for me to do this without messing up the pre-load? Is there a reliable way for me to set the pre-load without special tools? Thanks for all help! Rob.