smallfry
-
Posts
1,720 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by smallfry
-
-
Not many US based members on here, so I doubt if you will get any recommendations.
Probably best to use a domestic motor, if you can find something that fits the bill, or a BMW or Mercedes unit. Lots of info and conversion hardware available for them.
-
Perhaps he mislaid his original and got a replacement, and gave you the original which he had found.
In these cases if the original is rediscovered, you are supposed to destroy it.
I had exactly the same thing when I bought my van from a mate nine years ago, they did contact him to confirm he had sold it to me, but ISTR it took a month or so.
Hopefully it should be OK.
-
On 3/30/2024 at 2:01 PM, Anderzander said:
That lead to a bit of a Diesel adventure.
The new lift pump had come, so I thought ‘before it gets dark, I’ll turn the fuel tap off and swap it out’.
Alas it turned out the on/off on the fuel tap/bowl doesn’t actually turn the fuel off - once I’d released the pipe from the lift pump it was pouring out.
Tried to fix it back in - but the nut was really badly rounded, particularly in the tightening direction - so I couldn’t get it back in.
I stuck a bowl under it - but the diesel was being diverted by all the nooks and crannies and so less than 10% was going in the bowl.
Cue me running round like an idiot, everything I tried to stop it wasn’t working. Pliers, Spanner’s, different bowls, bungs, seals, fittings, funnels - nothing worked.
The floor, my jeans, my coat, my glasses, all covered.
I found a bag of rubber pipes I hoped I could push over the fitting - none fit - so out with heat gun, all the while diesel pouring onto the gravel. It heated it up though and got it soft enough to push on … and finally I had it filling up a container without dripping all over the floor at the same time.
The next job was finding enough containers - as I realised the kind previous owner had made sure the tank was full.
Every container I picked up seemed to water, or waste oil in it, but after more anxiety and running I did find enough - and the photo represents the end moment … and much fuel rescued As I could and it all put away .. and relax.
Nothing to see here. All this seems the normal way that jobs go ! Despite how much you try to forward think it.
In my experience, tractor restoration usually means steam clean it. Replace or repair any tinwork, and paint.
-
2
-
-
1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:
So clearly not really a worry....
It would worry me if I were using it in the same way as a Defender is intended for.
Disco 2 was targeted at a different customer and a different usage. The turrets are different too, and also the Disco has a body stiffness that the Defender does not have.
-
In case anyone is at all interested, I have checked the chassis and vehicles we have here .........
The 90/110s and Defenders have the fillets front and rear
RRCs and Disco 1s only have one at the rear
Disco 2s have no fillets at all !
-
1
-
-
On 1/25/2024 at 7:39 AM, Ed Poore said:
Slight tangent but how does the P38 box affect turning with the tyres? Does it sit inside the wheel arc so to speak so doesn't affect it?
Just curious because a 1UZ with factory aircon etc., is very tight to a standard 4 bolt setup.
Been off the air for a couple of weeks .........
The 1UZ aircon compressor is on the passenger side (RHD) its the alternator that might foul the steering box, but it will clear if you get the engine high enough. Easy enough to relocate the alternator to where the aircon compressor was, but getting the belt to work is a bit more difficult.
I guess you want to keep the aircon ?
-
Could be collected with the tractor. That would make a great road trip, and unlikely to fall foul of the Welsh 20 mph limits !
-
2
-
1
-
-
After 20 to 30 years, the PVC insulation will have degraded and become brittle with the heat. When you bend it , it might crack, so doing it all again might be a good idea.
-
The other day I had a G clamp frame snap. Have used it for years, and I never strain them by using any extension on the T bar. I also put it down to the temperature. Not an expensive one, so was probably cast iron rather than steel. Who know ?
A few weeks ago I watched half of a program about ships disappearing in the late 19th, early 20th century in cold climates. They attributed this to failure of the steel plates or rivets. Not high tensile obviously, but interesting none the less.
-
I remembered that Defenders have this fillet, I guess intended for more heavy duty use. Have a couple of Discos and RRC in the yard. Will have a look at them tomorrow, just out of interest.
