csimoes

found this "answer" in another fórum... is this guy right about timing?!?!? "Stock ign timing on a 4.0 advances to 50 degrees at 2000 rpm's. Using a 4.0 GEMs ecu on a 4.6 you'll max out at 46 degrees @2000 rpm's. At 3800 rpm's you're retarding to 43.6 degrees. Injector pulse rates are a concern, too. In other words, at full throttle you're starving the engine of fuel. An injector that flows a little more fuel would help, or maybe add a 9th injector on a relay. Both would be experimental unless you can find someone who has done this already. By pulling the knock sensors you can retard timing 6.8 degrees at idle. Take that FWIW."

it was fine for me . no problems till now

good info i think that i ended up in Mez page after Reading a post by you on megasquirt fórum one thing i'm going to do is to change my steel air box for a plastic one from a later RR Classic (300tdi). and put the sensor on that box. this way the heat soak will be a lot less, the sensor won't be right over the headers and connect to a piece of metal. i hope this helps with that problem. indeed it can get a lot hotter here then UK, after changing to the plastic box i'm going to try your numbers. here did you put the IAT sensor? Some more hollidays tuning when i touched the acelerator very slowly ( slower then the slow point of acceleration enrichment) the car would bog down and then when i pressed the pedal more it then picked up the rpm... annoying..... looking at the AFR gauge i could see that it went very rich at that moment. what i concluded was that when i touched the pedal it would close the PWM and it didn't have enought air at that moment. my TPS is set at 27 - 254 my TPS threshold point at Idel Control was at 35 i then moved the TPS Threshold point to 45 and Voilá..... i can now press the pedal at idle very slowly that the car does die and after the threshold it picks up rpm without any problems

if you use the wires from the 1357 on the 2468 will they work? if they do, then your problem is the wires to those injectores use a multimeter to make sure the signal gets to the relay board/ecu from the plugs (continuity test)

Christmas update idle, chapter two everything was fine until the IAT's values go up... after surfing the web ended up at http://www.mez.co.uk/ms15.HTML applied those changes and bingo! now idle is allways stable. i ended up with a few different values but very close. also changed the start and end rpm for correction. i used 1000rpm to 1500rpm my values are: 100 103 105 107 109 110 111 merry Christmas everybody

well done!

little update idle it's resolved. at least it seems like it. didn´t mess with the IAT correction but after Reading another post on here about setting the idle i reduced a bit the base idle (the little screw on the plenun) and the AFR became much richer 13's something and it's great. the other problem of rpm coming down and sticking and X rpm, wich i resolved with the ignition map, wasn´t perfect and it still happened sometimes. now that i fixed the base idle it wasn't happen again... so next step is to put back the initial ignition values and see if it's still ok hope this will help the rookies like me

i've been doing it by hand. but today air temperature is around 13ºcelsius and after 15 minutes of idleing and playing with it, MAT went up to 51º celsius..... that's impossible on a winter day like today if it was a summer day i would believe it but today.... must be heat sink. the correction that came with the ECU is set at 100%, if i understood it right at 100% it's neutral or should i set it to normal correction? (that's not what it's on now)

i've notice that when tuning the idle as time passed it would start to be unstable again. then notice that the MAT was rising and the more unstable it got. so i think next step is to setup the correction by coolant correct air density. can anyone help me with this stage?

i think he means the fast idle value for when it's cold

another session of tuning and playing with MS issue to solve: hunting at idle on LPG and rpm sticking at 1200-1300rpm on deceleration LPG to (not allways but most of the time, i was solving it by sticking a higher gear and let it bog a litle and then it would would start hunting again for idle on petrol it's okish but LPG was nasty 200rpm hunting first thought it was the LPG ECU messing it up but then i thought.... i have MS so i have to be able to solve it after a couple of hours playing with it i solved both problems solution: i bit of change of VE table for LPG and a lot of change on LPG spark table!!! VE wise petrol is 44 44 41 46 LPG is 43 43 41 47 (i think LPG ECU as something to do with this values....) and the big part of the solution was the spark table here's a pic of the tables. the original one gave by Nige (great table allround except in the idle and deceleration part, for me at least) is on the left and on the right my final result. basically i had to do that pit marked in yellow and lower a bit the timing around it (marked in red). idle solved, maybe not perfect perfect but more then good enought i still had the deceleration problem. i have over run cut off activated at 1500rpm and lower then 30kpa after a few bleeping of the loud pedal i notice that on deceleration around the 1500rpm mark it couldn't go down because of the very advanced timing, it would accelerate by it self and idle at that speed. what i ended up doing was that channel marked in blue with low timing so it go down without any effort the 20 marked in black i left it like that but being at 35kpa i'll probably rise it again and voilá problems solved now i would like to get some feed back from the gurus out there about my problem solving. am i solving this like trying to nail down a litle nail with a sledge hammer?

lol lol yes because your 5.2V8 must veryyyyyy slow ahahahah

afr table used it's this my setup is LT77/BorgWarner with 4.12 R&P and 285/75r16 the differences are minimal, don't think i'll be able to notice anything but just think it's strange that they exist. if tune live gives 77 MLV gives 76. being that tune live is allways richer. since i've installed it it's been my toy another thing i notice was that on the first runs i had the snorkel connected and couldn't get to high MAP at high RPM this last runs, with it disconnected the only cells i couldn´t reach were the top/right 4 cells at 97kpa and above

another 50 minutes run on normal and i got this map what do you guys think about it? again the final result from tune live and MLV are diferent?!?!? if it is based in the same algorithm, why the diferent results???

update after a 50 minuts run on normal a got a much leaner map than i had, and could get "normal" numbers at higher rpm and MAP i used tune live and got one map but i recorded the run to using the MLV with the same paremeters i got a different map, a bit more leaner in most cells. now what map should i trust? with MLV with tune live