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ananab

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About ananab

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  1. This might help, I know they have recently re-introduced the rolling historical vehicle exemption as 40 years+: https://www.gov.uk/historic-vehicles https://www.gov.uk/historic-vehicles/apply-for-vehicle-tax-exemption Hope this isn't stuff you already know.
  2. Thanks Eightpot 🙂 Yeah, battery box is out, 24v alternator is coming off today. You were spot on; it's for my curlers so i have a nice hairdo when i put on the flower summer dress. No cigar light socket, it's ex-military after all, just the inspection light sockets. Not fitting cigar lighter, don't need it. Fitted a new 12v alternator (STC229 - was advised this was the replacement for Lucas A115-45), but having some issues with the connections (the old alternator had a brass coloured sleeve/cover on the back which the 2 + cables fitted to on a nut then the inside was the burned out cable in my pic going to one of the + terminals via spade connector. The ignition/battery light lead (brown/yellow) connected to a lead coming out of the smoothing capacitor fitted on the inside of of the cover). I assumed i'd just need to fit a 3 pin connector to fix to the alternator, as there is no where else to fit the brown/yellow battery light cable (there is no connection out of the smoothing capacitor); which worked; the alternator is charging, but now the battery light stays on all the time 😕. Does this mean the battery light lead (brown/yellow) is earthing out somewhere, or have I just fecked up completely? Sorry if this seems obvious, I'm a couple of years out of practice with all this and feeling a bit lost.
  3. Slightly off topic, but noticed my battery (12v system) wasn't recharging when the engine has been running although it appeared the battery/ignition light was working as normal (going out when the engine was running). Thought i might have a bit of leakage somewhere as i'd put in a stereo and gps tracker, but no. So brushed off my immense auto electrical knowledge (i might be exaggerating somewhat), and so did all the simple tests with voltmeter, and no output from the alternator. Then i noticed the thing i should probably have checked first; the alternator belt, which was very slack. Bingo i thought, even though the nagging bit about the ignition light working properly. Anyway, no joy. So off with the alternator so i could get a good look and take it to bits (i do actually have some experience with this). I think i found the problem (see pics below). Apart from the main lead being thoroughly fecked, all 3 diodes are buggered. So new alternator. Problem is the nagging doubt about the ignition light, i did discover whilst i was working on it a night that the battery light was on very dimly with the engine running, but I thought that might have been an issue with dodgy connections/cabling, but that all checked out (positive and negative/earthing). This is a very long winded way of getting to my question; have i missed something and i'm i just going to bugger up the new alternator by just putting it on? Or am i just being a big girls blouse (with a nice flowery summer pattern)?
  4. Sorry I hadn't realised how much I had forgotten since my last 90 was nicked! Feeling a bit foolish; forget my post. I've stripped out the battery box and connections for the 24v systems; it's pretty redundant until I fit kit that needs it (winch). Not sure whether to leave the 24v alternator on, or whether that would lead to unforeseen repercussions. As for the 12v system, just fitted the usual stuff, gps tracker, stereo and dash cam. Sorry for wasting your time on replies.
  5. Yeah, the cost is, errrr, off putting, i was really just thinking of how little space there is in the back with the battery box in place (2 midgets and a 24hr ration pack fit well). I have a penthouse tent for the back (unfortunately not a 9x9), so i suppose space or weight isn't a real issue, other fitting my gear in the back. There's always this.....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clansman-24v-Batteries-And-Interface-Charging-Tray/162114135556?hash=item25bec16604:g:~D8AAOSwvg9Xa6bK , although what i'd use those batteries for, i'm not sure!
  6. Hi All After having a long bereavement period of my last 90 being stolen in 2014, i've finally plucked up the courage and saved up the dosh for another one. This one is FFR and still has the radio table and battery box in the back. What I am wondering is about whether it is feasible to use some sort of lithium camping batteries in combination with the 24v alternator to give me the ability to use electrical items when i'm camping. Has any one done this with theirs? Any suggestions, thoughts, ideas? Or just take out the 24v alternator and just use a transformer wired to the 12v battery?
  7. ananab

    STOLEN

    Just a bit of an update. Still no news from the Police, and to be honest I don't expect a positive outcome. However, for those few who think it's a victim less crime; apart from the amount of hours and dosh put into my baby, it now transpires there is a very high chance I will not get an insurance pay out due to a technicality that voids my claim. Very sad teddy bear here right now.
  8. ananab

