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smallfry last won the day on May 1 2020

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About smallfry

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    Gillingham Kent

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  1. OK, I see now. You omitted that small detail šŸ˜„ Can you post a picture of the housing that the oil filter screws onto ? This will confirm what oil pump you have, and which sort of camshaft you will need. If it has V belts, it SHOULD have a gear driven pump, and therefore a long nose camshaft, but some odd things do turn up from time to time.
  2. Are you sure it has a distributor ? That looks like a couple of coil packs to me, plus I cannot see a king lead of separate ignition coil ? Cant see properly though.
  3. And the coil itself could be faulty of course. Is it ticking before you actually start the engine ? The way its written suggests it does
  4. Dont know about the ticking noise, but your original problem could be the fuel starvation. Is the pump in tank or in line, and is it a proper one and not a cheap unbranded thing ? Blockage in the tank pick up ? Feed hose internal collapse ?
  5. Its a good point. Dont want to scooping a lump out of any pedestrians !
  6. What I done with my conversions, non Land Rover, was to take the feed pipe off at both ends, and prime the pump with it running using a big medical syringe. The heater itself will time out, but once it connected up wire fire up easily. Syringes can be easily got from horsey shops or ebay. I find then useful for lots of things that you havent even thought of yet. They create vacuum too.
  7. That is very true Geoff, but when I started I was supervised by a responsible adult ! Very important with safety related stuff, like brakes ! More for other road users benefit.
  8. Do you mean the circular spring type, or the wide band with two barrels and a screw ? Thanks for the input chaps ! The leaks and clips issue do worry me, and then I dont like having to make up hoses with lots of joins and clips. I have a good selection of old heater hoses from various vehicles going back a long time. For now, I think I will chop them up and make something out of them. I know it probably not good practise given that they are old, but at least I can work out hoe to route them temporarily. Ten years later ..............
  9. This is what I think when I see threads on "How do I change the brake pads on my Turbo Nutter Coupe" .............
  10. Basically the cars are scrap. Would need way too much welding, plus the rooves ? have rotted. It is to ascertain if the engines are worth keeping for further use. Had another look at this yesterday. Took out the tank sender and found both the feed and return blocked solid with what looks like lard, but a lot harder. Also in the tank itself is what looks like sold lard/congealed chip fat, so I assume thats what the PO used ? The metal parts on the tank sender are also rusty, even where it has been submerged in the gloop, so this is not a good sign. The stuff in the pipes took some shi
  11. Cant comment on completely dead batteries, but I have three of the Lidl chargers, and they have all packed up within the guarantee period. Couldnt be bothered to claim on them, but will not buy another cheap one. However, they have yielded up some nice medium duty insulated crocodile clips on shotgun leads !
  12. Not with any of the Tdi engines, but 20 odd years ago tried some non genuine nozzles in a Turbo Diesel (19J) and like you, it seemed no different than the old ones. Gave up with that and bought a set of genuine CAV exchange ones, and the difference was night and day. Lesson learned !
  13. Hayter do not exist any more, except by name, so for the mower itself you are effectively stuck with Bripart type non genuine parts sadly. B&S are no problem, and there is a dealer not far from me, if you get stuck. I can post them to you. They know how to charge though. There will not be any tariff..................... I do remember having many problem with non genuine point sets, so if it still has them and you want to change, buy genuine.
  14. Probably been covered many times before, but I cant find anything offhand .......... Whats the consensus about using silicone hose over rubber, for heater hoses and the like ? I have never used them myself, but I gather they are "better", but from what I can find they become floppy when hot, come in shiny carpy colours for the bling enthused, and do not grip hosetails as well as rubber, and can blow off under pressure. As they become floppy, do they then kink if the radius is not so gentle ? Do they form a "set" after a few heating cycles ? Anyone had them "blow off" (
  15. Thats a Hayter 21, or possibly an Osprey. If you look at the engine cowling just above the spark plug, or possibly behind the air filter, you will find stamped (not a sticker) "Model" "Type" and "Code" The first two digits of the code number tell you the year of engine manufacture, which will date the machine if it still has its original engine. It looks like it has. The first two digits of Model tell you the engine capacity in Cubic inches, but they were (and still are I believe) rated in old fashioned Horsepower. You will have to quote this number for any spare parts for the engi
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