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smallfry

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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About smallfry

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    Gillingham Kent

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  1. I am sad to say I agree. The vehicle itself is fine, to drive I really like it, but the BMW TD4 engine is somewhat, erm, disappointing
  2. Looks like a Freelander 1...………………………..
  3. I use copper grease too, but I notice that LUK sell a special grease for the purpose. Don't know what it is though.
  4. I would go for the crank damper. My Freelander had the same problem, and I thought it was the big ends. With mine, you could see wher it was starting to wear into the timing case. You could try putting a work lamp near it at night, and see it you can see any "fairy dust" metallic particles coming off. Do NOT be tempted to run it for long like this, and under no circumstances try to lock the thing solid by welding, there is a high chance of snapping the crankshaft. Bolt is very tight. I made up a tool twenty odd years ago to hold it still, which I still have.
  5. I have had a couple of chassis from Designa Chassis, and both have been absolutely fine, as were the deviations from standard that I specified, one of which being a 90 chassis but with a series rear half, but to fit a 90 rear body. One thing that bothers me with replacement chassis nowadays are the rules, which amongst other things states that a new or replacement chassis MUST be of the same specification. From the late seventies /early eighties the chassis has been made with two "C" sections welded together, so strictly speaking, the four sides welded at the corners method of construction does not comply. I wonder if that would bring a problem if some jobsworth inspector wanted to be really pedantic ?
  6. And an autobox ……………………...
  7. Definitely not an SD1...…………… at least not any sort of UK spec one. Sherpa ambulance ?
  8. Buy her a Suzuki Jimny and keep the 110 for yourself.
  9. All the 4 litres used bigger crank journals, so the nearest block you will get is the late serpentine 3.9,which has the crossdrill type bearing caps and cylinder block webs, but is not actually drilled. It could be though. Crank sensor could also be grafted on. Don't know if anyone does some sort or main bearing spacers though. Bit of a bodge though.
  10. Oil in the intake system is more likely to be from the engine breather than the turbo seals, so I think that's a red herring. I wouldn't think its the timing belt, as if it has slipped/jumped, I would think the engine would be fooked mechanically by now. Does the engine sound different ? What colour is the smoke, or does it alter ? As has been suggested, look at the boost diaphragm, but a split or hole may be hard too see. Beware of this fault though, and you may (or may not) like to try this as a test...….. What happens is, if the engine idles for a long time (off boost) and the diaphragm leaks, fuel from inside the injection pump gradually fills up the pipe that runs from the top of the pump to the turbo inlet housing. Then, when it reaches the top, it is sucked onto the turbo fan and vapourised, causing the engine to run away with itself with insane amounts of white smoke, and very loud diesel knock. the engine cannot be turned off with the key, and must be stalled with the clutch/gearbox, otherwise it will blow up. The old 19j engine suffered with this a lot, and as its essentially the same setup, but with a different pump, its worth a look. It could also be an injector. Unlikely on these, but don't rule it out. Good luck
  11. I too have a disdain for the use of the word "cool", and also view faux rust with contempt, you just cant beat genuine rust !
  12. Bit late on all this but...……….having done this conversion several times, but using the original gearbox. As far as I remember, its been a long time The original kit would have comprised of the adaptor plate, a crankshaft spigot adaptor, and a set of engine mounts to bolt to the engine. You had to have the thick 4x4 V8 flywheel redrilled to suit a series clutch, but you will have to use a Defender clutch as the splines are different. Will all bolt up to your gearbox. If you used the thin SD1 type flywheel, you needed a modified release bearing sleeve also. I always used the series radiator with an electric fan in front with no problems ever...……..even towing For exhausts, use the twin outlet early RR 3.5 or Disco iron manifolds, with early (1986ish) downpipes, y piece, and muffler. Haveto make some exhaust mounts though Tailpipe you are on your own ! Cannot use any typeV8 bellhousing, all too long, unles you start moving crossmembers, or/and fitting Defender front ends.
  13. 2004 model will only have one low pressure pump in the RH rear wheelarch. The high pressure pump is on the engine. You need to know whether its the low or high pressure side which is at fault . If its the low pressure fault, it is most likely the fuel pump at fault. DONT waste money on ANY non genuine item. It might get you going, but you will be wanting another one quite soon. If its a high pressure fault, the nightmare begins...……………………………... Most mechanics are unable to diagnose properly, and end up wasting LOTS of your money on unnecessary parts. You have managed 86k without it playing up ???? 😲 You have much to learn Grasshopper.
  14. For many years I worked in Parts Departments, and this I one of MANY things that annoy me nowadays. No one seems to have much product knowledge. Most of them will not even look without the registration number, and even then, you STILL get the wrong items
  15. Yes, you just remove the big crankshaft bolt and the pulley assembly will pull off.
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