    STOLEN

    My baby has just been stolen. I must of been less than 10 metres away in the work flat i'm staying in, in Birmingham. She's a 1994 Land Rover Defender 90 ex-FFR 2.5 na Diesel, registration L189 DRH. Her rear foot steps have the Royal Engineer Corps colours on them (red with 2 horizontal blue stripes) and the roof lining i put in the back is black and white cow print (i know, i know). She's still NATO matt green and has the spare on the bonnet. Stupidly the last time i drove her i was lazy and left the bag with all her registration docs inside. I know it's a long shot, but please keep your eyes peeled. Thanks from a sad and angry man John
  9. Thanks Paddy, all ok. What I will say however; ensure when testing glow plugs you make sure the mole grips have it nice and secure and that you don't wear trousers with big gaping pockets that allow the red hot glow plug to fall into, when the mole grips slip. Apparently this is highly amusing to onlookers; although extremely painful and humiliating when doing a mad 'no dad' dance whilst trying to retrieve said red hot item melting its way through your family jewels.
  10. Thanks Pete, in hindsight i think the belt had been going for a while (my fault for not checking as regularily as you should), and there had been a couple of clues (charging light flickering on when going through deep puddles for one). I also believe that the alternator securing bolts had slipped as there is a fresh dent in the side of the alternator on the engine side; the adjusting bolts were not as tight as they should of been too. Close scrutiny of all related parts shows nothing is amiss at the moment and the alternator and fan spin smoothly. The fan cowling isn't causing any issues either, all in all i think i have dodged a potentially nasty bullet. The only issue is cold start as it a takes a good 20/30 secs to catch, even after giving a good 25 secs on the glow plugs (lots of white smoke before it catches), but onces she starts, no smoke at all apart from an initially nice sooty black belch (reminds me of being in the MT hanger when all the land rovers and 4 tonners are started in the morning). I've got spare glow plugs and am about to check the wiring and the existing glow plugs (their state should tell me if there's an issue with injector spray pattern too). Also gives me an excuse to clear away the last of the wiring from when the 24v system was removed. Mind you I think who ever initially put the wiring loom in decided to have a laugh and just randomly use the wrong coloured wires to the wrong system.
  11. Cheers. All sorted, although when looking for the engine id plate i found it by fuel lift pump and it's says it's an 11J.....(think someone is having a giraffe). The coolant wasn't as gone as i thought it was and the new belt went on sweet and simple (didn't bother removing the fan in the end). Engine is running sweet (well as sweet as they do), just need to replace a couple of glow plugs now. Think i'll give radiator a miss this time as i have to fork out for 2 new front tyres (almost fainted when i got first quote for michelin xzl's (mind you i suppose they do last for years)).
  12. Fan belt (auxilary) went yesterday and i didn't notice the battery warning light for a while and by that point the water temp was off the guage. Changing the belt isn't an issue (although i should know better and had a spare); however i'm a bit worried as it seems i've managed to boil away most of the coolant. Being a bit of a pessimist i'm worried about damage this will have caused; what's the worst case i'm looking at? I have not been able to check engine function as the new fan belt doesn't arrive until tomorrow. All the coolant hoses seem intact and it appears the coolant mostly boiled out through the over flow. THe oil temp never went above normal and the level is ok, plus the engine seemed to be running fine before i stopped. I'm a bit worried as a bit inexperienced on the mechanical side, any ideas would be welcome. Also noticed when i took the fan shroud off the radiator cooling fins are quite corroded, would this be a good time to maybe replace it (although it doesn't leak). It's a Defender 90 (1993/94) 2.5 NA diesel 19j engine. As a last one, what's the difference between a viscous fan and just bolt on one? Cheers in advance.
  13. Well inside is done. High density foam panels, camping mats, silvered bubble wrap and some very cheap vinyl upholstry material (unfortunately it's black and white cow pattern). It's made a massive difference to noise and condensation.
  14. Hi, I've got a 1994 90 (was FFR but has had the 24v system removed) and was just wondering if any one had any ideas for roof insulation/ lining to help cut out the condensation. I've been looking at proper headlining, but the cost is wickedly expensive. I was toying with using some high density insultion foam (15mm). Any ideas?
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