-
23 hours ago, SteveG said:
Blackbird Industries Ltd P38 steering kit information pack.pdf 1.03 MB · 11 downloads
Blackbird fitting instructions. Not sure I understand the concern on removing and infill of the small corner section of the spring mount, but maybe I misunderstand you.
its not the infill as such, its the removal of the fillet that braces the spring pan to the top of the chassis, especially as it is the larger of the two. I would say this is structural, and a high stress area in hard use.
-
What do you do about the panhard rod mounting ?
I don't like the idea of cutting away the spring pan fillet.
-
All a bit extreme for popping down to Fortnum & Masons, what what ?
I dont go off roading for the sake of it, but a couple of three ton strops, a couple of two ton strops. Bow shackles, and a spade. Leather gloves and a couple of Hi Viz vests, Britannia Rescue membership card. And some liquorice allsorts.
-
1
-
-
ZF P38 steering box is way more robust and reliable. Downside is modified steering, which you will be informing your insurance company about ?
-
Remember to inform your insurance company.
-
1
-
-
Borg and Beck are not what the once were. They no longer supply the OE market. Now it it just a brand name trading on a glorious past.
Probably made in a country in the easterly direction.
-
1
-
-
13 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
All Series (I, II & III) have galv capping from the factory. As do early 90/110/127 models. I think they only started painting them when the door handles changed sometime around 1986 +-
I had a 1989 90 in Arran Beige, just before the name change to Defender came about in 1990, this had galv cappings, but were painted in body colour. Maybe they stopped the galv at this point ?
-
As has been said, standard genuine LR springs and Disco 1 rubber donuts on top if you want a bit of lift, and also help with noise.
Shock absorbers make a lot of difference, but there are lots and lots of options, and most aftermarket ones, "standard" replacements, seem to be a one size fits all, so you don't know what the rates are.
-
No faux pas. I think they look "right". Too many people these days are colour coding and trying to make the vehicle look too car like. Been there, done that, cost a lot of money, and will not do it again. Its a utility truck !
-
You are correct. Hot dip galv needs no maintenance, and lasts for many, many years. It will lose its "new" look though, and turn to a pleasing (to me) dull grey.
-
On 1/8/2024 at 7:26 PM, deep said:
On my TEA28, there's a small hole in the lowest part of the hockey stick to stop water accumulating in the exhaust. I still jam a tin can on it (even though it now lives inside, force of habit) and ALWAYS forget when I start it. Quite the projectile...
Have got two Fordson Majors here with the same hole in the hockey stick. On both the engines, a couple of cylinders were full of water, and look like they have been in the sea for years. Seized solid obviously. Mind you, had been standing outside for thirty years. On both the exhaust box had long gone and the hole blocked by all sorts (not liquorice). They both had the exhaust originally covered with a tin can.
Would have better if covered by a ceramic mug !
-
1
-
-
The only real disadvantage of a downswept exhaust, is that in certain circumstances, like drought or the height of summer, it is possible for a stray spark to ignite crops like wheat, barley and oats etc, dry grass, straw and cut hay. Which is why they generally point upwards.
Overall though, much better because you do not get your engine full of rainwater if left standing for long periods.
-
On 1/5/2024 at 6:02 PM, landroversforever said:
Worth a look… slight grey area if you’re not ‘farming’, but you might find that planning isn’t needed for an agricultural building!
I think you will need planning, unless it is not fixed to the floor like those towable horse shelters on skids. If you are on an ANOB or near an SSSI, it can be a real problem.
As we have found out with building a stable, or rather not..........
-
No photos I'm afraid as before the advent of the digital camera, but a Focke Wulf 190 engine and propeller from Nogent le Rotrou in France back to UK
Junkers Ju88 engine and wreckage, plus a few others from Aviation museum days.
-
3
-
Cutting a galvanised chassis
in International Forum
Posted
Of course it could be cut off and replaced, but obviously the galv will be compromised. Not that much of a problem though, IMO. Would need to grind the galv away from edges before welding though, and be very wary of the fumes.
Can you not try to straighten it with some inventive use of nuts, bolts, and studding, or jacking it somehow ? Which has got to be preferable to cutting and welding, if it can be done. NO HAMMERING though.