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djwillis

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Everything posted by djwillis

  1. Thanks guys, It has a home made tracker and I think upgrading that is on the agenda. I think your right, keep it visible (not that it stopped them trashing my truck) and have the other things as a backup/slowdown. I had not really considered the 'template' install problems for alarms. Most of the stuff like that I would wire myself would be somewhat unconventional as you might imagine but it is no use it every installer just puts it on 'X' wire in 'Y' place just to get the bit of paper to keep the insurance quiet . So in no specific order it is a deterrent alarm self installed, more visible stuff and a early Christmas trip to X-Eng's site again. That's some things to work on once the garage have had a chance to sort out the trashed steering column. Can I also ask for more info on removable steering wheels (I guess that plus parking at lock would make things a pain at least)? verything I have seen in the past is a boss on top of another boss and being 6.3" this would mean driving the truck from the bench seats in the back .
  2. Hi All, Simple question really, what is the consensus on a decent alarm to add to a 90 that already has a few more visible deterrents (clutch claw, steering bar etc.) and other bits and bobs? I am not really looking at more then the £300 mark tops and would rather have something that counts towards the insurance, so Thatcham class 1 I guess? A few people have suggested Toad (and the ai606 especially) with the optional tilt sensor but not a lot else. Does that seem like a good starting point or should I be looking elsewhere? Also heard that the Clifford ones do not suit our trucks all that well. As my truck was quite messed up after a recent attempt to steal it I am inclined to add anything extra that just makes stealing it more awkward (knowing that if they want it they will take it).
  3. Frax, I can't speak for others but for the stuff on mine that came from the existing loom I just extended in the wires or used them as is (rear wipe/stock 12v etc.) everything else comes from feeds from a second baby fuse box mounted up on the seat bulkhead (or will when I get off my arse and finish adding extra stuff to it ). That said, I expect most people will have just hacked off the main internal fuse box below and run up some wires and used the odd spare slots (or vampired existing feeds ) unless they really wanted a 2nd fuse box. Mind you, your idea of just running a feed from the battery bay and popping a small fusebox with some micro-fuses behind the Raptor console sounds great to me. It's easy enough to take a few screw out to get at the insides of the console if you need to change the fuses or tweak things.
  4. Damm, that is an understatement. Nice job . Redcard, Want to rewire my truck? I should try and take a few photos of mine (got it from Phill when he did the Bath and West show ground back in 2009). The only custom thing I did was stretch black vinyl over the metal frame to blend it in a little better with the stock dash. The result was not great but is quite serviceable and the console is so damm tough .
  5. I have the LaSalle trim sat in the back room to install in my 90 CSW when it gets warmer and dryer out . Also helped a friend put it in his 110 with van sides, really makes the inside look smart. It is expensive stuff and takes a while to install correctly but it's a good product. Oh and of course, no alpine window cutouts, if you buy the extra alpine window bits from LaSalle you have to cut the trim and put the extra trim over the hole . One thing I would suggest is to stick some cheap camping mats up before you mount up the new headlining, that will take and thruming out of the roof and also seems to keep heat in and cold out . Messy job but you can cover it with the nice headlining if you make a mess of the camping mats.
  6. Very nice setup, I did not realise the E36 seats would fit so well. How much higher than the normal LR seats are they (trying to workout if I could use them at 6'3" without removing the rear bulkhead . Also, do you have any links for sellers of the window kits? That brilliant and I would love to do it to my 90.
  7. I have a TD5 style clock in the dash unit I am building up for my 300Tdi (300 style fuel/temp and speedo, TD5 style clock, surround and LED warning panel). I seem to recall it was just a case of using the wires from the 300's old dash clock and running it into a suitable connector (that came from my R/C car bits box ). That said, you can't change the illumination in the TD5 style clock so your stuck with green unless you want to solder surface mount LED's. I noticed this after I had wired it all up and set all the other dials to use defused white LED's. I may go back to the 300's clock after all .
  8. Do you have any photos? Redoing parts of the dash need not be that hard and depending on your setup adding a console box (mud/raptor etc.) and just giving it all a damm good clean with some washing up liquid can also do wonders. I can't say I have ever recovered a dash but I have covered a few bits in vinyl (Raptor centre console so it blended in better, home made cubby box etc.). It's not hard provided you get a vinyl that has a good bit of stretch in it and you a good 2 layer adhesive (not no more nails, like I used on my very first attempt ). There are quite a few places on the net that do vinyl that has a very similar grain to the Land Rover stuff, most upholsters should also be able to get you some and it is not that expensive. Also read up on classic car refurbishment to get more information on the subject then you ever wanted to know . That will also give you local suppliers that will do the work for you if that is what you want to do.
