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smallfry

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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smallfry last won the day on May 1

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About smallfry

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    Gillingham Kent

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  1. Cracked while launching......? Cracked while installing more like ! Quite right. You are putting the standard one back then ? We will all approve of that, Im sure 😆
  2. Is that fuel cooler water "cooled" ? If it is, I would not run petrol through it. Its not going to explode into a ball of fire, but could cause vapour lock problems ?
  3. What Bowie said............ Assuming the vehicle was running normally before the fault, and earths have been checked. Try a feed direct from the battery to positive side of ignition coil. If this doesnt work it is probably the coil or the ignition module. If it does work, there is either a bad connection somewhere, faulty ballast resistor/cable or ignition switch
  4. I have never found any replacement (non genuine LR OLD stock) doors to be much good. The curved shoulder is always not right for various reasons, the frame itself is generally thinner, and the quality of the alloy skin is poor. The skin material is always too soft. If you thump an OLD original door, you will must likely hurt your knuckles (same with all the other body panels) but if you try it with a new replacement, it will dent easily. Also the replacements alloy will rot MUCH quicker than the original. Best bet by far is to try and source some good condition old doors or poss
  5. I suggest that you apply heat to what is left of the bolt, rather than the caliper. Maybe drill a hole in a piece of steel sheet to slip over the bolt as a heat shield, and apply blowtorch or whatever.
  6. I have to go near there on Tuesday as it happens. Welcome to the cuppa, but you're not having any of me chocolate Hobnobs
  7. Yes you do. Also need to change the output shaft OR cut it off, drill a hole in the end, tap it, then buy and adaptor shaft and bolt.
  8. I couldnt afford it even if the decimal point was moved two places to the left. However, no doubt it will be sold at that.
  9. Would be easier to show you rather than describe it. But the primary purpose of the jig is to create engine adaptor plates to suit the ZF gearbox, and then, if needed, to reverse engineer and alter a bellhousing.
  10. Before the current week/year code (which not all tyres carry) there was a code with a sideways triangle next to it, but I dont know how far that went back. I'm sure tinternet can supply the info ?
  11. I would beg to differ on that. Over the years I have seen the result of a couple of LRs tail ended by trucks, with the body just wiped off. Can only say I am very pleased that I was not in them !
  12. The only problem with the Jap engines, is bottom end torque. I am doing a 1UZ slowly (only been six years so far) and even that has less bottom end torque than a 4.0 Rover V8 (on paper) depending on which dyno readout you look at. Might turn out to be disappointing, but I like the quality and smoothness of it. I had a Datsun 240Z years ago (RIP KBM180N) and the engine was marvellous, high revving, smooth and powerful, but would be unsuitable for a LR IMO if you wanted to tow, or drive "normally" . On the other hand the Jag straight sixes seem to have bags of bottom end torque, are ha
  13. They are indeed. ISTR that the engine is quite long too. There is a photo of the engine with the 4HP24 gearbox which will give you an idea of the length https://motor-car.net/innovation/engines/1302-jaguar-engines/16207-jaguar-aj6-engine
  14. Another vote for Henry (or George) Only thing with NOT using a bag, is that it will just spread fine dust unless you stand it outside. With Karcher and Titan the bags are 'kin expensive. Have also got a Titan which was cheap. It sucks up water great and can blow too, which is handy, but I dont use it for dirt now. I find the paper bags better for workshop and building tasks, as the filtration on the cloth bags is better, so they block up too quickly for this type of use. Great for househusband duties indoors though !
  15. The easy solution for the gearbox rotation would be to cut out the mating face from the Jag bellhousing then "turn" it in the correct position and weld it. Hard to visualise without pictures, but fairly cheap and easy I am doing the same thing for my Lexus conversion. Its turned about five degreesish, but I have made up a jig, so I could put the Jag bellhousing on it and tell you by exactly how much. This would keep the engine in its correct position.
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