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smallfry

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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About smallfry

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    Gillingham Kent

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  1. I managed 8 years of Land Rover free life …...……………. No items in the kitchen, or the dining room, or the loft, or the spare bedroom, or the garden, or the garage. Nothing in a friends stable and barn. No rented lock up to pay for. Back to square one now, except for the rented lock up. So be careful !
  2. If the vehicle is not used much, you may have been "Moused"
  3. That will be the right configuration physically but will be an electronic shift (I think ?) 4HP22, which is not really up to a 4.6 Engine will be a 4.0, unless it has been changed, which again will be all electronic, and will require aftermarket engine management. You could convert to distributor ignition, and an earlier injection system, but IMO this is a step in the wrong direction.
  4. The P38 gearbox is electronic shift. Assume you know that ? Yes it can be made to fit, but you will need the tail housing from a RRC, Disco 1 or 2 V8 Auto. Then, you either have to cut the existing shaft, drill and tap the centre and fit the RRC/Disco extension shaft, OR strip the gearbox and swap the output shaft from the same. Its fairly simple, but pictures will explain better, but unfortunately I do not have any.
  5. The engine mounts on the chassis are different and will need to be changed for the V8 90/110/Disco/RR classic type. Other than that, its just a different recipe of standard parts. You don't NEED an LT85. They also came with LT77, LT77S, and R380 boxes. Must be the V8 type to get the right bellhousing, and all will bolt up to your transfer box. Check the gearbox output splines though, as this is a common problem. You may find your existing transfer box ratio a bit low though, but it depends on what wheels and tyres you have fitted. With this setup, it will all fit your new chassis mounts and use standard exhausts etc.
  6. The V8 radiator is more than a match for a diesel engine. They do not produce as much heat as a petrol. Wouldn't it be easier to mount an intercooler in front of that ? There are two support brackets welded to the top of the front crossmember on the 4cyl and V8 models, which you will need to remove in order to fit the TD5 cooling pack. I believe the TD5 assy will be too tall with them in place, and the support grommets are fitted to holes in the crossmember in place of the brackets IIRC
  7. As Lo-fi has suggested, it is probably porous. They do tend to go crusty, and the dead giveaway is when there are white deposits and dampness around the hose neck. It affects the mating face too, which must be clean aluminium for it to seal properly. New ones are hard to find, but Real Steel used to do a replacement to fit carburettor models, but not much help to you I guess, given your location
  8. Firstly I would try connecting the blower wires directly to the/a battery to see if the motor is OK, and if it is, then start looking at the wiring and controls plus the earth Often with these motors one of the brushes wears out quicker than the others, leaving a poor connection and poor performance. IIRC the Defender motor has three brushes. Checking with a multimeter does not always reveal this fault.
  9. I can see a problem here...…...….. You CAN have a height indication which may well be the maximum vertical height BUT if you have a high vehicle and then go up a ramp, the vehicle will become higher in the middle, like a breakover angle but in reverse if you see what I mean, which may then involve it hitting the ceiling. This is often a problem for vans under low bridges an multi storeys. At risk of abuse, but stating the obvious, as the driver of a higher vehicle, your attention was drawn to the fact that there was little headroom to spare, and you should have exercised some caution. Sorry, but that's how I see it. Would you do the same at width barriers and then try to blame someone else if you scraped the side ? If you trip on the pavement, is it someone elses liability, or should you have been looking where you are going ? etc etc Also, if you claim, you might find your vehicle written off, unless it has a high agreed value. Would possibly be better to buy a good roof and swap it and put it down to experience.
  10. If you go the 5 speed route, you will need the early type 90/110 4 cylinder OR Defender 200Tdi gearbox, and NOT a 300 Tdi Defender type or any Disco box, as the bellhousing and gearbox input shaft are WAY too long. However, you will still need the adaptor ring. If you use a V8 5 speed which of course will bolt straight up to the engine, the whole assembly will be too long for an 88 to have a sensible length rear propshaft, unless you move the engine forward and use a Defender type front end (bonnet/hood ? and front panel) You can of course convert any of these boxes with appropriate parts which are easily available here in the UK, but it all adds to the hassle and expense.
  11. I think we had all sit on the fence for this one !
  12. Hi Aaron It was once a common conversion, but I do not think anyone sells either a kit or just the adaptor nowadays. Used to be Milner conversions and Phillips IIRC. The kit comprised of the adaptor ring, a crankshaft spigot bearing flange, engine mounts, and an oil filter housing which changed the position of the filter so it did not hit the front axle. You will also need to get a Range Rover type flywheel (thick) rather than a car one, and get it redrilled for the series clutch cover. Ebay UK probably your best bet, provided the seller is prepared to sent it to you. Its a good conversion for a series, especially an EFI, as you will get better fuel consumption than either standard petrol or diesel engines
  13. Engine earth strap ? Loose or corroded connection ? If there even is one ? Most likely solenoid on top of starter if its not a poor connection.
  14. Noooooo ! None of the above. All those silicone RTV type sealers are meant to be used on their own for irregular surfaces, oil pans and the like, and also only to properly prepared and degreased surfaces, and as for blue Hylomar, the sign of the bodge, hopeless ! Wellseal is what you want. Best sealer ever, and non hardening EVER. Either as a gasket dressing, or on its own to perfectly fitting machined surfaces .Apply with a brush, let it dry for a bit, and the gasket will stay where its put, and it NEVER leaks, unless you have displaced the gasket somehow. Not on head gaskets though.
  15. Couldn't agree more. To me, JLR have become another prestige throwaway car maker.
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