  9. You may want to check on that? I currently use SureTerm (well the policy is Highway/LV with them as the broker) and that has business use included. Its proper business use and not just travel to a work place so I am covered for work loads etc. - Ok, my job is in tech and I sometimes have servers and bits and bobs like that in the back, it's not quite the same as a builder insuring a 130 tipper I guess but its still business use. That said, I am dreading my renew this year (a small altercation in the snow is going to really hurt ).
  10. What do you think of the KBX surrounds quality wise? It's either new surrounds or NAS lights and some paint, not sure what is going to look better. Actually, knowing my work rate some boot polish and a duster may be about as good as it gets . Anyone know a cheap source for NAS lights and surrounds?
  11. Has anyone got part no's for the exact springs mentioned? OE versions that is, all I seem to turn up is 'like OE' aftermarket tat from the places I would trust . The idea of 110 fronts and HD 90 rears sounds ideal, esp. with a roof rack and a bit of loading. I guess progressive spring's have to be a compromise somewhere but if your just towing, loading up or down lanes it's going to be a lot better than 90 stock springs.
  12. That's just what it is for. Do update with how you get on with the TD5 tank sender, 300TDi and the loom, just about to try and get to the bottom of some that with my 300TDi 90 and it's currently dead tank sender . That said, I may have snagged a Puma tank and sender not the TD5 one I was hoping for (Doh!) so that will be totally different to the TD5 just to make things difficult . Oh, and thanks again for the gauges and stuff during the week. Much appreciated, started to wire it all up.
  13. Some pics of how you made up the mounts would be great. I had half an eye on some leather front seats from a Ka and was pondering the best way to get them fitted in my 90.
  14. It's similar for the Raptor one, you either rivet or bolt it to the metal below the spot that holds the ashtray (best to bolt if you have an ashtray, the bolt makes a handy earth point). From memory the Iron Goat one also fixes to metal. I can't see you haveing a problem to be honest with any of them but you may have a void where the sides of the unit want to butt up to the plastic trim (if present). You should be able to knock up something to clean that up (cut some thin black plastic to size maybe?)
  15. mickeyw, Thanks for the tip on the Wollies Trim stuff, that looks ideal (better than what I had laying about). I'll grab some and get my Raptor unit covered and report back on how it turns out. I assume you just bonded it on with normal spray contact adhesive? Some pics of your homebrew console would be great. EDIT: Was it the normal grain or heavy grain vinyl you used?
  16. Just trying to steer this back on topic one thing that can make the Raptor console look a lot less 'utilitarian' is to coat the main metal frame of the unit in some suitable adhesive backed vinyl with a LR like pattern. Even better is to fine some of the slightly foam backed stuff. I plan on doing this to mine to make it blend in a little better with the rest of the dash. It's fair to say that the MUD and Iron Goat dashs do look a lot more 'stock'. No questions about that. All 3 are good for what they do and all 3 hit just 'slightly' different niches.
  17. http://www.raptor-engineering.co.uk/
  18. I had a Mud console and it's a solid bit of kit but the front did not fare to well to some unplanned abuse as it's still plastic after all. It does look nice however. Replaced it with a Raptor console I got at the Bath & West Land Rover show, installing it well will take a bit of time. The guy who makes it thinks 15-30 mins and I think if you had done 20-30 that would be fair but for us mere mortals it will take a few hours to offer up and mount it well (use 2 bolts to mount it up into the bulkhead under the ashtray and bolt in a few earthing tabs would be my advice). Make sure you allow a lot of time to wire it up well . The end result of the Raptor console is something that is pretty tough and easy to customise if your happy drilling into metal plate, but it does look very 'utilitarian'. Either console will do the job if you're looking for a console to hold the stereo and some switches but if you're going to punish the console you may want to look for something with more metal or using really heavy duty plastics (like the iron goat one, but it's stupidly expensive). While you're at it avoid the 'bolt on bits' plastic console at all costs, helped a friend try and put one in his truck and it may as well be made of jam or paper for all the solidity it provides . You get what you pay for.
  19. Did you manage to get a price or are you still trembling after finding out and fear telling anyone?
  20. Damm, a new owner just down the road from me . I am just up from Radstock on the Bath road. I am new here and just starting out trying to find a decent(ish) 90 (at about £3-4k) to start off a project that I have had in mind for years (and it feels like I have been gathering info for just as long). Growing up I used to help out working on friends Series and early 90's and the time has come to get one for myself. To be honest finding a good truck is turning out to be quite a chore with it seeming like there is an awful lot of junk both in dealers and private markets at the moment at my price. Add to the fact I am really inexperienced with Landies and I feel that I am about to walk into disaster . Anyway, onto the point of my post. Thanks for the good comments about decent dealers. I will add them to my list of places to search.
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